Too much lift for FI?
05-31-2011, 09:49 PM
#1
Too much lift for FI? Thunder Racing TRAK Cam 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA.
Bought a Comp 224/224 .581/.581 114 cam for my build~365LS2. Started it up last week and I don't like it, sounds like a diesel.
Any downfalls to the intake lift other than springs wearing out sooner?
Is this cam going to use a lot more fuel over the 224/224?
Any recommendations for a different cam? 365ci, T76GTS (looking to max it out), 3" downpipe (kind of small), LS6 intake, unported LS6 Heads, Stock ported TB. It has A/C and will be driven everyday when weather allows it.
Bought a Comp 224/224 .581/.581 114 cam for my build~365LS2. Started it up last week and I don't like it, sounds like a diesel.
Any downfalls to the intake lift other than springs wearing out sooner?
Is this cam going to use a lot more fuel over the 224/224?
Any recommendations for a different cam? 365ci, T76GTS (looking to max it out), 3" downpipe (kind of small), LS6 intake, unported LS6 Heads, Stock ported TB. It has A/C and will be driven everyday when weather allows it.
Last edited by SStolen; 05-31-2011 at 10:00 PM.
06-02-2011, 01:46 AM
#6
I don't see how you could have too much lift for FI??? Now too much lift for the springs you have I can see but not too much for FI. I would also think that even with the small amount of overlap that cam produces that the tight lsa would be conducive to making more power with FI. Now if you want a car that shifts at 7200 then keep the lsa tight with boost, but if it's going to be shifted at 6500 and drives on the street then I'd go with at least a 114. Honestly the cam you had is a great boost cam, I have an almost identical besides mine is reverse pattern 227/224 588/578 114 by TR. TR has proven grinds so I still wouldn't say it's a bad cam just not perfect for this combo.
pardon me I realized you are running the TRAK and not the CheatR cam, as I thought you were. Yea that cam isn't that good of a cam for your combo. I'd honestly look into the cam I have with a little more duration and lift and/or the CheatR cam.
pardon me I realized you are running the TRAK and not the CheatR cam, as I thought you were. Yea that cam isn't that good of a cam for your combo. I'd honestly look into the cam I have with a little more duration and lift and/or the CheatR cam.
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06-05-2011, 06:05 PM
#13
Just to get things straight, I currently have the 224/224. I was thinking of going to the TRAK cam.
After hearing my car with the 224/224, I realize that cams seem a lot smaller in turbo applications than they do in a N/A set-up. Thats why I was thinking of going bigger.
365LS2, PTE Billet T76GTS, stock LS6 heads, LS6 intake, stock ported TB, 3" downpipe with 3in cutout 5ft from turbo. Street car that will see the track a few times a year. I want something that will make power, get decent mpg and not rattle my teeth going to the grocery store. And I'm not so sure a single pattern duration is the best thing anymore either especially with my power goal in mind. It will probably take 22-24psi to hit 850rwhp, through a 3" DP.
After hearing my car with the 224/224, I realize that cams seem a lot smaller in turbo applications than they do in a N/A set-up. Thats why I was thinking of going bigger.
365LS2, PTE Billet T76GTS, stock LS6 heads, LS6 intake, stock ported TB, 3" downpipe with 3in cutout 5ft from turbo. Street car that will see the track a few times a year. I want something that will make power, get decent mpg and not rattle my teeth going to the grocery store. And I'm not so sure a single pattern duration is the best thing anymore either especially with my power goal in mind. It will probably take 22-24psi to hit 850rwhp, through a 3" DP.
06-11-2011, 09:40 AM
#14
Turbos can make power with just about any cam and seen arguments and not bad overall results with reg split,reverse split, normal split and with various LSAs and lifts.
But and here's the but..FI is hard on springs and if you push the lift high like NA you could float valves and you will likely be changing out springs yearly.
I was running lingenfelter GT7 cam last few years with my 408 TT setup. Nice ,east to tune, lift was around 590 with 1.8 rockers. Lsa is high like 120 something duration have to look it up again but was normal split like 210/230 type of thing.
It was used in lots of their turbo builds. Now they recommend ls9 instead but it requires conversion stuff to work in older ls engines like ls2 front cover,etc. GT7 bolted right in.
I was converting my new ls3 anyway and there are some advantages to cam sensor in front of motor so went to ls9 cam this time around at same time.It has very similar specs to the GT7. I am thinking this time to go to 1.7 again, drop lift to 560 range ,the cam has high lsa in the 120s and duration pretty sure is again split like the gt7 like 210/230. I expet a super easy to tune cam, no low end surge! I HATE HATE HATE low end surge! It won't be blowing the boost out the cylinders and it will have no lope. I like lope in old 71 big block chevelles but not as much in my modern cars.
And am running 8019 springs good for over 600 lift but should have zero problem with valve float and shouldn't have to change springs more than likely every 3 or 4 years or so.
Will check them of course here and there.
Changing springs on the f body with heads in the car is not fun to me.
So would stay under 600 lift. Would get a good spring with headroom like patriot dual or whatever that are rated to 650. Would stick with 1.7 rockers. And a cam in the 560 range with high lsa well over 115 and reasonable duration maybe even normal split would suit you fine if you want what I did above.
You can ruin a street car really quickly with the wrong cam choice. Low speed surge can make a car horrible horrible to drive. Thats one negative to going big cam na. Remember the turbo makes the power mostly. You can make good power with a stock cam and boost.
But and here's the but..FI is hard on springs and if you push the lift high like NA you could float valves and you will likely be changing out springs yearly.
I was running lingenfelter GT7 cam last few years with my 408 TT setup. Nice ,east to tune, lift was around 590 with 1.8 rockers. Lsa is high like 120 something duration have to look it up again but was normal split like 210/230 type of thing.
It was used in lots of their turbo builds. Now they recommend ls9 instead but it requires conversion stuff to work in older ls engines like ls2 front cover,etc. GT7 bolted right in.
I was converting my new ls3 anyway and there are some advantages to cam sensor in front of motor so went to ls9 cam this time around at same time.It has very similar specs to the GT7. I am thinking this time to go to 1.7 again, drop lift to 560 range ,the cam has high lsa in the 120s and duration pretty sure is again split like the gt7 like 210/230. I expet a super easy to tune cam, no low end surge! I HATE HATE HATE low end surge! It won't be blowing the boost out the cylinders and it will have no lope. I like lope in old 71 big block chevelles but not as much in my modern cars.
And am running 8019 springs good for over 600 lift but should have zero problem with valve float and shouldn't have to change springs more than likely every 3 or 4 years or so.
Will check them of course here and there.
Changing springs on the f body with heads in the car is not fun to me.
So would stay under 600 lift. Would get a good spring with headroom like patriot dual or whatever that are rated to 650. Would stick with 1.7 rockers. And a cam in the 560 range with high lsa well over 115 and reasonable duration maybe even normal split would suit you fine if you want what I did above.
You can ruin a street car really quickly with the wrong cam choice. Low speed surge can make a car horrible horrible to drive. Thats one negative to going big cam na. Remember the turbo makes the power mostly. You can make good power with a stock cam and boost.
06-11-2011, 08:42 PM
#16
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A 365ci and that 76mm its going to spool fast. And you will choke it quick. Stick with the cam u have. Not worth changing it out. But if you want lope. Throw a ms3 in it who cares
