Home Built D1 System (pics)
Home Built D1 System (pics) I figured I would take some pics of the budget supercharger system that I hack-n-wacked together.
The entire cost of the system was $3800 (thats EVERYTHING). The system has seen ~2000 miles of driving and everything has held up fine.
The system is currently off the car now to do an engine swap (block fix) and paint everything up so its perdy.
All of the stuff for the system was bought at a local Napa or Home improvement store with the exception of the D1 head unit, supercharger mount, and the intercooler core (turbonetics). The intercooler endtanks and all piping, very little, was made by me.
I am by no means a fabricator (check out the welding if you don't believe me
), so if I can do it, then anybody can.
Pics.
The entire cost of the system was $3800 (thats EVERYTHING). The system has seen ~2000 miles of driving and everything has held up fine.
The system is currently off the car now to do an engine swap (block fix) and paint everything up so its perdy.
All of the stuff for the system was bought at a local Napa or Home improvement store with the exception of the D1 head unit, supercharger mount, and the intercooler core (turbonetics). The intercooler endtanks and all piping, very little, was made by me.
I am by no means a fabricator (check out the welding if you don't believe me
), so if I can do it, then anybody can.Pics.
Now thats cooking with crisco! Way to go Kevin. How much is it pullied for?
Since your in the mood, how about making an adjustable "pop off" or whatever valve, that can be adjusted electronically, and limits the amount of boost made, so you (or I) can run a 32psi pulley set, tune it for xxpsi on pump, and then max or xx psi for race with race gas etc???? I still dont understand why this cant be done.
Charlie
Since your in the mood, how about making an adjustable "pop off" or whatever valve, that can be adjusted electronically, and limits the amount of boost made, so you (or I) can run a 32psi pulley set, tune it for xxpsi on pump, and then max or xx psi for race with race gas etc???? I still dont understand why this cant be done.
Charlie
It was pullied for 4-5 psi for the break-in. No WOT power numbers yet.
Crank Pulley 7.85
Blower Pulley 3.85 (RR)
As kind of an experment, I am running a 6 rib system, to see if I can figure out why everybody has problems with these things at high RPM. All the numbers say that we should be able to spin the D1 to ~1200 CFM (55-58k) on a 6 rib. I have modified the pulley assembly (added a couple more for better rap) since the pics and will post up when everything goes back together.
It can be done, but if you crunch the numbers the results are not that good. Running an adjustable pop-off valve is not the way to regulate boost on a supercharger IMO. The amount of HP that the supercharger steals from your motor is a matter of how much it flows.
HP Drive Requirement = Supercharger Flow * Boost
With that being said, if you belted your supercharger for 14 psi and only used 8 your drive consuption would be nearly 150 HP with a net HP gain of about 60 HP at 8 psi. Kind of gay.
If you want regulate HP on a supercharger system with minimal losses to supercharger drive, place your throttle body in front of the supercharger. This eliminates your supercharger producing power that you won't use. To regulate the amount of boost that you want to use, simply place a mechanical stop on your throttle body (ie 75% open would equate 8 psi of boost). When you want to run a race tune, remove the mechanical stop and run at WOT for 12 psi.
Crank Pulley 7.85
Blower Pulley 3.85 (RR)
As kind of an experment, I am running a 6 rib system, to see if I can figure out why everybody has problems with these things at high RPM. All the numbers say that we should be able to spin the D1 to ~1200 CFM (55-58k) on a 6 rib. I have modified the pulley assembly (added a couple more for better rap) since the pics and will post up when everything goes back together.
It can be done, but if you crunch the numbers the results are not that good. Running an adjustable pop-off valve is not the way to regulate boost on a supercharger IMO. The amount of HP that the supercharger steals from your motor is a matter of how much it flows.
HP Drive Requirement = Supercharger Flow * Boost
With that being said, if you belted your supercharger for 14 psi and only used 8 your drive consuption would be nearly 150 HP with a net HP gain of about 60 HP at 8 psi. Kind of gay.
If you want regulate HP on a supercharger system with minimal losses to supercharger drive, place your throttle body in front of the supercharger. This eliminates your supercharger producing power that you won't use. To regulate the amount of boost that you want to use, simply place a mechanical stop on your throttle body (ie 75% open would equate 8 psi of boost). When you want to run a race tune, remove the mechanical stop and run at WOT for 12 psi.
Now I understand. It doesnt make sense to make a limit valve since the SC needs XXX hp to turn! Duh, OMG I feel so dimmly lit right now.
Maybe I should continue on my quest for a twin turbo setup. Wanna fabricate one of those?
Maybe I should continue on my quest for a twin turbo setup. Wanna fabricate one of those?
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Simple. I think it cost about 15 bucks to make.
Cut out the license plate piece on your front bumper. Leave the perpendicular ridge for this is what your frame is going to bolt to.
Go and get a piece of flat 1" wide aluminum plate from your local Home Depot about 2 feet long.
Cut and bend the 1" aluminum to fit inside the cutout you just made of your front bumper. Make it fit tightly.
Drill 4 holes into the plate that you just bent. 2 on top, 2 on bottom.
Use regular screen door material doubled over and stretch it tightly over your frame, wrapping the excess back on itself
Tightly press the frame and mesh into the hole through the backside of your bumper. This stretches the mesh tightly. If done properly, it should hold itself in place.
Use 4 sheet metal screws to secure it to your front bumper through the holes that you drilled.
You can either leave your bumper support material out (I didn't because it makes the nose flimsy) or cut a hole through it to match your new opening up front. I used a handsaw and cut a squarish portion out of the bumper support. I also mounted some sheet metal for a duct to the intercooler.
Cut out the license plate piece on your front bumper. Leave the perpendicular ridge for this is what your frame is going to bolt to.
Go and get a piece of flat 1" wide aluminum plate from your local Home Depot about 2 feet long.
Cut and bend the 1" aluminum to fit inside the cutout you just made of your front bumper. Make it fit tightly.
Drill 4 holes into the plate that you just bent. 2 on top, 2 on bottom.
Use regular screen door material doubled over and stretch it tightly over your frame, wrapping the excess back on itself
Tightly press the frame and mesh into the hole through the backside of your bumper. This stretches the mesh tightly. If done properly, it should hold itself in place.
Use 4 sheet metal screws to secure it to your front bumper through the holes that you drilled.
You can either leave your bumper support material out (I didn't because it makes the nose flimsy) or cut a hole through it to match your new opening up front. I used a handsaw and cut a squarish portion out of the bumper support. I also mounted some sheet metal for a duct to the intercooler.
Originally Posted by kevinb
Very nice work! I have been watching used mustang and other kits selling below $1500 on ebay so maybe you could get one of those kits for just the headunit.
