So what actually destroys the motor?
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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So what actually destroys the motor? We all know that it is a good idea to forge the bottom end when going FI. I am new to turbos/sc and was curious what actually makes it dangerous to the stock motor? is it the HP/TQ numbers? or does it have to do with knock and not having a high enough octane fuel? I hope my question makes sense. I am trying to learn all the ins and outs of FI for my future build.
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 111
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so its more detonation than anything? knowing that its not the hp levels makes me more motivated to go FI. My biggest concern is safety so I will be getting a professional tune and not cheap out when i do the build in the future. thanks for the help
The stock piston ringlands seem to be the most susceptible to failure at high horsepower levels. It might not even be misfires but rather cylinder pressure once you start hitting high torque numbers. I'm not sure even the safest tune can save a stock motor making more than ~550-600 rwtq. Before too long, the pressure is just going to crank a ringland.
The stock piston ringlands seem to be the most susceptible to failure at high horsepower levels. It might not even be misfires but rather cylinder pressure once you start hitting high torque numbers. I'm not sure even the safest tune can save a stock motor making more than ~550-600 rwtq. Before too long, the pressure is just going to crank a ringland.
all of the above and pushing the block to far. At some point cylinder walls and other components flex, resonate, change shape. The iron blocks seem able to handle it to a higher level. If you want to build a monster use a aftermarket block as the foundation.
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aluminum block have been pushed past the 1k hp plenty of times (forged of coarse)
and then past these levels its not the block(aluminum or iron) that becomes a problem, its trying to keep the heads from pushing water and thats when you need 6 bolt heads and block
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Also too many rpm's. On any LS motor alot people try rod bolts. My opinion they are a waste of money. We had a c-5 with 547 rwhp we sold with over 138k miles na new owner raced everyweekend and spraying no problems with over 180 k miles. And I now have 527 rwhp with 80 k miles of boost.
For many of the folks that drag race or road race, it is the oiling system. the factory wet sump oiling system is great for a street car, but at high HP levels in a race application, the dry sump is the only option. The other items mentioned above are also common failure points. Certainly a really good tune is critical. Lifting heads will usually not result in losing your engine though, just some time to replace parts and retune.
i highly doubt this
aluminum block have been pushed past the 1k hp plenty of times (forged of coarse)
and then past these levels its not the block(aluminum or iron) that becomes a problem, its trying to keep the heads from pushing water and thats when you need 6 bolt heads and block
aluminum block have been pushed past the 1k hp plenty of times (forged of coarse)
and then past these levels its not the block(aluminum or iron) that becomes a problem, its trying to keep the heads from pushing water and thats when you need 6 bolt heads and block
... I need to go pick up a forged aluminum block I knew I was forgetting something.. if your pushing water you need to o-ring the block.. if your lifting the heads you need to get 6 bolt heads/block serious? when i said forged i meant the rotating assembly not the block, i guess i need to go through and explain things thoroughly for ls1tech as some ppl are to slow to catch on
it was sarcasm pal.. even with forged rotating assemblies the sleeves in an aluminum block still have their limits.. I think you need to go through and keep reading and learning before making retarded posts
, perhaps i hurt your feelings? maybe you should take a look at this before we continue http://www.time4learning.com/reading...prehension.htm
because obliviously you cant read, i never stated anything about stock sleeves and how much there good for, what i stated was that you will push water/lift heads before you have a problems with the block
now as far as the sleeves go ive seen some crack at very low hp(400-500) and some take as much as 1200 without a problem, so i believe its more of a tuning issue than anything else
and just a lil bit more info on the aluminum block subject there is erl sleeved blocks that are making close to 2k hp, so once aging i will say i doubt it is a problem having a aluminum block
now im sure your feeling are going to be hurt once aging so go ahead and pm if you would like to talk out of your *** some more
so with your logic I should get 6 bolt heads and block if I'm pushing water and o-ring the block if I'm lifting my heads.. awesome I think I understand now.. thank you for the clarification 
Please continue to be my humor for today's morning.. cheers
Please continue to be my humor for today's morning.. cheers
A lean condition is the worst thing for a stock LS1 with boost. Higher boost pressures approaching 1 bar also spell trouble for the rods and bearings at rpm higher than 6500 RPM. My car is tuned to where when the boost comes on the AFR dives to 10.9-11.0 consistently every time. Even then I run 1-2 gallons of 110 with a full tank of 93 and 100% M1 Methanol in my boost cooler reservoir. I plan on putting a LQ4 or LS2 in the car once the motor goes, but I am shooting for high 9's before that happens hopefully.
