Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

I've been running a LS6 block in my car with great success. However, I just lost a timing chain... which took out my front cover, oil pan and a number of valves in my 317 heads.

I have a chance to pickup a complete 02 LQ4 for $1200. The question is, what all needs to be done to push 20psi @ this thing?

• Rod bolts? Sounds like a good idea to do these... but not sure if its needed.
• Cyl head studs?
• Regapping rings? Should I just open the gap on the stockers or get aftermarket? If so, what rings at what gap?
• Timing chain? Stock ok, or upgrade?
• Damper? Stock, or upgrade? I've got a 25% powerbond on the LS6 now... move that over?
• Flex plate? I've got a TH400 behind my LS6 right now w/a TCI flexplate. Will that need to be replaced?
• Valve springs - I plan to move over my dual comp cams springs kit
• Pushrods - moving over my 7.4 comp cams PRs

Thanks in advance!

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

at 20psi, you should be going with good rods and pistons at a minimum

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

As in forged pieces?

What do you think stock bottom is good to?

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

What timing chain were you running....out of curiosity....

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

a double roller I bought at SDPC. I don't honestly know which it was specifically. I called SDPC to find out but they purged all records prior to 2009 due to a system upgrade or something.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I agree with Fireball. My stock bottom gave up at about 550-600 rwhp. That was with stock rod bolts. I've seen guys make over 700 rwhp with the arp rod bolts but not sure for how long. The real killer is RPM as well as how long the pull is. For instance, it would last a lot longer if it's running 1/8th mile vs 1/4. Even more if it's just going to be a dyno queen.

I've never seen a double roller chain let go. I've never had one of my LS2 single chains let go for that matter. I have seen a few cam sprockets shear the bolts off which does about the same thing. For this reason I stay away from the adjustables.

I use a powerbond crank pulley and it works fine. Don't use the stock one. Seen a bunch of those separate.

TCi plate is fine. Push rods should work if you are using the stock cam and heads.

Studs are good idea at that boost level.

mpatton

Am I the only one seeing this whole deal as a ticking time bomb? Hell im going with a built shortblock etc and with 12 -15 in mind.... just my .02 good luck either way man sounds fun

allout06

iTrader: (11)

im going to be on a stock bottom for a little while, but plan on picking up a junk yard 6.0 LQ9, and do a forged rotating assembly, with head studs, and all ARP bolts internally, throw in a blower cam, and swap over everything else i have and call it a day. And at that point, i still only wanna run 12-15psi. Or, if my block lasts long enough (stock) ill just forge it and say screw the 6.0 and save some money....

but i would def just buy a forged rotating assembly... just for piece of mind. Def do headstuds, and arp hardware.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

20+ lbs on a gt88 in my buddies car, made 808rwhp on 18lbs and less timing to give ya an idea. Just a JY 6.0 with a small cam/springs/pushrods/ls9 gaskets/head studs, stock oil pump and timing chain, stock rod bolts, stock intake/tb, running e85 and a good tune.

We run e85 in all our JY builds and make sure your tune is spot on, I'd bet 75% or more of the JY motors die from a tune or bad gas.

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

This is what i was lying in thinking chair, thinking about asking your about, lol.

Wondering if less timing and more boost is easier on a motor then say more timing and less boost.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

I believe Parish tested this on his old truck, and more boost less timing made more power.

atomic 6

And it has been proven many times in the TurboBuick community, more boost and less timing is better than more advance and less boost.

yessir

iTrader: (5)

1+ on what atomic said, this is probly the reason people pop motors with low boost numbers, more fuel, less timing more boost......happier motor

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

Well then, i think with the tuning of this next setup, i will heed this warning/advice and use it

o2camaross

iTrader: (2)

LS9 gaskets, head studs, rob bolts, regap rings to .30, get the tune spot on and give her hell

94 slow

How small was that cam?

IT_SS

iTrader: (5)

LPE GT 2-3 I think

Eagle02

iTrader: (20)

I like this idea very much! I'm good at giving motors hell with these turbo setups!

My current setup is about 15psi @ 16* and it RAN awesome until the timing chain let go.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Low timing more boost with good gas will help a motor live a lot longer. Also keeping it fairly rich high 10's low 11 afr (with gasoline) will also help.

Keep in mind if your spraying a lot of meth especially pure m1 that the stoich ratio is 7 for meth and 14.7 for gas so (meth motors as we will call them here) make plenty of power with low to mid 10:1-10.5 afr ratios. I was backing off the amount of meth I use as it got cooler outside to lean it out and take advantage of the good cool air.

Doing this too much though can burn a hole in the piston from being too lean(over 12 afr) and/or end up making to much power and bend a rod, break a skirt.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

As long as your IATS are under control, I'd go more boost and less timing. With our testing on the street, more timing and less boost will hit the tires WAAAAAAAY harder than the other way around.