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Procharger fan -> spal fan

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Old 08-17-2011, 06:42 PM
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Default Procharger fan -> spal fan

I finishing up the piecing together of my d1 kit and one of the last things I have to purchase is the fan setup. I bought the procharger shroud but held off getting their 16" fan after reading of overheating issues some other guys have written about. I think I'm gonna go with the 16" spal puller fan for a direct replacement of the procharger fan since it will fit the shroud without modification. Here's a link to the fan I'm thinking of getting, is it the correct fan?

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102082

Also for anyone that has this fan do I have to buy any relay harnesses or fan harness kits or do I just wire this into the existing OEM harness? Again all help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys,
Jason
Old 08-17-2011, 06:53 PM
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My fans were plug and play. I run 2 Spals.
Old 08-17-2011, 07:34 PM
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I run the Spal Extreme 16" and it works great.
Old 08-17-2011, 08:31 PM
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I am in Arizona, in the summer with the a/c on my car temp would rise. I went with duel spal fans wired in with factory wires.(16" and 9" fans) I dont have the item numbers I just know they were the highest cfm available. the car sounds like it has a blower when the fans kick on. I also had to put in a larger radiator. (purchased at Autozone for 120.00) The car has ran very cool for the last year with no problems. I have driven the car hard all year even in 110 temps with no problem. I hope this helps.

Last edited by XTNCTTA; 08-17-2011 at 10:17 PM.
Old 08-17-2011, 08:34 PM
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I have the big Spal fan that was on my ProCharger shroud just sitting in my cabinet taking up space........
Old 08-18-2011, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jastone
I finishing up the piecing together of my d1 kit and one of the last things I have to purchase is the fan setup. I bought the procharger shroud but held off getting their 16" fan after reading of overheating issues some other guys have written about. I think I'm gonna go with the 16" spal puller fan for a direct replacement of the procharger fan since it will fit the shroud without modification. Here's a link to the fan I'm thinking of getting, is it the correct fan?

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102082

Also for anyone that has this fan do I have to buy any relay harnesses or fan harness kits or do I just wire this into the existing OEM harness? Again all help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys,
Jason

Jason, that is the fan to go with. A lot of people use it in place of the ProCharger supplied fan. You can splice it right into your wiring. Bob
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:52 PM
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Does that fan fit the shround without any modification
Old 08-18-2011, 05:53 PM
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Do you need the metal shroud from procharger??? Can't you mount the spal fan directly to the radiator?
Old 06-24-2012, 06:30 PM
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Yes or you could make your own shroud out of scrap aluminum simply by copying the outline of the stock plastic shroud. And it would be a one piece instead of two piece like the ATI shroud. Leave it silver rather than black. I think silver will stay cooler than black

Or - I still think it might be possible to mount a sheet of aluminum on the stock shroud after removing essentially most of the inner plastic of the stock shroud. The stock shroud fits better than the ATI shroud and hangs without moving around in the mounting tabs.

The 16 inch hole in the ATI shroud will be a direct bolt on for the Spal fan. You will have to cut the 9 inch hole. When you finish it will look something like the pic below.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537


http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/

Tips.

Use heavy cardboard and place it against the inside facing of the radiator when you are working with the shroud. It is a very tight fit and you can easily gouge the fins and possibly a tube(s) on the radiator when removing or installing the shroud. I ruined a $500 BeCool radiator because I didn't have the carbboard in place and because I had the bolts pointing inward rather than outward when I bolted everything in place.

Have your bolts pointing out on the shroud with the head of the bolts on the inside of the shroud when you mount both fans. There isn't much clearance and a bolt end can easily get close and gouge the fins and tubes.

Do the same when bolting the ATI two piece shroud together.

I used a stickon rubber sealer between the fan and the shroud - found in heating and cooling at Lowes/Home Depot/Menards. See first pic.

Note: The Spal fan will pull so much heat from the radiator - the extracted heat as it is blown down toward the ground will actually burn your foot when standing on the driver side just ahead of the right front wheel. The heat also unfortunately heats the outlet pipe from the charger to the inlet side of the FMIC. And we wonder why the IAT's are so high?

Unfornately all of the heat from the 9 inch fan doesn't escape as easily either. I wrapped insulation tape around the radiator hose because the 9 inch fan will blow directly onto the hose making it extremely hot.

As a result of the height of the 9 inch fan your underhood temps will be higher than ever - some remove the insulation on the windshield cowling so underhood air can escape from under the hood. I have given though to making a shroud on the backside of the 9 inch fan and directing it out from under the hood - but I have other issues now - so that plan is on hold.

Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 06-24-2012 at 06:56 PM.
Old 06-24-2012, 07:44 PM
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Don't worry I had 2 becools they fall apart no matter what! Welds and what not!

As far as spals other Procharger kits have then now.
Old 07-12-2012, 11:00 AM
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I'm running into this issue now with the stock ATI set up with a FMIC and stock radiator. I was thinking of upgrading to the LT1 radiator, the SPAL fan and SLP manual fan switch. Now that I have swapped to a TH400 the car is running 220 plus.

How do the electric water pumps from Meziere hold up?
Old 07-12-2012, 12:33 PM
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I think I have solved most of the overheating issues related to the installation of the ATI Kit that only comes with one 16 inch puller fan.

The overheating is a result of not enough air moving through the radiator because of just one fan and the fact that all air that does pass through the radiator has to by design pass through the AC condensor regardless if the AC is on or off. But turn the air on in high 90's climates moving in stop and go traffic and the air coming off the air condensor is superheated. It goes directly to the radiator.

Wait now - we want ambient air to help transfer heat don't we - instead of super heated air coming from the ac condensor?

The fix IMO and others have verified the same results as my setup is to install the fixes below in order to move more air through the radiator:

One additional 9-10 inch puller fan on the ATI shroud.
Upgrade the ATI 16 inch fan with a SPAl Extreme fan.
Replace the stock fan with the thicker LT1 radiator.
Install two 11 inch pusher fans on the face of the AC condensor. The pusher fans will help to cool the ac condensor.
Replace the hacked air dam that is cut according to the instrucions from ATI when installing their kit with a new air dam.
Remove the plastic shrouding in front the AC condensor so the fans can pull air. The fans won't fit with plastic shrouding in place.
Open up the grille on (Camaro or Firebird).
In the summer run 10-20 percent antifreeze with Water Wetter or some other brand similar to water wetter. An 80/20 percent mixture of water/antifreeze transfers more heat than a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Or run Evans collant which doesn the same thing but has a much higher boiling point.

As for an electric water pump. I had one and removed it and went back to a stock water pump. The cost to purchase an electric water pump and the benefit it provides is much better spent on the Spal fans and LT1 radiator mentioned above.
Old 07-12-2012, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
I think I have solved most of the overheating issues related to the installation of the ATI Kit that only comes with one 16 inch puller fan.

The overheating is a result of not enough air moving through the radiator because of just one fan and the fact that all air that does pass through the radiator has to by design pass through the AC condensor regardless if the AC is on or off. But turn the air on in high 90's climates moving in stop and go traffic and the air coming off the air condensor is superheated. It goes directly to the radiator.

Wait now - we want ambient air to help transfer heat don't we - instead of super heated air coming from the ac condensor?

The fix IMO and others have verified the same results as my setup is to install the fixes below in order to move more air through the radiator:

One additional 9-10 inch puller fan on the ATI shroud.
Upgrade the ATI 16 inch fan with a SPAl Extreme fan.
Replace the stock fan with the thicker LT1 radiator.
Install two 11 inch pusher fans on the face of the AC condensor. The pusher fans will help to cool the ac condensor.
Replace the hacked air dam that is cut according to the instrucions from ATI when installing their kit with a new air dam.
Remove the plastic shrouding in front the AC condensor so the fans can pull air. The fans won't fit with plastic shrouding in place.
Open up the grille on (Camaro or Firebird).
In the summer run 10-20 percent antifreeze with Water Wetter or some other brand similar to water wetter. An 80/20 percent mixture of water/antifreeze transfers more heat than a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Or run Evans collant which doesn the same thing but has a much higher boiling point.

As for an electric water pump. I had one and removed it and went back to a stock water pump. The cost to purchase an electric water pump and the benefit it provides is much better spent on the Spal fans and LT1 radiator mentioned above.
Ok ordering parts now . I will post my results.
Old 07-12-2012, 03:37 PM
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I am running this for my 16" fan: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102049

I also have this as the 9" fan :http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30100392

It a good combination, but one of the fans is uber loud. I think it is the 9". I'll have to check in the future.
Old 07-12-2012, 11:52 PM
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Anyone have pics of this? The links above don't work.

edit - nevermind found them. Thanks for the pics dlandsvZ28.
Old 07-13-2012, 06:42 AM
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I purchased this one and am waiting to see if I will have to add an additional fan. It moves some air!

Zirgo ZFU16S - Zirgo Ultra High Performance Electric Fans
Old 07-13-2012, 07:50 AM
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Here are three pics. One with the hole cut in the ATI shroud for the nine inch fan and the hole pre-cut from ATI for any low profile 16 inch fan.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537

Back in 2006 when I first suggested the idea for another fan - there were a lot of naysayers. As you can see there is additional room for a fan with a larger diameter than the one I am using.

I started out with a larger profile Spal fan. At the time I didn't realize they were making a thinner low profile fan.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/

Back then when I talked to Spal they suggested I install their racing model what was then called the extreme fan. What they didn't tell me is that it is not built for longevity. Although mine hasn't failed yet - who knows how long it will last. It doesn't have a very long life and pulls a ton of amps when it first comes on. It has a very short life if not wired properly. Get the one suggested now by Bob at Brute Speed. It is built for street use with a long life.

Note: there isn't a lot of room in the engine bay for the nine inch fan. You will notice too, that it really heats up the engine bay since there is no where for the discharged air to go since the downward path is blocked by the ATI sc immediately below the fan.

There are also naysayers about my idea for installing pusher fans on on the ac condenser even though some car models have pusher fans on the ac condenser. Wire the fan with a switch. Turn them on only when needed. The air dam in cooler temps will be more than adequate to keep the car cool with the AC in early spring, winter, or fall when outside temps are less than 75 degrees.

hth

Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 07-13-2012 at 09:15 AM.
Old 07-13-2012, 08:44 AM
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Sorry about the edits - I am somewhat dyslectic and what I think I type isn't really what I type.

My temps run right at 210 in stop and go traffic with the AC on but I drive easy. I have an A4. It runs at 185 on the highway with the AC on. Once it reaches 210, it takes a trip at 65-70 mph to get it to cool back down to 185 again.

I can now let the car sit and idle in my driveway in 100 degree temps and it will never get over 210. I use a 185 thermostat and a 80/20 mix of water and antifreeze (summer only) with a water wetter.

After the inital install of the ATI back in 2005 and before the installation of the additional fans - I was not able to drive at 65 mph and run less than 230. Trying to park it and let it idle with AC on was a joke - it would boil imediately.

I tossed the ATI twins and rubber hoses and now have an FMIC with custom aluminum piping.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537



It's still a work in progress.

Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 07-13-2012 at 09:17 AM.
Old 07-13-2012, 08:47 AM
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I have updated my fan to the Zirgo mentioned above as well. Unfortunetly it just wasn't enough to keep it cool. So I purchased a Zirgo 9" fan to add to the 16".

I had to make a new fan schroud due to the fan outter diameter being larger. I moved the 16" farther to the right which allowed for the 9" to fit. I'm pleased to say that I'm able to use the A/C again. Altho currently temps climb when doing sprints but fall a few minutes after driving like normal.

I have to replace the procharger belt and accessory belt due to belt slip. So that may be some cause for the high temps. I'll have to post back once it's all fixed.
Old 07-13-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
Sorry about the edits - I am somewhat dyslectic and what I think I type isn't really what I type.

My temps run right at 210 in stop and go traffic with the AC on but I drive easy. I have an A4. It runs at 185 on the highway with the AC on. Once it reaches 210, it takes a trip at 65-70 mph to get it to cool back down to 185 again.

I can now let the car sit and idle in my driveway in 100 degree temps and it will never get over 210. I use a 185 thermostat and a 80/20 mix of water and antifreeze (summer only) with a water wetter.

After the inital install of the ATI back in 2005 and before the installation of the additional fans - I was not able to drive at 65 mph and run less than 230. Trying to park it and let it idle with AC on was a joke - it would boil imediately.

I tossed the ATI twins and rubber hoses and now have an FMIC with custom aluminum piping.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537

It's still a work in progress.

thanks for the help and info , i guess another fan is in the works for me then , im a t56 car so that should help me keep a little cooler than your a4.


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