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need help with pushing water

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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
switch to pure m1
you were late!! I beat you!
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by MaxxMitchell
Exactly, PN 12622033 7-layer MLS 4.100 bore head gaskets. I also TQ my ARP hardware to 80/25. Skinnies has the same gaskets on his little 5.3L engines, with lots of miles and high boost pulls. I have them on stock 5.3s to built 1000+ 408s.

Got any pics on where they are leaking? Block side or head side?
I don't have any pics but it usualy leaks at the back 2 cylinders

Originally Posted by BrianC98Z28
Have you ever had the heads surfaced to make sure they arent warped? I would also look into going to a full meth setup instead of the 50/50 mix. Seems to do a lot better.
I'm going to get the heads surfaced this time and have them checked for any warping. If I switched to pure methanol wouldn't I need a retune?

Originally Posted by LASTLS1
What's the timing and a/f l?
I don't know on the timing but the air fuel stays high high 10s to 11ish

Originally Posted by madmax4499
post a log so they can look.
I don't have any way of logging data on the car I wish I did tho
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BrianC98Z28
you were late!! I beat you!
Ahhh man, now I have to sling poo at you
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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Arp studs + ls9 head gaskets + cooper spray
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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What bore is the current head gaskets you are using and what bore are your combustion chambers shaped for?

Id wager that a gasket built for a 4" bore engine (gasket bore will be larger of course) would fix that. Such as the LS9 everyone is recommending.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Busy Mopper
Arp studs + ls9 head gaskets + cooper spray
I believe this is the route I will go

I'm going to have heads surfaced and checked for warping, ls9 head gaskets with copper spray, and torque my arps back to 80/25. Then ima take it back to the dyno after a good 200 mile break in and check all the a/f ratios and timing.

Firgers crossed...

Do you guys recomend the copper spray with the ls9 gaskets?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 01:44 AM
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We don't use copper spray on them on our builds and so far no coolant pushed, upwards of 30lbs on a friends car with a 88mm.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by skinnies
We don't use copper spray on them on our builds and so far no coolant pushed, upwards of 30lbs on a friends car with a 88mm.
Wow what heads?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 02:22 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by skinnies
We don't use copper spray on them on our builds and so far no coolant pushed, upwards of 30lbs on a friends car with a 88mm.
Currious about this too, what block and what size head studs?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by stock48
Wow what heads?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 03:44 AM
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AFR's
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 10:12 AM
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Never heard of using copper spray on GM gaskets before
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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Yamabond is a cheap option. Every little bit helps.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by skinnies
AFR's
Standard size head studs?

Originally Posted by NicD
Never heard of using copper spray on GM gaskets before
On any lsx head gaskets or do you mean GM production gaskets specifically?
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 12:21 AM
  #35  
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[QUOTE=02anti_vnm;15153105]Standard size head studs? [\QUOTE]yes
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 01:43 PM
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so whats the verdict on copper spray? to use or not to use, that is the question...
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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I wouldn't use spray.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 02anti_vnm
Heres a quick run down of the setup

04+ style ls6 block
Forged 346 rotating assembly
9.0.1 compression
Big bore AFR 225s
ARP 12 point head studs
truck manifold kit
pt76gts on 18 psi
93 pump gas and 50/50 water methanol injection

the car makes amazing power and drives close to stock but every couple of months im changing headgaskets. never leaves a puddle of collant but itll slowly start to brake up while driving. then get worse and worse over time till i cant even drive it and have to change the head gaskets. the head gaskets ive been running are .051 compressed thickness and 4.160 mls gaskets. i used felpro first then cometic and this last time i tried cometic again and sprayed them with the copper gasket stuff in a can. they all last about a couple months and then i have to change them.

should i really be pushing water and popping head gaskets on this setup?

is the aluminum block part of the problem?

im on a limited budget and time frame. i really need to keep the setup the same mainly the block because of money. so what im looking for is a cost effective sollution or trick to try to keep from pushing water with out a retune, block, o-ringing, or any thing out of my small budget

thnaks guys!
Brek,

When we tuned your car, with you wanting to push it as hard as you did on pump gas, it was tuned on straight M1 methanol. No water. If you have added water to it, it has surely leaned the car out and is probably detonating at that boost level. Double check to make sure the heads are flat also when you put it back together. Give me a shout if you have any questions.

Zach
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Heintz Racing
Brek,

When we tuned your car, with you wanting to push it as hard as you did on pump gas, it was tuned on straight M1 methanol. No water. If you have added water to it, it has surely leaned the car out and is probably detonating at that boost level. Double check to make sure the heads are flat also when you put it back together. Give me a shout if you have any questions.

Zach
And that is the answer of why it is happening
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 01:22 PM
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Since its the back cylinders, I am wondering if u have your back to steam ports blocked off.... If so I would start by gettin those back to functional
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