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FI-98X....question

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Old 09-25-2011, 11:36 PM
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run a big shot that simply turns off via a hobb switch at 10 or 15 pounds of boost
Old 09-26-2011, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Last night someone told me while I was out that thats what you probably meant. My friend was agreeing maybe a 100 shot would be a great addition.

I was gonna ask what the limits are to how large of a shot you can out on top of a turbo set-up like I want to do. Or maybe its not being large that matters, its just getting it spooled that matters.............

.
From what I have seen, most run a 50-125 dry shot, and use the computer's ve table to add fuel in the rpm range the nitrous is engaged with the injectors instead of using a wet shot with a fuel jet that may drop rail pressure when it hits. Also if you run a dry shot you could spray it pre turbo and get a much bigger IAT drop than if ran post turbo. Some spray it directly into the intercooler with spray bars. Also nitrous will make more boost when it's engaged so fuel will also need to be added in the rpm range the nitrous isn't on, just maybe not as much as the rpm range where it will be active and engaged. A window switch set at 50rpm higher than what you launch at, so when you come off the footbrake or t brake the n20 is on, and it gets your *** out the hole, once the turbo hits full boost, I'd say 50-100rpm later turn the nitrous off.

Simple as that. Or you can do it through tuning, i.e. making timing adjustments, fueling adjustments, rpm limiter adjustments while on the footbrake or transbrake to spool the turbo like most do.
Old 09-26-2011, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
From what I have seen, most run a 50-125 dry shot, and use the computer's ve table to add fuel in the rpm range the nitrous is engaged with the injectors instead of using a wet shot with a fuel jet that may drop rail pressure when it hits. Also if you run a dry shot you could spray it pre turbo and get a much bigger IAT drop than if ran post turbo. Some spray it directly into the intercooler with spray bars. Also nitrous will make more boost when it's engaged so fuel will also need to be added in the rpm range the nitrous isn't on, just maybe not as much as the rpm range where it will be active and engaged. A window switch set at 50rpm higher than what you launch at, so when you come off the footbrake or t brake the n20 is on, and it gets your *** out the hole, once the turbo hits full boost, I'd say 50-100rpm later turn the nitrous off.

Simple as that. Or you can do it through tuning, i.e. making timing adjustments, fueling adjustments, rpm limiter adjustments while on the footbrake or transbrake to spool the turbo like most do.
Interesting.....

It would never be doing launches though....just roll races. But I guess everything you said pertains to a rolling launch as well.

Going to my builder Saturday...........gonna chat about this whole silly *** idea of making 1,300 RWHP.....

.
Old 09-27-2011, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Full time race gas.




Why will twins be better? Elimination of turbo lag????

I'm not stuck on a single......just thought it would be easier to keep A/C....which is a must.

.

Properly sized twins will spool a lot faster. Hell, LS2Formula went 7.87@179.9 with a 422 LSX and twin TC78's. His car has all of the interior and A/C. It's making at least 1500hp to do that. Now he is going to run PT 76's. Like someone else said small twins are actually a bit easier to package.
Old 09-28-2011, 11:54 AM
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i had an S91 on a 408 and 18psi it would hook and go no problem on some 335 hoosiers drs. that was 1000rwhp thru a th400. it was laggy from a roll, my first setup was a pt88 370cu and on 18psi it spooled much faster...now i have a 420cu with a 101mm no street time on it yet.

oh and the s91 was non intercooler with alky injection,
Old 09-28-2011, 05:35 PM
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You will not hook 1300 rwhp on the street, even at 100 mph. It may hook when you hit it but when the power comes in, it'll blow the tires off. Regardless, most bikes wont want to start at that high of a speed as the aero is already becoming a factor for them there. Well, not the smart ones anyway. A smaller more responsive setup that hooks good from a 60 roll would work better.

The other huge factor is that it is very difficult to package a big thumper like that in an fbody. Specially if you want to stay true to the "street car" thing.
Old 09-28-2011, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
You will not hook 1300 rwhp on the street, even at 100 mph.
Respectfully disagree....drive on down to Miami and watch them all night long for yourself. They roll into the throttles in 2-3 seconds from 50mph rolls.....and smoke Hyabusas to 170mph......

The other huge factor is that it is very difficult to package a big thumper like that in an fbody. Specially if you want to stay true to the "street car" thing.
If I do this it'll be a weekend fun car........I wouldn't care if it loses some "street" manors. There's no reason to build a 1,000 RWHP...its been done to death down here. Then you'll get walked by a 1,200 RWHP. That would feel terrible after spending so much money and time. If I do it, it will make 1,300 RWHP or more, or I won't bother. Money really isn't the issue, its a matter of do I want to have this kind of "toy" that I know will be breaking all the damn time.

I see my builder Saturday. OH....I guess it left the shop awhile ago..............

.
Old 09-29-2011, 07:02 AM
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^those are not 1300rwhp car, just because a guy in the parkinglot says it is. probably a couple of 8-900 hp cars, busa are not that fast.



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