What is the best flowing air filter for max boost?
07-23-2011, 08:20 PM
#23
I'm interested in this as well. I have a shitty foam filter on it now and I'm not sure its filtering as well as I need. I need one of the shorter "Mushroom" style filters to make it fit with my intake. I'm not really sure what brand is going to be my best bet on CFM vs. size vs filtering ability. Any advice?
07-23-2011, 09:02 PM
#24
Foam filters are junk (but better than nothing). If you want the best cfm just put the largest foam filter you can find on. But if you want something that will actually filter dirt and dust, then you need a K&N. The larger the better for CFM.
07-24-2011, 02:33 AM
#27
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The Amsoil EaA dry element filters are good.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx
Like others have said the bigger the better.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx
Like others have said the bigger the better.
07-24-2011, 03:50 PM
#31
Mine has a inner and outter cage on it to keep it in place. I need one of those "mushroom" style to fit though. I have a huge K&N catalog from SEMA I need to go through and match mine up. I'll be putting the car down next week anyways for some other parts so I figure I mine as well figure this out now too.
07-25-2011, 04:40 AM
#32
This, the guys in the diesel world have the big filters figured out. Hell the 12v cummins guys swear by the BFF mod. If you cant figure out what BFF stands for go on a diesel site and ask. They use the biggest over the road paper filter they can fit the big huge canister style filters. I think amsoil makes some too even.
07-25-2011, 08:03 PM
#34
This, the guys in the diesel world have the big filters figured out. Hell the 12v cummins guys swear by the BFF mod. If you cant figure out what BFF stands for go on a diesel site and ask. They use the biggest over the road paper filter they can fit the big huge canister style filters. I think amsoil makes some too even.
04-09-2012, 08:47 AM
#37
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For thoughs of you that say foam filters are junk and foam filters won't filter anything. Foam filters MUST be oiled to work. Foam filters will break down and should be replaced annually. How many dirt bikes have pleated cotton filters? Virtually none! Why because they flow horrible with a little dirt on them and they DON'T catch small particles. When a K&N filter gets a little dirty it flows horrible, filters should be flow tested slightly dirty because that ****** is only completely clean once, when you take it out of the box. If you want practice replacing the topend on a dirtbike or quad clamp a K&N on the carb without an air box or outer wear and take it to the sand dunes. A foam filter has cells like a maze of caves, good foam filters have multiple densities of foam to trap the big stuff first then the smaller particles which get stuck to the oil (which is some of the stickest stuff I've ever had on my hands), not trapped by the size of the holes in a dry element.
I've ran Twin Air and Uni-Filter foam filters for 20 years on Quads and dirt bikes and NEVER had dirt related engine damage. I've had the ring lands half wore through to the piston crown, I don't change the topend every X hours, because I feel that every time you pull the cylinder off the a greater chance of getting dirt in the engine or damaging a machined surface.
If you want a filter that flows the best clean, then run with no filter because that clean filter won't stay clean. I think the quality dry filters like AFE are better than oiled cotton filters. dry filters keep catching smaller particles even when dirty, oiled filters don't because the rely on the oil to catch dirt and the oil is less sticky dirty. If you want the best filter call a couple of Trophy Truck shops and get a recommendation. 800+ Hp blasting through silt beds, Hell one of thier filters you could literally run it for life and not clean or replace it and it would never be as dirty as it will be in 30 mins of desert racing.
I've ran Twin Air and Uni-Filter foam filters for 20 years on Quads and dirt bikes and NEVER had dirt related engine damage. I've had the ring lands half wore through to the piston crown, I don't change the topend every X hours, because I feel that every time you pull the cylinder off the a greater chance of getting dirt in the engine or damaging a machined surface.
If you want a filter that flows the best clean, then run with no filter because that clean filter won't stay clean. I think the quality dry filters like AFE are better than oiled cotton filters. dry filters keep catching smaller particles even when dirty, oiled filters don't because the rely on the oil to catch dirt and the oil is less sticky dirty. If you want the best filter call a couple of Trophy Truck shops and get a recommendation. 800+ Hp blasting through silt beds, Hell one of thier filters you could literally run it for life and not clean or replace it and it would never be as dirty as it will be in 30 mins of desert racing.
04-09-2012, 07:06 PM
#38
I partially agree with the above post. But it takes a bit to clog a K&N. I guess if you were in an area of heavy mud near the filter, then sure. But I doubt you'd be running your boosted LSX or LTX in that environment. Mostly just dust is what most of us boosted guys see, and the K&N still flows pretty good with normal amounts of dust.
If your filter doesn't catch much, it will flow good, but not filter well (which is bad for the supercharger/turbocharger and engine). A clogged filter won't flow worth anything as mentioned. I still say your best bet for normal use is a K&N that you clean when it gets dirty (which in most cases does not need more frequently than every few years).
If your filter doesn't catch much, it will flow good, but not filter well (which is bad for the supercharger/turbocharger and engine). A clogged filter won't flow worth anything as mentioned. I still say your best bet for normal use is a K&N that you clean when it gets dirty (which in most cases does not need more frequently than every few years).
04-09-2012, 07:46 PM
#40
Avengeance, looks good, nice fit.
Transitioning the air out of the filter (into the pipe) is very important as well. I fabbed up a 6" to 4" air horn/filter mount. You obviously have to use a K&N with a larger opening (mine's 12" x 8" with a 6" opening):
Since I don't have an LS I had a little more room to play with:
Mine's not a wet weather driver right now. Air is directed to the filter area by a large vent in the front spoiler.
Middle of the lathe job shot:
Ready for install, machined some grooves toward the lip so the filter had something to bite into:
Jim
Transitioning the air out of the filter (into the pipe) is very important as well. I fabbed up a 6" to 4" air horn/filter mount. You obviously have to use a K&N with a larger opening (mine's 12" x 8" with a 6" opening):
Since I don't have an LS I had a little more room to play with:
Mine's not a wet weather driver right now. Air is directed to the filter area by a large vent in the front spoiler.
Middle of the lathe job shot:
Ready for install, machined some grooves toward the lip so the filter had something to bite into:
Jim
Last edited by DeltaT; 04-09-2012 at 07:51 PM.