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I've owned 2 s13 and 1 s14 all with sr20s. Great platform. What was your freshalloy or zilvia screenname? :-). I really miss these cars. 400 whp in these was the most fun I've ever had on the street. Do you use stock rear or something like a j30? Is that the ict alternator mount?
Thanks man! I had 4 Sr's, 4 different turbo setups before I made the LS switch. Freshalloy is something i haven't heard in so long. my screenname for both was/is the same as here - 91 240.
I used the stock r200 from a 95 Q45
that's the stock c5 p/s alternator bracket
Originally Posted by 1RMDave
Fantastic work! I'm really impressed, you make me feel bad about my welding and over all build lol
Thanks man! Dont feel bad, mine's not great by any means. Just keep at it and you'll get better.
Well it's been over a year and I have some updates. Not quite the updates I wanted to have at this time, but they are pretty significant i think.
Shortly after my last update, my stock 98 T56 finally gave up while making pulls and working on the tune. I knew this was going to happen at some point, so i wasn't too disappointed. But, what happened after wasn't expected.
I sent my trans to Texas Drivetrain Performance in DFW to check it out and look at a rebuild. After a couple weeks i got the bad news...basically everything needed. Level 2 rebuild ended up being around $2500 that would have been good for ~700trq. Instead I decided to go with a brand new Magnum F for just a couple hundred more.
While waiting for the new trans, I added some new brakes and wheels. Upgraded the from CTSV fronts and 300zx rears, to a full set from a 370Z Nismo.
With the larger brakes I needed bigger wheels. Ended up with some SSR GTX01's 18X9.5 +22 in front and 18x10.5 +22 in rear
Got everything put back together and started the 500 mile break in procedure on the trans. Over the summer this was rough...100 degrees, all black car, turbo, no a/c, etc made for a very warm drive. Good thing though, coolant temps never got above 200 after 45 mins of stop and go driving, before I would hit 220-230 after 10-15 mins in 60 degree weather.
While racking up the break in miles I started looking around for local tuners to get it tuned after getting my 500 miles done. Turns out no one within 200 miles was willing to tune my setup....Gen 3 P59 PCM, 3 bar OS, Speed Density only, etc. After talking with a shop 5 miles away, I decided to go the Holley route. Back in July I started ordering things, but it wasn't until November/December when I finally had all the parts to start swapping things over. Due to all the shipping delays across the world, it took 4 months to get the last piece.
Felt like I ordered the entire Holley catalog, as everything required 3 harnesses it seemed like. Then added a few other things since I was already doing all the work.
HP ECU
Main Power Harness
LS1 Engine Harness
Injector Harness
Input/Output harness
CAN I/O Module with harness
Wideband o2
New OEM coil harnesses
LS3 MAP adapter
7" digital dash
3D Racing Solutions Cluster for digital dash
I/O harness for the dash
GPS Speedo
Dual boost solenoids
3 100psi pressure sensors (fuel, oil, boost/dome)
Motion Raceworks billet dual channel in line flex fuel mount and sensor
BP Automotive Power Tap harness for Flex fuel and alternator
Dual Walbro 267 e85 pumps
Radium Engineering Triple pump hanger
After pulling out the old PCM and harness, I started cleaning up some interior wiring and started tearing the new Holley harness. I needed to shorten almost every sensor, tapped the BP FF/Alt harness as well as wiring the injector harness in directly. The injector harness connector was bulky and looked out of place.
Right now the harness is complete in the engine bay, I just need to shorten the WB02 harness then I'll be focusing on everything in the interior..hooking up the dash, all the input/output wiring, power wires, fuel pump, tach, etc. I hope i can have everything buttoned back up and running in the next month or two.
Damn man, that was quite the update! Watching and look at all these different swaps, there is one constant that connects them all. The Home Depot folding table. Those things are the MVP of garage wrenching.
I'll happily read as many or as few updates as you want to post on here, whenever they are. Keep it up, and keep us informed! It's vital to keep rad builds like this alive on the forums, as soooo many people have moved to the significantly shittier FB Group "builds" composed of 3 pics and a lackluster sentence followed by a lol, all viewed on a tiny smartphone screen. Whoops... I ranted! Can't wait to see more progress....
Progress is a bit slower than expected. Instead of just wiring in the Holley, i decided to redo most of the chassis wiring as well, out of necessity or just to clean things up some.
Under dash wiring was pretty bad. after removing the original loom, this is what i was left with
After a couple hours, this is what i was left with
I made a new electrical panel for the HP, CAN I/O module, fuse box, relays, etc
Old one
Made a bracket for the dual boost solenoids and dome sensor
Here are a couple of pics of issues I've been chasing over the years which led to redoing most of the chassis wiring.
battery cable to starter melted. This is what I get for using stereo cable even with reflective heat shielding. Lucky I caught this before it got worse. I now have 0 ga welding cable with DEI Fire Sleeve.
I've been chasing issues with burning plug wires. I relocated the coils below the manifolds on the inner frame rails, but after melting 4 MSD wires and now an Accel 9000 Ceramic wire to boot
I've gone back to the stock layout with coils on the rockers.
While doing so, I also found the passenger coil wiring had also melted in the same area as the starter cable. This was wrapped with Vibrant reflective wrap, but was still too hot. Definitely explains occasional misfiring i had.
This was from a few weeks ago and am further along, right now i'm down to 10 wires the inputs and outputs and then need to shorten/re-pin the WBO2 connector as I need to shorten it by ~4 feet.
I also need to redo my downpipe as it sits now, 6 and 8 plug wires would be touching the downpipe.
After that, last thing needed is to wire up the Holley Dash.
I'm hoping to have it all wrapped up in the next couple weeks.
Damn man, that was quite the update! Watching and look at all these different swaps, there is one constant that connects them all. The Home Depot folding table. Those things are the MVP of garage wrenching.
It's funny you mention it, but it's so true. Such a versatile tool
Originally Posted by frojoe
I'll happily read as many or as few updates as you want to post on here, whenever they are. Keep it up, and keep us informed! It's vital to keep rad builds like this alive on the forums, as soooo many people have moved to the significantly shittier FB Group "builds" composed of 3 pics and a lackluster sentence followed by a lol, all viewed on a tiny smartphone screen. Whoops... I ranted! Can't wait to see more progress....
Cheers,
Joe
Thanks again man! Call me old school, but I like the forum style as well. Call me that old grumpy man resisting change. I'm holding off FaceSpace or InstaChat as long as i can
Been a while only being to work on it a couple hours a week.
Took a long time to redo the downpipe.
Finally have the entire Holley system wired in. Created a new Global file from scratch and have been chasing a no fuel issue for the past 2-3 weeks. Turns out, the following fields in the Base System Config were essentially killing all hopes of it ever starting lol. I was to the point of tearing back into the entire wiring harness to track down every wire, even though I was pretty thorough when I started this.
Now it starts and runs very rough and dies. Need to mess around with it a bit more but have cleared the latest hurdle for now.
Next thing has been playing around with the 7" digital dash.
I liked a couple of the preconfigured layouts.
But after watching the following vid, i've decided to try my hand at making my own background.
I found this layout that i want to modify. This was from the ProTune digital dash. I'll be downloading Photoshop this week and will try to knock it out in the next few weeks.
I made my own custom layout to get a feel for adding/modifying gauges. Nothing special, just messing around.
I'm hoping my next update will include driving around doing some tuning and finishing up the last 250 miles needed to break in my new transmission. Also turns out my driveshaft is 3/4" too short and have a slight leak out the output seal. Looking at having a customer 3.5" alum one made.
turns out I had the wrong injector data loaded. I called Holley tech for assistance.....come to fine out the FIC 1000H info in the Engine Parameters are for Fuel Injector Clinic injectors, not Fuel Injector Connection which I am using. I got the Holley specific data and tried again.
Bam, fired and ran but damn it smoked like a diesel in boost. Shut it down immediately
Started tweaking the Base Fuel data until I was able to get it idling at a clean 13-14 afr.
Had to take out almost 800% fuel!!! So far i've only messed with the idle section below in red.
I'm working on the rest of the base fuel table and using the learn table to dial it in a little bit more before I get it back on the road for some more tuning. Need to get these last 250 miles done soon so I can get it back on the dyno for the first time in 7 years!!!!
turns out I had the wrong injector data loaded. I called Holley tech for assistance.....come to fine out the FIC 1000H info in the Engine Parameters are for Fuel Injector Clinic injectors, not Fuel Injector Connection which I am using. I got the Holley specific data and tried again.
Bam, fired and ran but damn it smoked like a diesel in boost. Shut it down immediately
Started tweaking the Base Fuel data until I was able to get it idling at a clean 13-14 afr.
Had to take out almost 800% fuel!!! So far i've only messed with the idle section below in red.
I'm working on the rest of the base fuel table and using the learn table to dial it in a little bit more before I get it back on the road for some more tuning. Need to get these last 250 miles done soon so I can get it back on the dyno for the first time in 7 years!!!!
That fuel flow table is crazy looking. It looks like someone copy and pasted a VE table into the fuel flow table. So fueling at idle was way rich and it is going to be way lean in boost.
I offer a comprehensive tuning service. If you're interested, shoot me an email: projectgattago at Gmail dot com
That fuel flow table is crazy looking. It looks like someone copy and pasted a VE table into the fuel flow table. So fueling at idle was way rich and it is going to be way lean in boost.
I offer a comprehensive tuning service. If you're interested, shoot me an email: projectgattago at Gmail dot com
Andrew
Thanks for pointing that our Andrew.....you're absolutely right. I was comparing a SD vs VE tune and copied the table without comparing the axis values.....which makes total sense.
Thanks for pointing that our Andrew.....you're absolutely right. I was comparing a SD vs VE tune and copied the table without comparing the axis values.....which makes total sense.
The axes for the fuel flow and the VE tables are the same. What's different are the values inside the table.
Finally got the base tune figured out enough to drive around enough to finish breaking in my new transmission.
Today I took it to get tuned.
Best pull of the day was 672whp and 640wtrq at ~12psi on pump gas.
Numbers dont tell the full story.
Someone way back in this thread mentioned the single Bosch 044 fuel pump I'm running probably wouldn't be enough. Low and behold...so true.
Fuel pressure looked good until peak torque then started falling off fast. Tune was VERY conservative as it barely had 10* of timing. More timing and more fuel at the same boost could have been closer to ~720/700. I have dual a 450 Walbro setup coming soon, i just have a good deal of fab work to make it happen. Definitely hoping for bigger numbers.
Here's a vid a put together from some of the runs. They weren't very good but at least it's something