Jer, I pmed you back, looks like I need to find someone with one of those ATI washers, because I don't have one..........

 

If the tranny is slipping the motor would rev up bigtime, was it?

You can also scan slippage with scanners.

 

Yep engine was revving hard and fast but nothing was being put down to the rollers. Sitting in the car on the dyno normally scares the crap outta me, but it was rather weak this time around. The car didn't jump or go sideways like it normally does it just spun em slowly. I will do some logging with my EFIlive today on the way to the parts store to see what comes up.
J

 

With a Vig 3800 you will see some slippage with the converter unlocked, so keep that in mind. But if you are going 50 mph and put load on it and the motor revs 2000 rpms and does not accelerate there is a problem. Don't beat on it if that is the case eventually the car will not even move.

If you can borrow a MAF-T you can use that to fatten the car up if you are leaning out due to the cogs, which I would kind of expect since you'd have no slippage.

 

Not to ask a silly question but wouldnt it be easier to cut the nose of the pulley down instead of spacing the head unit forward?

 

Woah thats wacky how the belt rides on the edge of the pulleys like that.

Don't borrow a MAFT and try to run it again. Get it tuned right. That would be foolish to attempt a bandaid fix on a car pushing that many psi.

Sorry to hear the tranny is finally letting go. Not suprising though with the power you will be making.

I know the feeling but in a lesser sense as now with my ATI mr z06 clutch no es bueno. Spec III going in soon.

 

I was looking at my inlet had, does anyone know what the bigger opening is for, the metal part sticking out I plan on pluggin, looks like a vaccum hose must of attached to it.......

 

PSJ, yep the vig3800 always slipped but not enough to affect the dyno numbers the way they did. It was just sad that 13.5-14psi showing on the gauge and the car wasn't putting any power down at all. I can post the graph of my MMS-3.2 combo with belt slip(verified by me watching the boost gauge nose dive from 13psi to 9psi) to this dyno with no belt slip but its way sad.
kp not a silly question at all but thats the way ASP designed em so I had to run it like that Hopefully he will update the design and get everything lined up without spacers.

Heath sup buddy hows the car running. Yeah something has to be done about my fuel, I just ordered some rails and other stuff to do it up right so that will be squared away taking one less thing out of the equation. I'm going to patiently wait for the HPtuners program to come out. The dyno guy said he would sit down with me and figure it out and tune the car right. He does F.A.S.T tuning, predator, ACCEL and another mustang editing program(tweecer or something?) So he feels he can get a handle on it.
Yeah my buddy Neal had a centerforce clutch on his T/A when he dropped in his 396 LT1 Solid Roller beast, that clutch lasted a couple passes lol definately no bueno.

As for the belt riding on the outter edge of the cogs, It would center up on the cogs if the tensioner pulley was closer to the bracket but I couldn't figure out how to do that(need to machine down the round ring on the tensioner shaft). If it was closer it would bring the belt foward on the crank cog toward the radiator and do the same on the s/c cog. At least thats what I can come up with in my head.

Bos, the outlet next to the metal nipple right? That was for the ATI bypass. I have mine blocked with a Fernco coupler 1inch, and a PCV 1inch cap in the end of that. You have a Race BOV on it right? So it shoulda been blocked with something?
You can see the nipple covered with a rubber nipple thing with a couple of red ties, the bigger outlet has the fernco coupler on it

Both of those are at home depot in the same section so its real easy to find.
J

 

Yea......now I remember what sikora was telling me about.....

"you got a Big 2" hole in the inlet hat"

I'll plug it w/something....

EXPLAINS why my blower is still filled w/belt dust........

You get that P/N for the washer yet jer? no rush........

 

frcfed98 I also noticed that you have a rubber coupler on your inlet hat, is a D1 bigger then a P1 on the inlet and thats why you did that? Just wondering..

Bigbos what kind of washer do you need do you need from ATI? I have a ton of ATI hardware laying around from a bunch of f-body and C5 installs/uninstalls.

 

Man in looking at that setup I can't help but think that belt is going to flex off the S/C pully. Even if it didn't come completely off under WOT conditions, wouldn't it being partially off tear the bet to shreads?

Forcefed and Bos you guys both have the steel ATI bracket right? I'll be really interested to hear if you have the same short belt lifespan that clint(huggerorangeSS) has.

Mike

 

kp, the rubber coupler do you mean the blue one or the small black one. If you are talking about the blue one its because I was a PD to ATI convert and I bought a partial kit from ATI, just the headunit, brackets, intercoolers and plenum. The inlet hat didn't come with all that so I had to buy it seperate. It came without any silicon hose for connecting it to the s/c. So I had to go down to the dyno and he gave me that piece glad it fit. What does the ATI piece look like, I've never seen it. Anyone got a pic of it?

Mike, the cog belt will stay because it is blocked from moving side to side by the tensioner pulley's guides. The belt is actually right at the edge of booth of them, kinda hard to tell in the pics. I took some more pics today and sent them to Lee to see what he has to say about the way the belt sits. It will shread if it isn't dead straight from the crank to the s/c from the side loads generated. Which looking from the top on my set up, the belt isn't straight so I will wait for what lee says.

No steel bracket for me yet, I ran low on cash when Jason had em for sale damn car.
J

 

Well you got a good run out of the tranny so what can you say. I would recommend looking into a 12bolt too dude cause that will be the next thing to go. My car will be done someday, I just wish I knew when, then we could race to see who blows their 10 bolt up first. I would seriously look into a FLP Level 4 trans thats whats going in my car. I know a number of people who run them with big motors.

 

Hard to tell from the vid, but trans life if shot will do it. Also, looks like the curve almost goes straight up and flattens out? If so, awesome. Have been following this thread since I found it in case I dont go Turbo, and everyday goes by looks like ATI is winning. Sorry to hear about all the problems, but sounds like you almost expected and are prepared for them. I too want to do a new shortblock, then add ATI + fuel system and nail the 9's, oh maybe a 12bolt as well. Good luck.

 

There is no coupler, the plastic part goes right on the blower, thats why I asked

here is a pic of mine..

 

Maddboost, whats up man. I am hoping the tranny isn't gone, I checked the fluid it was a little low maybe half a quart and the fluid was nice and red. I didn't add any in because I will be dropping the pan in the morning to replace the filter and check things out from there with efilive.
I will replace the things that blow up in that order, looks like tranny then 10 bolt That ol ten bolt won't give up

CAT3, I have noticed you popping up here on the FI board a lot. If I had to do it all over again, one word TURBO no doubt about it. I just finished sending off a email to a somewhat local company here in NM that will be releasing their LS1 F-body turbo kit soon. I hope they are near finished with the developement and testing of it.
Yeah the curve shoots straight up and levels off which would be awesome if it was better than the non cog pull, it wasn't even close. To say I expect the problems is an understatement lol, with my luck I just know that something crappy will happen. Thats just the way it is God is a comedianThe car didn't like having its stock LS1 replaced, now it is rejecting the 348/cog transplant lol.
ATI could have done a better job with the brackets and overall design of this kit IMHO.
Glad to see another 10bolt devotee though
J

 

Yeah, my 10bolt is fine, after several 150, 180DP and 200 shots of nitrous from the line, pulling the fronts off and everything. But the trans only lasted 30,000miles, and 62o+/-passes in one year, then she slipped out from 3-4. Still drove her for a week only 1st and 2d. Went to a Cm and boy lemme tell ya, absolutely no problem now. No guessing if it holds, just satisfaction.
Turbo tuning seems to be a bit more difficult, or so I hear due to the load part of the equation. I dont know. Seems like SC setups are more reliable to everyday, and monthly raced cars. Mine will be a driver, and racer so I want easier maintenance and reliability... Am I really asking for too much, 750rwhp and reliability?

 

kp NOoooooo SHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!! Man why hasn't anyone caught that with the 1.2 million pics I have posted. I feel like a dweeb now I never even tried to mate them together Thanks all you ATI guys for not tell me about this **** up Damn, now I have to question everything I do I know.....its for dampening the vibration from the engine.....
Thanks man for catching that,
J

 

no problem, figured it would give you a little more room in front of the plastic plenum, it looks pretty tight up there

 

Also by watching your dyno it sounds like the car downshifted to 2nd, if your WOT shift points are over 6100 the car couldnt shift into 3rd if you let off of it. You will dyno pretty low in 2nd gear..

If the the trans was locked in 3rd with a tech II or EFIlive then it may be slipping, depending on how your trans shift points are done you usually have to be above 4200rpm in 3rd for it not to downshift into 2nd when you nail it.

Happen to have a dyno sheet or better yet the dyno files, you can tell by the mph if it was in 2nd gear.