really considering going FI with procharger..
really considering going FI with procharger.. so i kicked around the idea of getting N20, but then i changed my mind, cuz in the long run itd be really expensive. So ive decided to dip my feet into forced induction. Id b picking up a used procharger from someon on here. (When the time comes) I see wuite a few of them for sale on here, so i dont think id have trouble finding one. My specs are in my sig. I kno my cam isnt really made for forced induction, but was told i could use it and that i would probably lose a little boost up top. Ill be buying 60lb injectors, a racetronix fuel pump (or the NX inline pump,) 85mm tb, and probably ditch the MAF and do a speed density tune. im lookin for 500-525 rwhp. i figured i could acheive this with about 5-7psi. Does this sound like a good game plan? do you guys reccommend anything else? id buy all my parts over the winter and get it all pieced together, then assemble it next spring. i figured id have about 4500-5000 when its all said in done assuming i picked up a used procharger for $3000. Thanks for the help. Btw, this will b a street car only, so it wont b abused that often.
Save your money and keep your stock TB. I am still using a stock TB and have gone 9's at 140+mph. Plan on things costing more than you expect with FI it can get expensive really fast. Also Probably gonna have to upgrade your rear at some point. I did make it 1 season with a stock 3.42 geared 10 bolt before I got my MWC fab 9
ya i plan on replacing the rear eventually, just kinda want to get an idea of what its gonna cost me. I dont need anything way extreme. I mainly drive the car on the weekends, and theres is hardly anyone around that street races... so basically itll b me getting on it when i get that go fast urge lol. but as far as what i need, is that basically it? Procahrger kit, fuel injectors, ractronix fuel pump and of course a re-tune. What parts should i be aware of in the kit. I may have a buddy with a head unit he might sell me, and i would need to know what else i would need to complete the kit. Thanks for the help and sry for all the questions 
Well if you buy just a head unit make sure it is reverse rotation. also then you can just buy a Aster braket and build your own FMIC that is by far the cheapest way to go. I am sure you could have a kit to gether for fairly cheap.
other wise looking at a kit you are gonna want an 8 rib kit. It will require getting an ATI balance
other wise looking at a kit you are gonna want an 8 rib kit. It will require getting an ATI balance
ok kool, im not too fond on cutting my bumper up even though it looks badass, what about buying the dual IC's, and how do i go about plumbing it? Does ATI make a plumbing kit that bolts up or what? Someone at work told me about the guy having the Headunit, he had it on his F150, ill find out tonight exaclty what it is, but im not gettin my hopes up on that, so ill probably b leaning more towards the kit. the FMIC is air to air correct?
I pieced mine together over a 2 year span through the classifieds on here. I had to buy the ATI balancer and 8 rib crank pulley new. A lot of people convert the twin IC's to go front mount so keep an eye out for a set with all the piping and surge valve. I got mine for a steal. Cost around $5K when I was done but a lot went to shipping because I'm in Ontario,Canada.
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ok kool, good to know, what did you use for fuel delivery. I see alot of guys using twin fuel pumps, but i dont think ill need that much because im only looking for 5-550rwhp... Whats the purpose of going from twin IC to single front mount? Which is easier to install? Should i go with the P1SC or the D1sc, or does it matter for what im trying to do. Thanks again guys
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The front mounts see lower IAT's and are more efficient. I made 590/563 on 10psi on my stock bottom end motor. I would also suggest looking into a meth kit. Its not essential for your boost level but if you decide to turn it up it'll help a lot. It'll make the combo safer. It should be pretty easy to make 550ish on 8-10psi. I would suggest going with the D1SC to start with...glad I did on that combo.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 165
Likes: 1
From: Uniontown,pa
ok kool, good to know, what did you use for fuel delivery. I see alot of guys using twin fuel pumps, but i dont think ill need that much because im only looking for 5-550rwhp... Whats the purpose of going from twin IC to single front mount? Which is easier to install? Should i go with the P1SC or the D1sc, or does it matter for what im trying to do. Thanks again guys
And by the way listen Blue00ZZleeper he has helped me with a lot of my questions.
awesome info guys. Would a racetronix with a hotwire kit work though? after i go FI, itll b the last thing i do to the car besides maintenance/suspension work for a long time.... (gotta start thinking about buying a house, my apartment sucks, but its cheap lol) so if i can get by with a racetronix fuel pump and save $800 bucks thatd be awesome, i have to buy a clutch too, mine took a ****. im thinking an ls7 w/ a tick MC, or a monster stage 2 with a tick MS. so let me see if i got this right...
Everything i need is..
- ATI balancer
- 8-rib pulley
- D1SC Kit (Reverse Rotation)
- 60# Injectors? (brand?)
- Racetronix fuel pump w/ hotwire?
- Twin intercooler setup w/ plumbing
- Tune
also, what pulleys create what PSI? and would 7psi be enough? If say, 10psi is max on a stock bottom, id like to stay under that, so im not too sure what psi to go with.
I read somewhere that for every pound of boost you have a 6.8% increase in horsepower of what the motor is makin. So if im making 383rwhp, and if i ran 7psi, id gain 47.6% hp increase which would b 565rwhp in theory.
Everything i need is..
- ATI balancer
- 8-rib pulley
- D1SC Kit (Reverse Rotation)
- 60# Injectors? (brand?)
- Racetronix fuel pump w/ hotwire?
- Twin intercooler setup w/ plumbing
- Tune
also, what pulleys create what PSI? and would 7psi be enough? If say, 10psi is max on a stock bottom, id like to stay under that, so im not too sure what psi to go with.
I read somewhere that for every pound of boost you have a 6.8% increase in horsepower of what the motor is makin. So if im making 383rwhp, and if i ran 7psi, id gain 47.6% hp increase which would b 565rwhp in theory.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 165
Likes: 1
From: Uniontown,pa
awesome info guys. Would a racetronix with a hotwire kit work though? after i go FI, itll b the last thing i do to the car besides maintenance/suspension work for a long time.... (gotta start thinking about buying a house, my apartment sucks, but its cheap lol) so if i can get by with a racetronix fuel pump and save $800 bucks thatd be awesome, i have to buy a clutch too, mine took a ****. im thinking an ls7 w/ a tick MC, or a monster stage 2 with a tick MS. so let me see if i got this right...
Everything i need is..
- ATI balancer
- 8-rib pulley
- D1SC Kit (Reverse Rotation)
- 60# Injectors? (brand?)
- Racetronix fuel pump w/ hotwire?
- Twin intercooler setup w/ plumbing
- Tune
also, what pulleys create what PSI? and would 7psi be enough? If say, 10psi is max on a stock bottom, id like to stay under that, so im not too sure what psi to go with.
I read somewhere that for every pound of boost you have a 6.8% increase in horsepower of what the motor is makin. So if im making 383rwhp, and if i ran 7psi, id gain 47.6% hp increase which would b 565rwhp in theory.
Everything i need is..
- ATI balancer
- 8-rib pulley
- D1SC Kit (Reverse Rotation)
- 60# Injectors? (brand?)
- Racetronix fuel pump w/ hotwire?
- Twin intercooler setup w/ plumbing
- Tune
also, what pulleys create what PSI? and would 7psi be enough? If say, 10psi is max on a stock bottom, id like to stay under that, so im not too sure what psi to go with.
I read somewhere that for every pound of boost you have a 6.8% increase in horsepower of what the motor is makin. So if im making 383rwhp, and if i ran 7psi, id gain 47.6% hp increase which would b 565rwhp in theory.
First on the racetronix pump, from what I've been told a racetronix pump with a hotwire kit will support 550whp. Though I've also been told you have a greater chance of leaning out at that level also. Besides you won't be saving $800 it'll be more like $400. Racetronix pump a wire harness is $200 and you still have to buy injectors. The lonnies twin intank is $600 plus injectors.
Now to make an 8-rib setup you need more than just a pulley.
-8rib blower pulley
-8rib crank pulley
-ati harmonic balancer
-and if you're piecing the entire kit together you can just order the j bracket for an 8 rib setup so that it'll come with the correct stand offs, idler pulley, spacers, and hardware. If you get a used j bracket from a 6 rib setup all the hardware pieces will need to be changed for an 8rib drive.
Hope this helps, I'm sure other guys will chime in. If I missed something please correct me. I'm no expert by any means, but guys around here have been very helpful. Always keep alert for procharger threads or even just search the topic. A lot can be learned from others trials and tribulations. Good luck!!!
You should check out a couple of our build threads. A lot of good info in them. Here's another good one. First ones my build thread and the 2nd one is the "Procharger guys" thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ore-boost.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rger-guys.html
I would suggest going over kill on the fuel system. Leaning out isn't something you want to play with. I had a dual GS340 pump setup wired into the stock fuel pump wiring and it worked just fine until I went to a return style. 60 lb/hr Siemens decka or motron are the most common. Keep a eye in the for sale section as they come up often but sell just as quick. Bob from brute speed will have most of the parts you'll need at the best price. Don't forget gauges as well. At a minimum you want fuel pressure and a wide band as they will save your ***...ask me how I know this lol. I made 10psi with a 7.25" crank pulley and a 3.70" blower pulley. For math's sake alone I was spinning the blower to 52,219 rpm at 6500 engine rpm. Your going to lose a little more boost with your cam specs but it should still pull nicely up top...its not optimal but you'd be surprised at a prochargers performance with a big cam. I would start with the 7.65" crank and a 4.0" blower pulley and see where that gets you. You'll be spinning the blower to 50,968 rpm. Feel free to send me a PM with questions...I'll help as much as I can.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ore-boost.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rger-guys.html
I would suggest going over kill on the fuel system. Leaning out isn't something you want to play with. I had a dual GS340 pump setup wired into the stock fuel pump wiring and it worked just fine until I went to a return style. 60 lb/hr Siemens decka or motron are the most common. Keep a eye in the for sale section as they come up often but sell just as quick. Bob from brute speed will have most of the parts you'll need at the best price. Don't forget gauges as well. At a minimum you want fuel pressure and a wide band as they will save your ***...ask me how I know this lol. I made 10psi with a 7.25" crank pulley and a 3.70" blower pulley. For math's sake alone I was spinning the blower to 52,219 rpm at 6500 engine rpm. Your going to lose a little more boost with your cam specs but it should still pull nicely up top...its not optimal but you'd be surprised at a prochargers performance with a big cam. I would start with the 7.65" crank and a 4.0" blower pulley and see where that gets you. You'll be spinning the blower to 50,968 rpm. Feel free to send me a PM with questions...I'll help as much as I can.
awesome man, thanks for the help, im going to piece this together over the next 6 - 8 months, the gf gets concerned when i drop $6000 at a time into the car lol....ill read those builds and see what im getting into. hopefully i can accomplish this for aroun $5000
also, would 10psi b too much?
also, would 10psi b too much?
Some say yes others say not...its a great debate lol. What I can tell you is 8psi is safer then 10psi. Spinning her to 6200 is safer then spinning her to 6600. IMO and I know some other very knowledgeable members say rpm kills the motors faster then boost pressure. 98Z28Cobrakiller had some interesting info in his build thread with his turbo combo. He was running 14psi IIRC with no problems and he decided to spin the motor a little higher and that's where she failed. (Correct me if I'm wrong man) Yes there's obviously a point in which that is no longer true but I ran my car on 10psi with methanol for a loooong time. I had over 50K on my motor and I beat the hell out of her. I think meth and not taking her past 6400ish is what kept it alive. I was playing with the devil but a lot of others do as well and we seem to do ok lol.
ok good to know, i think ill just stick with that 8psi mark. if the car makes 500rwhp or more, ill b a happy camper. i think my rev limiter is set at 6700 right now, so when i have it re-tuned, ill have him drop it down to 6200-6300. Now i have a couple questions about the fuel system. Say i wanted to do the twin intake racetronix fuel pumps, how do u go about mounting them and hooking them up to the same line. Would the lonnies setup be easier/cheaper? one more question is, could i run the 255lph racetronix with a hot wire and then slap on an inline pump from NX as a helper pump? or would i be in the same price range and jsut go ahead and do twin pumps.... i wish i could get by with just 1 and save some money. As far as guages go, i think ill just buy one of those aeroscan guages that can monitor everything.
Twin pumps are pretty cheap. Its $124 for a pump. You can set up a Y-Block in the tank and use the stock supply line. I had both my pumps wired into the stock power wiring for the power supply and had no problems on a return less system.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 537
Likes: 1
FI is the ultimate path to big power but if cost is an issue be careful.
I'm a little confused on your math in comparing FI to nitrous. Your blower build will cost you at least $5K and you are looking to add a little over 100 rwhp to get to 500. A 125 N2O kit, with all the bells & whistles will cost you $1K or so and achieve your power goals. $4K buys a lot of nitrous, especially for a street car that sees few races.
I'm a little confused on your math in comparing FI to nitrous. Your blower build will cost you at least $5K and you are looking to add a little over 100 rwhp to get to 500. A 125 N2O kit, with all the bells & whistles will cost you $1K or so and achieve your power goals. $4K buys a lot of nitrous, especially for a street car that sees few races.
ya but when my bottle is empty I'm out of power.... Plus, procharger sounds badass lol. Cost is a small issue. I can afford it just fine, I just wanna do it over a period of time and I'm not paying $6000 for a brand new kit....I'd like to stay under 5k