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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 09:31 AM
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Default 5.3 turbo questions

I just picked up a 5.3 and a 4l80 well I guess I stole it. $20 from my work (2003 van included) 136,000 miles.

Should I build this for a turbo motor or find a 6.0. I am putting this combo in my 81 Malibu and I am very undecided on a large single or twins and plan on replacing rods and pistons if needed. My plan is 317 heads I have 241's and 853s and what ever is on the 5.3. Custom cam, carb style intake with elbo and 90mm tb. with matched injectors. This will need to be a car I can drive to the track 60 miles one way and home. I would like to see 750+whp race tune and what ever on pump gas street tune.

Also I am trying to keep the whole build under $7500. tell me what direction will be the most reliable and best option for what I have or just sell it and start with a 6.0.

Btw for turbo options I was looking at a single 95mm or twin mp76s
realistically I want to go mid to high 8's in the 1/4 and drive it back home stock suspension drag radial car.

sorry for the long post and questions.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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Single 95 might need some more cubes. Twin 76 has been done on a 4.8.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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http://youtu.be/RLrYPunJwbk
http://youtu.be/8PKAUDqoZjg

Twin turbo 5.3 Studs, cammed, 317 heads, 4l80e on 13ish psi 587wheel hp. not sure what it does on 15.5 but one could say its over 600 wheel. Stock bottom end other then studs.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 12:08 PM
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Thats awesome Kickergt.

So Basically what you guys are saying is keep the 5.3 and spend the money on the top end and turbo set up?
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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Correct. Build it once build it right. this 5.3 has been getting the **** kicked out of it from day one and is still alive. The pin is pulled on the grenade but as long as your tuner is worth his salt you are golden you will have a blast.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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Going a step further with mine. Head studs, arp rod bolts, rings, cam, valve springs and an intake manifold. Going twin 76 for now.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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So is there really a need in me putting new rods and pistons in this combo or just putting new arp bolts in the rods and studding the block be fine with new rings and bearings?

My car will be about 3500-3600#s with me and I would love to go some 8's and drive the day lights out of it. I live 12 miles away from the closest gas station so drivability and durability is a big deal.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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I am just not throwing a ton of cash into it till I make sure it works well in my swap. If I like it I will build the bottom end with pistons and rods.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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I will keep and eye on funds and maybe atleast order a set of diamond pistons for it for now.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Texas speed sells rods and pistons at a pretty good price if you end up tossing a build at it. but there are people making an assload of power on stock bottom ends. But the pin is pulled on the grenade.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Mid to high 8s and drive it back home. Im all about beating the **** out of stock motors, but if your goals are to go that fast in a car like that, i would strongly consider forging that motor.

I agree, the stock motor and can take a beating, but one screw up, and your 7500 dollar budget just doubled.

Just my opinion. LIke i said, im all for it, hell i do it, and i know when it brakes, its going to be down for a LONG time, being that im not the richest person in the world.

I can honestly say if i were building an 8sec car, and that was the real intended goal of the vehicle, i would be ready for that motor to break.

But, in the end, i say let her eat. Itll be fun.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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I agree Jax. I am conserned about it breaking but i have another car if it does break. The malibu is just a toy. I still have my everyday drivers and my 99 trans am. This car will be just for ****'s N giggles to say the least. But I still want reliable that's why I am trying to get my ducks in a row before I start making purchases. I want the best bang for the money. My uncle owns a machine shop so machine work cost basically nothing. All I have to worry about is parts and labor (which I do myself).

Fortunatly I have built many motors and many different combos with blowers and nitrous and haven't lost one yet. But LS stuff is a whole new ball game for me.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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Sounds good man, i was just saying yesterday how much i wish i was buddies with or had a family member with a machine shop, lol.

Anyway, if its not a big big deal, i say go for it. When it pops, fix it, lol.

I oughta send my block up their for machine work, lol
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Kickergt
Twin turbo 5.3 Studs, cammed, 317 heads, 4l80e on 13ish psi 587wheel hp. not sure what it does on 15.5 but one could say its over 600 wheel. Stock bottom end other then studs.

what turbos or on it?
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarg
Going a step further with mine. Head studs, arp rod bolts, rings, cam, valve springs and an intake manifold. Going twin 76 for now.
if you make the turbo too big, you will have a bear of time spooling it. one 76 will get you high 5s in the 8th on a 5.3, two will make 1500hp+

i would do two 60s on a 5.3 . that would max out around 1200hp but will spool a lot better than twin 76s.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 71 chevy
if you make the turbo too big, you will have a bear of time spooling it. one 76 will get you high 5s in the 8th on a 5.3, two will make 1500hp+

i would do two 60s on a 5.3 . that would max out around 1200hp but will spool a lot better than twin 76s.

As I understand it. (I am probably wrong) But doesn't primary size and other factors like exaust housings come into play when spooling a turbo? I am used to pulling 1.21 to 1.24 60's with a blown bbc on a 10" tire. but I am willing to sacrafic the 60' for some TEC and more street manors. I can handle coming out of the hole easy and coming on like a train.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 08:32 AM
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Turbine AR and piping diameter can play a large role, but the other thing to think about is turbine and compressor efficiency. Twin 76 ebay turbos is probably a lot different than twin s475 borg warner turbos. I have yet to see them in person (although a friend has one at his place now!) But I can't imagine them being as efficient as a better turbo. My personal goal is for this to be more of a drag set up, so hitting full boost at 4500-5000 is fine. If I do the 76's rather than the 70's I will go with a .68 AR turbine housing to try to promote better spool up.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Lilsbc
As I understand it. (I am probably wrong) But doesn't primary size and other factors like exaust housings come into play when spooling a turbo? I am used to pulling 1.21 to 1.24 60's with a blown bbc on a 10" tire. but I am willing to sacrafic the 60' for some TEC and more street manors. I can handle coming out of the hole easy and coming on like a train.
they do, but so do your turbos. if your spool is lazy down low, you then have to have a converter that flashes higher but gives up top end efficiency or even blows through the converter under high boost.

are you trying to make 1600 horses? no. you are trying to make approx 950hp.
twin 57s would be ideal for your goals for street and track with great spool and great top end charge. twin 76s, with the smallest ar you can find, you will hate on the street, and at the line, and it may even be in the surge zone and destroy the turbos .

get the turbo that matches your goals. and that twin 57s or 60s on the high end.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarg
Turbine AR and piping diameter can play a large role, but the other thing to think about is turbine and compressor efficiency. Twin 76 ebay turbos is probably a lot different than twin s475 borg warner turbos. I have yet to see them in person (although a friend has one at his place now!) But I can't imagine them being as efficient as a better turbo. My personal goal is for this to be more of a drag set up, so hitting full boost at 4500-5000 is fine. If I do the 76's rather than the 70's I will go with a .68 AR turbine housing to try to promote better spool up.
again, a single 76 on a 5.3 can hit high 8s. for your goals you need twin 57s.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 71 chevy
they do, but so do your turbos. if your spool is lazy down low, you then have to have a converter that flashes higher but gives up top end efficiency or even blows through the converter under high boost.

are you trying to make 1600 horses? no. you are trying to make approx 950hp.
twin 57s would be ideal for your goals for street and track with great spool and great top end charge. twin 76s, with the smallest ar you can find, you will hate on the street, and at the line, and it may even be in the surge zone and destroy the turbos .

get the turbo that matches your goals. and that twin 57s or 60s on the high end.
Thats the type of info I need thanks. I was thinking of a turbo system I could use when I upgrade and go larger eventually and not have to buy turbo's again. I would like to make 950whp not flywheel hp. I don't know if that was what you meant. Where can I find info on how to do the math on this type of thing?
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