The way i look at it is, with a blower, ill always have hte power all the time. If i pull onto a street and just feel like gettin on it outta know where, i can just punch it and go. i wouldnt have to turn my bottle heater on, purge the system then go WOT... with a blower i can gradually press the pedal down and still have more power to pull me. With n20 you have to be WOT and above 2800-3000 rpms to use it. Then when ya run out, ur back to N/A power...

back to the fuel system. I may have to be walked through this dual pump setup. Im not sure what a Y-block is. Is the dual fuel pump with 2 racetronix fuel pumps something i could assemble myself? Is that a cheaper route than the $575 lonnies setup?

 

For the fuel setup, make your life easier and just buy Lonnie's setup. That's what I did and I'm glad I did.

He modifies your stock fuel sending unit (the plastic bucket in the tank with the pump) to house two Walbro pumps. He also builds you a wiring harness with all the neccessary relays and fuses that are nice and neat, proffesionally done, so all you have to do is plug and play. Literally everything is accounted for. Drop the two new pumps in your tank, plug his harness in, the factory wiring into that, then run his two new power leads and relays up the chassis to the engine bay and connect it to your battery. He includes a Hobbs switch that disables one pump till you hit 4psi of boost, then it activates, giving you two fuel pumps which supplies enough flow for roughly 700 rwhp.

Could you save a $100 or more so doing it yourself, sure, but do a quick search on here of the guys who've tackled doing their own fuel pumps for the first time and have problems and the last thing you want with forced induction is a fuel problem.

You say the cost is a small issue, and that you want to do it over a 6-8 month period, which is what I did in a 3-4 month period, so instead of buying the two pumps and trying to do it yourself, save yourself the headache and hassle and just get Lonnie's twin pump setup.

Me personally, time is more critical than money, especially time working on the car, and I'd dare say buying Lonnie's dual in-tank setup saved me a solid 5-10 hours of working on the car which is huge in my book. I'm not good at wiring (soldering, crimping etc) so it was benneficial to have it already done with shrink wrapping on all the ends and proffesionally wrapped ready for me to install.

I chose a Procharger for the same reason you are. I wanted more power all the time, not just at WOT, so it eliminated nitrous. So it came down to bigger motor, turbo, or procharger. What I liked about the Procharger was I was able to get parts here and there, and still drive my car. I picked up new injectors, installed them, and was still driving my car. Got the new ATI crank pulley that you need for an 8-rib setup, installed it, and kept driving my car. Same thing with converting from dual to the single fan setup. So as I bought those items, I did those installs, and still had my car at my disposable. After I picked up everything I needed, it was a quick weekend project to pull the bumper, fabricate a front mounted intercooler with all the charge pipes, and was able to drive my car come monday. Granted, I was still on the stock fuel pump, but a few weeks later, I dropped the tank and less than a week later I had the twin pumps ready to install.

 

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm

Take a look at the above kit that I put together. I have a lot of options at the bottom of the page, such as deleting the injectors and fuel pump, etc. Bob

 

really good info, thanks man, i guess ill just get the lonnies setup then. $575 is cheaper than a new motor i guess lol. ill probably just stick with twin intercoolers, i really dont wanna cut into my bumper. winter time is just around the corner so id be installing everything at once in the spring time, but my car isnt my daily driver either... hopefully i can start buying parts. only thing that worries me now is my tranny :-/, my clutch pedal is sticknig to the floor which i know how to solve that but here recently when i put it into gear (m6) itll make a slight grinding noise while its in gear... so im hoping just a clutch :-/ stock clutch (im assuming) on 111k miles.... if i need a new tranny, the blower will have to wait.

Thanks for taking the time out to get me that link bob. I still think i could get it done cheaper used though. Id LOVE to buy a brand new kit from you, but id still be spending almost $2000 more than i wanted to... i dunno, i will keep that in mind. You ever get used kits or head units in? Ive seen several complete kits (used) go for $3000 on here, Then id just have to buy the fuel pumps and the injectors so about another grand or so, $4000 and id have a procharger setup minus a tune.

Say I did decide to piece this thing together by gathering used parts instead of buying a complete used kit from some one, would you list the parts im missing that i would need to complete the setup and maybe links to them on your website? Id really appreciate it! I see a bunch of brackets and relocation things and im not sure what i need out of all that stuff on the website.

so the parts that i understand that i need are..

8-rib crank pulley
8-rib blower pulley
ATI Harmonic balancer
D1SC Headunit
Intercoolers + Piping
j-bracket? but not sure which one....

Thanks again!


-

 

Great decision on getting lonnies dual intank set up! No one wants to spend the money, if it can be done cheaper. When I got mine I wondered how he makes any money on it. It is so nice I would have paid more, don't tell lonnie

 

Not a problem, I sell most of the required piece parts at this link.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/98-02-F-Body_c181.htm Bob

 

the parts i listed, is that all i need to install the procharger?

 

You have the basics nailed down, you'll also need a bypass valve. If you would like to see a copy of the installation manual, send me an e-mail at brutespeed@gmail.com Bob

 

email sent

 

with my current setup putting down 383 rwhp with maxed out injectors/bad MAF, What kinda power range am i gonna be looking at with 8psi? assuming ill have twin pumps, 60# injectors and a SD tune? will i hit the 500rwhp mark?

 

8 psi will generally give you an additional 140 rwhp, it's pretty easy with a ProCharger to get over 500 rwhp with a stock bottom end. Bob

 

What about running a little bit higher boost like 9-10psi? Is that still pretty safe?

 

few more questions.

1. my car is a 2000, I dont have the AIR pump, is the relocation of the cruise control required?

2. On the brute speed website, is the Fan/shroud sold separately from each other?

3.As far as an air inlet, can you us a 90* elbow and attach a cone filter to that...

Tryin to get my ducks in a row here.. I think im going to sell my motorcycle, so i should be able to start buying up parts sooner than i thought.

 

It is for some, it isn't for others. All it takes it a bad tank of Premium that isn't up to snuff, and you'll be in for a rebuild.


1. If anything, you can make your own bracket.

2. Yes, check this link out. http://shop.brutespeed.com/ProCharge...metal_c356.htm

3. You can use whatever you can make fit, however: Steel elbows won't stay on the blower, they tend to fall off. Alum elbows are soft enough, they usually will stay tight on the blower if you use a t bolt clamp. Silicone elbows can suck shut, so I tend to stay away from them on the inlet side. Hard plastic works very well on the inlet side, it won't suck shut and it clamps down really well. Bob

 

ok kool, thanks for the help bob, im sure ill have more questions here sometime...lol. ive been doing alot of research so i can make this go as smoothly as possible. Looks like ill be stayin with the 8-9#'s of boost. I guess you could just throw in some octane booster with every tank fill to make sure...lol

what size pullies should i use to make 8-9lbs...?

 

i hope with octane booster you mean mixing in race fuel or running meth injection the other stuff dont do squat. regardless with 8-9 pounds on pump gas it should be fine anyway.

 

lol ya...i was kidding of course...

 

Methanol.......lol

 

A 4.50 pulley on the 8 rib kit usually gets you into the 8-9 psi range. Bob

How much boost the blower can produce depends on many variables.
* Cubic inch. The larger the engine the less boost it will make with a supercharger.
* Headers and exhaust. A better flowing system will produce less boost, requires a smaller pulley to regain the loss in boost. Ultimately though, more power will be gained.
* Camshaft and heads. A camshaft with some overlap will leak out some boost through the valves. Better flowing heads react a lot like a better flowing exhaust system.
* Altitude. Elevation plays a big part in how much boost is produced. Those people living in the higher elevations have to spin the blower harder to see boost.
* Condition of engine. An engine with real good sealing rings will ultimately produce more boost than one with worn rings.
* Rpm. An engine that is spun up higher in the rpm range will normally produce more boost.

 

Thanks again sir! Everyones been a big help