Procharger fan -> spal fan
07-18-2012, 03:12 PM
#21
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So far I purchased the LT1 radiator from O'rileys ($108), new air dam from the dealer($51) and replacement belt. The fan is on order from SPAL.
Also going to remove the washer tank and plastic piece in front the radiator.(unless it is needed)
* this is not my DD , I was having issues making back to back passes at the track.
Also going to remove the washer tank and plastic piece in front the radiator.(unless it is needed)
* this is not my DD , I was having issues making back to back passes at the track.
07-19-2012, 07:25 PM
#22
It will mount on the shroud with bolts. Make sure the heads of the bolts are on the inside of the shroud when attaching with the nuts and bolts. Then less chance of gouging the fins or tubes on the radiator during installation or removal of the shroud and fans later on.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537
You might have to trim the outside diameter of the 16 and 9 fans so both will fit on the shroud. As you can see on the 16 inch fan in pic (fan is a spal) I trimmed mine because of a larger fan I had installed earlier as a test. I still plan to install a Spal since the additional fan definitely helps to extract heat from the driver side of the radiator. The downside is that all of the extracted heat is dumped into the engine bay.
I also plan to install ductwork on the output side of the fan which will direct the extracted heat down and out from underneath the car. This fan because of its height also heats up the intake pipe running to the intake manifold (bad).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537
You might have to trim the outside diameter of the 16 and 9 fans so both will fit on the shroud. As you can see on the 16 inch fan in pic (fan is a spal) I trimmed mine because of a larger fan I had installed earlier as a test. I still plan to install a Spal since the additional fan definitely helps to extract heat from the driver side of the radiator. The downside is that all of the extracted heat is dumped into the engine bay.
I also plan to install ductwork on the output side of the fan which will direct the extracted heat down and out from underneath the car. This fan because of its height also heats up the intake pipe running to the intake manifold (bad).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 07-19-2012 at 07:37 PM.
08-03-2012, 09:08 AM
#25
I think the stock fans were wired separately but could be turned on in the PCM at the same time.
I would wire the fans to the stock wiring for the fans (it' already there and wired back to relays (breakers). I recall ATI suggested in the their instructions to tie both fan connections together (in their later version correct version) when connecting to their one 16 inch inadequate fan.
If you drive the car in cool air (fall, winter, early spring) you really don't need both the single small fans to come on at the same time as your will now. No use to run (wear out) the fan if not needed.
I would wire the fans to the stock wiring for the fans (it' already there and wired back to relays (breakers). I recall ATI suggested in the their instructions to tie both fan connections together (in their later version correct version) when connecting to their one 16 inch inadequate fan.
If you drive the car in cool air (fall, winter, early spring) you really don't need both the single small fans to come on at the same time as your will now. No use to run (wear out) the fan if not needed.
08-03-2012, 10:41 AM
#26
08-03-2012, 11:08 AM
#27
Depends upon how many amps both draw when they turn on.
If it's more amps than the stock relay that is configured to supply power to just one stock fan, then I think most would say not to wire both into the wiring for the single stock fan.
My single Spal 16 inch extreme draws a lot of amps, perhaps more than the stock fan. So it is wired singular. Yours perhaps is not the extreme and might draw less amps on start up. Spal has all of the specs on their site for each fan you have.
When you first start any electric motor - that is the greatest load on a circuit. Kind of like when you see the lights dim, if a circuit is overloaded when a new appliance comes on line and starts to draw additional amps from the circuit.
hth
If it's more amps than the stock relay that is configured to supply power to just one stock fan, then I think most would say not to wire both into the wiring for the single stock fan.
My single Spal 16 inch extreme draws a lot of amps, perhaps more than the stock fan. So it is wired singular. Yours perhaps is not the extreme and might draw less amps on start up. Spal has all of the specs on their site for each fan you have.
When you first start any electric motor - that is the greatest load on a circuit. Kind of like when you see the lights dim, if a circuit is overloaded when a new appliance comes on line and starts to draw additional amps from the circuit.
hth
08-03-2012, 09:57 PM
#28
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My bro installed it. Went good. Fans both fire
Up when needed and didn't blow a fuse. Only problem it didnt help. Car seemed to
Get hotter faster. The small fan was
Just confirmed to be spinning the correct puller way. Big fan not sure yet. If both are pulling correctly what's going on. No coolant lines disconnected.also when driving with ac on in 90 degree weather. Went to the store left the wife in it running and ac shut off when on Max ac and car was at 230. Drove away put on just ac setting worked. Drove and temp climed 236. Got to a light and the ac stopped working again. Got nervous windows down and heat didn't dissipate at all so the heat went on and it
Cooled down to 218 when we
Stopped at a friends. Both fans working. Small fan seems to pull stronger than big fan.
If both pull how could it make it worse and the. Screw up the ac. That's never happened before
Up when needed and didn't blow a fuse. Only problem it didnt help. Car seemed to
Get hotter faster. The small fan was
Just confirmed to be spinning the correct puller way. Big fan not sure yet. If both are pulling correctly what's going on. No coolant lines disconnected.also when driving with ac on in 90 degree weather. Went to the store left the wife in it running and ac shut off when on Max ac and car was at 230. Drove away put on just ac setting worked. Drove and temp climed 236. Got to a light and the ac stopped working again. Got nervous windows down and heat didn't dissipate at all so the heat went on and it
Cooled down to 218 when we
Stopped at a friends. Both fans working. Small fan seems to pull stronger than big fan.
If both pull how could it make it worse and the. Screw up the ac. That's never happened before
08-04-2012, 09:57 AM
#29
Too late now, but it's best to test the fan direction when the shroud is out.
The direction can be wrong (pull or push), but the blade can be mounted wrong as well. Curves blades are designed to scoop air away (pull) from the source (the radiator) or scoop air from ambient and direct it to the radiator (push). For example a window fan can pull air into a room or push air out of a room simply but reversing the position of the fan box.
However, if your fan is a Spal and it is a puller then the fan should be mounted correctly on the motor by Spal. But never hurts to check before the install.
Some fans are dual purpose. They push or pull determined by how you mount the blade and how you wire the motor - wire to run forward or wire to run backward. You will have to refer to the fan instructions.
The early editions of the ATI instructions were incorrect and if followed the fan would be a pusher instead of a puller.
After the fan is installed on the shroud and in the car it is somewhat difficult to tell if it is pushing or pulling because the air will be forced backward as it hits the restrictive fins on the radiator. However, if it is truly pulling then the air exhausted from the fan as it blows down on the passenger side is extremly hot and will burn you feet when standing next to the passenger fender. Yes a good puller fan such as the high dollar Spal puller exhaustz a significant amount of heat from the radiator.
As for your wiring. No offense but just because something works doesn't necessarily mean it's wired safely.
I am sure you have heard of a brownout. Appliances on a circuit will appear to work during brownouts. But they will eventually fail if they don't receive the proper amount of power. You don't want to overheat wires in your car and start an electrical fire.
As for your AC quitting. It's on a relay. You might try it today and see if it works again. If it failed and it's never failed before then it's probably the way you wired the fans.
The direction can be wrong (pull or push), but the blade can be mounted wrong as well. Curves blades are designed to scoop air away (pull) from the source (the radiator) or scoop air from ambient and direct it to the radiator (push). For example a window fan can pull air into a room or push air out of a room simply but reversing the position of the fan box.
However, if your fan is a Spal and it is a puller then the fan should be mounted correctly on the motor by Spal. But never hurts to check before the install.
Some fans are dual purpose. They push or pull determined by how you mount the blade and how you wire the motor - wire to run forward or wire to run backward. You will have to refer to the fan instructions.
The early editions of the ATI instructions were incorrect and if followed the fan would be a pusher instead of a puller.
After the fan is installed on the shroud and in the car it is somewhat difficult to tell if it is pushing or pulling because the air will be forced backward as it hits the restrictive fins on the radiator. However, if it is truly pulling then the air exhausted from the fan as it blows down on the passenger side is extremly hot and will burn you feet when standing next to the passenger fender. Yes a good puller fan such as the high dollar Spal puller exhaustz a significant amount of heat from the radiator.
As for your wiring. No offense but just because something works doesn't necessarily mean it's wired safely.
I am sure you have heard of a brownout. Appliances on a circuit will appear to work during brownouts. But they will eventually fail if they don't receive the proper amount of power. You don't want to overheat wires in your car and start an electrical fire.
As for your AC quitting. It's on a relay. You might try it today and see if it works again. If it failed and it's never failed before then it's probably the way you wired the fans.
08-05-2012, 11:28 AM
#30
I am pretty sure my Spal extreme 16 turns clockwise.
However, your fan blades don't look like mine or the Spal in the link below.
It appears as if the blade on yours has been switched from a puller to a pusher. But just a guess.
BTW - if you reverse the blade but don't reverse the wiring you don't gain much because the pitch of the blade is critical. So even though the fan might be turning the correct direction, the fact that the blade has been flipped negates the effect for a puller.
Spal Fan - notice how the blades are different on the Spal compared to yours and appear to flow clockwise.
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102082
My Fan - notice the blades point differently and same as the spal above.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537
However, your fan blades don't look like mine or the Spal in the link below.
It appears as if the blade on yours has been switched from a puller to a pusher. But just a guess.
BTW - if you reverse the blade but don't reverse the wiring you don't gain much because the pitch of the blade is critical. So even though the fan might be turning the correct direction, the fact that the blade has been flipped negates the effect for a puller.
Spal Fan - notice how the blades are different on the Spal compared to yours and appear to flow clockwise.
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102082
My Fan - notice the blades point differently and same as the spal above.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537
08-05-2012, 11:56 AM
#31
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Just an update. 16" fan was spinning the wrong way. Put some tissue paper Infront of each fan and it wanted to such It into the large fan.
As for the ac no working my theory is the hot radiator air 230+ degrees was blowing onto the condenser and making the ac not work. It's raining now but I need to try the car today since its about 92 and 70 perfect humidity. Thanks for the help guys. It's all good now
As for the ac no working my theory is the hot radiator air 230+ degrees was blowing onto the condenser and making the ac not work. It's raining now but I need to try the car today since its about 92 and 70 perfect humidity. Thanks for the help guys. It's all good now
08-05-2012, 12:02 PM
#32
Good to hear you got it working.
I still think you should verify that the blade hasn't been flipped on yours.
I still have my ATI fan. I will get pics and send you. It came off of my car and was never touched by anyone but me - so I know the fan blade pitch direction is correct.
As for your AC - I agree. The condensor was getting hot air from the pusher fan on the radiator rather than ambient from the air dam below the car.
I still think you should verify that the blade hasn't been flipped on yours.
I still have my ATI fan. I will get pics and send you. It came off of my car and was never touched by anyone but me - so I know the fan blade pitch direction is correct.
As for your AC - I agree. The condensor was getting hot air from the pusher fan on the radiator rather than ambient from the air dam below the car.
08-10-2012, 08:38 PM
#36
The fan blade on it is the same as yours and the blades point in the same direction as yours. So I don't think it was changed by the previous owner.
However, I still think you should power each fan separately with the wired connections that were originally wired to each of the stock fans. You or your tuner can set the setting in the PCM for when you want each to come on.
hth
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 08-10-2012 at 08:43 PM.
07-12-2013, 09:28 AM
#38
I have the SDCE shroud with 14" and 10" spal fans ill sell... sold procharger and now going turbo.... I ran these bout 1500 miles..... paid 415 ill sell for 325.... I heated up with the procharger fan and shroud... 1 fan is not enough for a stalled auto car and procharger.....