My 2000 Trans Am KYTP/PT76GTS/370 build.. IT LIVES!
02-08-2012, 01:12 PM
#22
I cut out the trap door on my dd and have had 0 regrets. I just welded 4 tabs about 1in thick all the way around the door piece so that half overlaps tof floor pan and used some sheet metal screws to secure it with a couple of layers of duct tape to keep noise or whatever from being an issue. It still can be removed and I could possibly change pumps or whatever on the side of the road if needed.
02-08-2012, 01:20 PM
#23
Half of dozen this, half of dozen that. It doesn't matter- both take time. Some hate the idea of cutting their car- oh no!!! Haha. Others could care less.
My vote is drop the tank. Then do a nice job cutting the access panel and making it accessible if need be for future work. I know- double the work. I guess I'm like that. But I don't feel safe with a grinder/cut off wheel that close to wires and such.
My vote is drop the tank. Then do a nice job cutting the access panel and making it accessible if need be for future work. I know- double the work. I guess I'm like that. But I don't feel safe with a grinder/cut off wheel that close to wires and such.
02-08-2012, 05:25 PM
#29
getting mine somewhat dialed in I was pegging my boost gauge at 22+ on the back roads, didnt realize the Precision wastegate had 2 ports on the bottom... one was open. oops. I scattered my other tranny pretty bad because of.... it seemed to go really damn good for the 3 runs I got out or it before I figured out why it was boosting max.
I put a different tranny in it (glide) ripped the Eboost2 off, just put a 18psi spring in it, 14 degrees of timing and took it to the track..... building 11psi at the line and shifting at 5500rpms (didnt know till I reviewed my logs). But a little more work fine tuning it, and turn it up a bit.. see if I can shed a couple lbs. I'd like to think an 8.99 is doable.
I have 317 heads, stock valves, all i did was clean up the bowls a bit.
I put a different tranny in it (glide) ripped the Eboost2 off, just put a 18psi spring in it, 14 degrees of timing and took it to the track..... building 11psi at the line and shifting at 5500rpms (didnt know till I reviewed my logs). But a little more work fine tuning it, and turn it up a bit.. see if I can shed a couple lbs. I'd like to think an 8.99 is doable.
I have 317 heads, stock valves, all i did was clean up the bowls a bit.
02-09-2012, 03:27 PM
#31
We have fuel!
Lonnies performance "Double pumper" kit, duel 340 pumps, -8 feed, -6 return. Nifty quick disconnect for the return attaches to the stock feed port.
Y block, both pump feeds go into the -8
Finished product:
Also removed all the stock lines/evap...My racetronix pump and harness is still in great shape, need to find a buyer
....Just need to hook up the plug and play harness and route the feed and return lines all pretty.
Lonnies performance "Double pumper" kit, duel 340 pumps, -8 feed, -6 return. Nifty quick disconnect for the return attaches to the stock feed port.
Y block, both pump feeds go into the -8
Finished product:
Also removed all the stock lines/evap...My racetronix pump and harness is still in great shape, need to find a buyer
....Just need to hook up the plug and play harness and route the feed and return lines all pretty.
02-09-2012, 03:38 PM
#32
Sounds a lot like my 370 build...I went with a Callies crank, compstar rods, JE slugs, stock 317 heads with stainless intake and inco exhaust valves, katech caps and ARP studs in the mains and holding the heads down, plus every other fastener on the engine is an ARP as well...I'm also targeting 4 digit RWHP...hopefully I'll be able to get it into the car this year...it's been so long coming. Good luck man, keep the pictures coming, you're motivating me!!!
02-10-2012, 12:19 PM
#37
Im certainly going to get it out to the track. I'm not expecting any earth shattering numbers with the 6sp though. Im strongly considering a 4L80 swap right off the bat, but then i think about how much i love driving around.. decisions decisions.
02-13-2012, 06:22 PM
#39
I was going to do the trap door too, but then I decided to do it by dropping the rear because I am all that is man and all, and I was real surprised to find out how easy it was, and I am by no means the most mechanical guy here. It seriously took us about 45 minutes to drop it and work the straps off. i mean all it is is some 5/16 screws and 1/4 inch....remember where the heat shields went and drop the rear down and I didnt even remove my exhaust. it took longer to put the pump in the sending unit. But since the connections to your sending unit are more easily removed it would be beneficial for you later on. This has been a discussion on thread after thread....and personally I think it is more work to make that hole you cut look nice n neat than anything. 
02-14-2012, 02:00 PM
#40
I was going to do the trap door too, but then I decided to do it by dropping the rear because I am all that is man and all, and I was real surprised to find out how easy it was, and I am by no means the most mechanical guy here. It seriously took us about 45 minutes to drop it and work the straps off. i mean all it is is some 5/16 screws and 1/4 inch....remember where the heat shields went and drop the rear down and I didnt even remove my exhaust. it took longer to put the pump in the sending unit. But since the connections to your sending unit are more easily removed it would be beneficial for you later on. This has been a discussion on thread after thread....and personally I think it is more work to make that hole you cut look nice n neat than anything.
I still wanted the convenience of the "hatch" though so i guess it worked out...
anyway on to some progress!
Winter returned to Buffalo with under 20* temps, got my hands on a propane heater... never thought i would be working out in my garage in feb in a t-shirt
Didn't get as much done as i would have liked last night... I did however get EVERYTHING out of the bay (brake lines, harnesses, head light assemblies etc) and got to paint the entire thing (lower frame rails, front rad support etc) Last year i just gave it a quick touch up because my battery exploded previously. By all accounts it looked good. This year i wanted to take advantage of having a completely empty engine bay and get everything. prep prep prep prep
prime and a couple coats of GM light pewter metallic:8PM:
12AM:
Next, it was back to the fuel system
Running the harness/relays etc and mounting everything was a huge pain with the rear end and fuel tank still in the car. The fact that I'm working old school on jack stands doesn't help either. The Y block had mounts on it so i secured it with a couple of bolts as well.. tried to run everything as "clean" as possible in the tight space. Not a great pic as it was a quick point and shoot over my head but you get the idea
next chance i will have to work on it will probably be Wednesday if i can knock a paper out between now and then. Two exams friday, busy week! Next step is to run the lines and harness up to the engine bay.. then comes wiring! hooray! Hopefully my short block is done soon so i can get down to the real stuff!