1990 Mazda RX-7 Street Car (turbo LSx, Powerglide, 8.8")
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1990 Mazda RX-7 (turbo LSx, Powerglide, 8.8") *FINISHED PICS PAGE 6*
I have owned this car since I was 17 (22 now) and up until last fall it had the N/A 1.3l Rotary in it. At that time, I decided to swap it and put in an LS1 with a 236/236 Comp Cam, JTR long tubes, LS6 intake, etc. The setup made 402RWHP on 91 octane through a T56.
Well, I have always been into turbo cars and love the fun that they offer as a driver. Where I live, there aren't too many drag strips (Brainerd International Raceway is about 2 hours away) so most of my driving is done to and from work and to the grocery store. Of course, I still go out for some fun at night but the best times in my car are alone on the highway doing 30-100MPH pulls.
So, with that said, this is my quest to build a 700RWHP, 9 second daily driver that runs on gas that can be purchased anywhere (91 octane) and uses tires that can be used in the rain, if necessary (while it is a DD, it's a fair weather only car). I want to drive it to and from the track, up to my cabin, etc. So with that said, here's my build list. Please keep in mind that the motor has not been to the machine shop yet so the motor part of the list is subject to change. Otherwise, I have purchased pretty much everything else with the exception of the transmission and converter.
Motor:
2003 LQ4 (6.0L, 370ci)
Forged Callies rods and Wiseco pistons (still undecided on specifics)
ARP rod bolts
ARP head bolts
Lingenfelter GT2-3 (207/220 .571/.578 w 1.7 rocker 118.5 CL)
Comp Cams 26918 valve springs
Comp Cams 7.400" Hi-Tech pushrods
LS2 timing chain
Melling "296" high flow oil pump with high pressure spring
LS7 Lifters
Lokar throttle cable
Lokar throttle cable bracket
Lokar engine dipstick
King Main Bearings
King Rod Bearings
LS6 Intake manifold
Ported stock throttle body
Fuel:
Injector Dynamics ID1000 (1000cc) Fuel Injectors
2x 255lph Walbro In Tank Fuel Pumps
Corvette Fuel Pressure Regulator
Turbo setup:
Turbonetics TC76 (.96 A/R, F1 turbine wheel)
Turbosmart 48mm Pro Gate external wastegate
Turbosmart 52mm Race Port BOV
SSAutoChrome 24x12x13 FMIC
2000* Jet-Hot On All Hot Side Components
Cooling:
26"x19" Speedway Tru-Cool GM Aluminum Radiator
Spal 16" Electric Fan
Custom Lower Radiator Mounts and Fan Shroud
Drivetrain:
Built TH400 by Jake Carlson (manual valve body with trans brake)
B&M Ratchet Shifter
Granny's Speed Shop motor mounts
Ronin Speedworks 8.8" mount kit
2002 Ford Explorer 8.8" IRS Trac Loc with 3.27 gears/LSD
Driveline Specialties Custom Driveshaft
Granny's Speed Shop Transmission Cross Member
Energy Suspensions Polyurethane Transmission Mount
Mazdatrix Rear Differential Mounts
Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes:
Front: Enkei RPF1 17x8.5 with Nitto NT05 (235/40/17)
Rear: Enkei RPF1 17x10 with Nitto NT05R Drag Radials (275/40/17)
BC Racing Coilovers
MMR Rear Camber Adjusters
Hawk HPS Pads
Mazdatrix Stainless Steel Brake Lines
AMSOIL Series 600 DOT4 Brake Fluid
Gauges:
Autometer 3 3/8th Speedometer
Autometer 3 3/8th Tachometer
Autometer 2 1/16th Voltage Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Fuel Level Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Oil Temperature Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Water Temperature Gauge
AEM Huego Digital Wideband O2 Gauge
AEM 35PSI Digital Boost Gauge
Interior/Miscellaneous:
2002 Dodge Viper GTS Seats
Auto Power 4 Point Race Roll Bar
Acura TSX HID retrofits (OEM housings, 25w 4300k bulbs)
CorkSport Front Lip Spoiler
Shine Auto Project Roof Spoiler
Here is the car as it was with the LS1 in it:
Here's the turbo kit:
Here's the rear end mount (it retains absolute stock mounting locations):
Here's a picture of some elses rear end in the mount (just so you guys know what it should look like):
Intake cleaned and painted:
Wideband/boost gauges:
FMIC mounted (I'll be taking it back off to repaint the front of the car):
Axles:
My DD is a Mopar by the way... an '05 SRT-4 that makes 340WHP:
Now that winter is setting in up here in the Northwoods, I'm going to start making some progress on the build.
Well, I have always been into turbo cars and love the fun that they offer as a driver. Where I live, there aren't too many drag strips (Brainerd International Raceway is about 2 hours away) so most of my driving is done to and from work and to the grocery store. Of course, I still go out for some fun at night but the best times in my car are alone on the highway doing 30-100MPH pulls.
So, with that said, this is my quest to build a 700RWHP, 9 second daily driver that runs on gas that can be purchased anywhere (91 octane) and uses tires that can be used in the rain, if necessary (while it is a DD, it's a fair weather only car). I want to drive it to and from the track, up to my cabin, etc. So with that said, here's my build list. Please keep in mind that the motor has not been to the machine shop yet so the motor part of the list is subject to change. Otherwise, I have purchased pretty much everything else with the exception of the transmission and converter.
Motor:
2003 LQ4 (6.0L, 370ci)
Forged Callies rods and Wiseco pistons (still undecided on specifics)
ARP rod bolts
ARP head bolts
Lingenfelter GT2-3 (207/220 .571/.578 w 1.7 rocker 118.5 CL)
Comp Cams 26918 valve springs
Comp Cams 7.400" Hi-Tech pushrods
LS2 timing chain
Melling "296" high flow oil pump with high pressure spring
LS7 Lifters
Lokar throttle cable
Lokar throttle cable bracket
Lokar engine dipstick
King Main Bearings
King Rod Bearings
LS6 Intake manifold
Ported stock throttle body
Fuel:
Injector Dynamics ID1000 (1000cc) Fuel Injectors
2x 255lph Walbro In Tank Fuel Pumps
Corvette Fuel Pressure Regulator
Turbo setup:
Turbonetics TC76 (.96 A/R, F1 turbine wheel)
Turbosmart 48mm Pro Gate external wastegate
Turbosmart 52mm Race Port BOV
SSAutoChrome 24x12x13 FMIC
2000* Jet-Hot On All Hot Side Components
Cooling:
26"x19" Speedway Tru-Cool GM Aluminum Radiator
Spal 16" Electric Fan
Custom Lower Radiator Mounts and Fan Shroud
Drivetrain:
Built TH400 by Jake Carlson (manual valve body with trans brake)
B&M Ratchet Shifter
Granny's Speed Shop motor mounts
Ronin Speedworks 8.8" mount kit
2002 Ford Explorer 8.8" IRS Trac Loc with 3.27 gears/LSD
Driveline Specialties Custom Driveshaft
Granny's Speed Shop Transmission Cross Member
Energy Suspensions Polyurethane Transmission Mount
Mazdatrix Rear Differential Mounts
Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes:
Front: Enkei RPF1 17x8.5 with Nitto NT05 (235/40/17)
Rear: Enkei RPF1 17x10 with Nitto NT05R Drag Radials (275/40/17)
BC Racing Coilovers
MMR Rear Camber Adjusters
Hawk HPS Pads
Mazdatrix Stainless Steel Brake Lines
AMSOIL Series 600 DOT4 Brake Fluid
Gauges:
Autometer 3 3/8th Speedometer
Autometer 3 3/8th Tachometer
Autometer 2 1/16th Voltage Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Fuel Level Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Oil Temperature Gauge
Autometer 2 1/16th Water Temperature Gauge
AEM Huego Digital Wideband O2 Gauge
AEM 35PSI Digital Boost Gauge
Interior/Miscellaneous:
2002 Dodge Viper GTS Seats
Auto Power 4 Point Race Roll Bar
Acura TSX HID retrofits (OEM housings, 25w 4300k bulbs)
CorkSport Front Lip Spoiler
Shine Auto Project Roof Spoiler
Here is the car as it was with the LS1 in it:
Here's the turbo kit:
Here's the rear end mount (it retains absolute stock mounting locations):
Here's a picture of some elses rear end in the mount (just so you guys know what it should look like):
Intake cleaned and painted:
Wideband/boost gauges:
FMIC mounted (I'll be taking it back off to repaint the front of the car):
Axles:
My DD is a Mopar by the way... an '05 SRT-4 that makes 340WHP:
Now that winter is setting in up here in the Northwoods, I'm going to start making some progress on the build.
Last edited by DavidPHumes; 08-26-2013 at 08:57 AM.
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Should be right around 3,000lbs with me in it and a tank of fuel. Keep in mind it has full interior, stereo, power windows/mirrors, carpet, etc. It might end up being less, but not by much.
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Thank you!
Thanks... it's been a long haul.
Haha, typing fail. If you have any questions let me know...
It's got a lot of clear coat on it
Nope, there's 2 other red LS FC's in MN, so probably one of those. I live up in Duluth.
Thanks! Everyone's so impressed by how much room is in the bay.
Alright, so I finally got the IC finished up (still need to do piping, but I have to get the motor in to do that and I still need to find an oil pan/windage tray/pickup tube):
The top is hard mounted:
I wanted some play in the IC, so I used these cut down rubber stops to help protect what little movement it may have (the IC pipes will hold it even more securely):
HID ballasts mounted way out of the way (don't mine the small amount of over spray ):
And a view from the back:
Thanks... it's been a long haul.
Alright, so I finally got the IC finished up (still need to do piping, but I have to get the motor in to do that and I still need to find an oil pan/windage tray/pickup tube):
The top is hard mounted:
I wanted some play in the IC, so I used these cut down rubber stops to help protect what little movement it may have (the IC pipes will hold it even more securely):
HID ballasts mounted way out of the way (don't mine the small amount of over spray ):
And a view from the back:
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Some very small updates:
Got my roll bar today (AutoPower 4 point "race" roll bar). I'm having it powder coated black.
I know this thing probably doesn't meet NHRA rules for how fast I will be going, but as I said, this is 99% street car. If I can run a good solid pass and get kicked off, I'm fine with that. It will also be safe on the street as the top hoop is behind my head and behind the seat (the seat almost reaches the roof of the car).
I'm still going to take the girlfriend out to dinner in this thing (and drive it to work, and the grocery store, etc. etc.).
I also took the heads off of my 6.0 today. Found some major scoring in cylinder wall #3. This reaffirms my decision to put in a forged rotating assembly (I know I could get by with a hone and new rings, but what's the point of putting stock stuff back in if I'm going through all the work anyway?)
The motor looks like it was used pretty hard - lots of build up, etc. but other than the scoring looks to be intact (the scoring was really really obvious when running one's finger over it).
Got my roll bar today (AutoPower 4 point "race" roll bar). I'm having it powder coated black.
I know this thing probably doesn't meet NHRA rules for how fast I will be going, but as I said, this is 99% street car. If I can run a good solid pass and get kicked off, I'm fine with that. It will also be safe on the street as the top hoop is behind my head and behind the seat (the seat almost reaches the roof of the car).
I'm still going to take the girlfriend out to dinner in this thing (and drive it to work, and the grocery store, etc. etc.).
I also took the heads off of my 6.0 today. Found some major scoring in cylinder wall #3. This reaffirms my decision to put in a forged rotating assembly (I know I could get by with a hone and new rings, but what's the point of putting stock stuff back in if I'm going through all the work anyway?)
The motor looks like it was used pretty hard - lots of build up, etc. but other than the scoring looks to be intact (the scoring was really really obvious when running one's finger over it).