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Confused. Vented or sealed catch can?

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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 01:51 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
pm'd you!
Me too! I plan on running an LS6 Valley cover with both valve covers plumbed to a catch can. I'd definitely like to run it the proper way.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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Side note... if boosted, you'll need some one way check valves between the catch can and the intake manifold and the TB.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HRHohio
Side note... if boosted, you'll need some one way check valves between the catch can and the intake manifold and the TB.
absolutely, or incorporate one in the top exit of the catch can!
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
absolutely, or incorporate one in the top exit of the catch can!

Exactly. A checkvalve/ PCV (one way... not orifice) valve between the top hose off the catch can and the Intake Manifold will do it. Actually, for boosted apps, you should cap the line off the TB. Otherwise that's a boost leak straight to the crankcase. Not good and will add more pressure into the crankcase. Not needed.
(Nice Pic by the way, whoever's it is.)

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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 08:11 AM
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thanks, thats on a 550rw horse ls7 (n/a build) i did a can for.
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by pwrtrip75
If you dont want the gasses back in your engine run them out the exhaust. I just used the factory check valve off the air pump system and attach it the sealed catch can. It constantly generates vacuum to the canister.
But couldn't you just just a check valve and let the pressure bleed off on its own? Like run a tube down toward bottom of the K-member? I would assume this would cause some oil residue where it would bleed off.
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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All i ended up doing was running a line from each valve cover, to a breather can. I have not had any problems yet. But i don't daily drive. Or have not taken it to the track as of yet. Until i get the tune in check. And being on an island. Its hard to fund a tuner. So been just trying to learn efilive my self. but here is a picture.
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 02:21 PM
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^^^ where you get that can at?
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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I got it from ebay actually. Someone back then was selling powder coated breather cans. Its basically the same as the Allstar breather can. its baffled inside.
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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Nice just need a breather catch can with an line connections
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pwrtrip75
A catch can alone is not a PCV system it does nothing except collect oil that would have splashed out your breathers if they were on the engine. A relocation of the breather is all it is.

If you dont want the gasses back in your engine run them out the exhaust. I just used the factory check valve off the air pump system and attach it the sealed catch can. It constantly generates vacuum to the canister.

I thought you weren't suppose to run it in the exhaust with mufflers? Won't you have burning oil smell?
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FlipediS
All i ended up doing was running a line from each valve cover, to a breather can. I have not had any problems yet. But i don't daily drive. Or have not taken it to the track as of yet. Until i get the tune in check. And being on an island. Its hard to fund a tuner. So been just trying to learn efilive my self. but here is a picture.
This works to relieve crankcase pressures when in boost, but doesn't do a good job in ventilating the crankcase under vacuum (the other 90% of the time) . All that steam that condenses a a by-product of combustion and blows past your rings will condense in your oil pan. Essentially your oil pan becomes a catch can. Not the best for oil life. Turns it to goop pretty quick, especially in the winter.

Might not be a bad idea to connect a line from passenger front valve cover to intake manifold with a one way check valve to allow the crank case to breathe when not in boost. It would draw fresh air back through your catch can and help get rid of the crank case vapors. Just a suggestion.
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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Buy the can from mightymouse, run a line from each valve cover to the two bottom ports on the catch can. Run the top port on the catch can to the intake. Cap the TB and the rear port on the passenger side valve cover. Done. It's cheap too.

Last edited by LT1RAY; Jan 15, 2013 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 12:01 PM
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I've heard that one issue with the LS1 pcv system is that the oil shoots into the driver side head right where the vacuum line is at, which causes issues with a lot of oil getting into the pcv plumbing. Isn't this correct?

I'm having a pretty bad oil leak, and the pcv plumbing is actually rotted in two spots, one being in the back. They are saying this is probably where it's coming from. I was planning on just swapping to the new 04+ ls6 pcv system, and call ing it a day.

Is the oil shooting up in that area on the driver side head accurate? If so, I can imagine this being why I have quite a bit of oil dripping. It's not the OPSU, or cam sensor either, because those were replaced thinking that's what the problem was initially.
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 12:45 PM
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So what are your thoughts on my Rx CC setup. It came this way and I got it because I heard it was the best. It came with directions on where to hook it up, but after reading this, I am pretty sure I have been dooped for a crappy $200+ can. My dipstick did shoot out on the dyno before it went.

Also they sent a breather to replace the oil cap that has a one way check valve on it.

I do not want oil going into my intercooler or intake or oil. Thats what this is starting to look like is going to happen. I thought Rx was going to be better than this, but it looks like its just for show.

The can itself apparently has dual check valves in it based on what I am told. Is there a way to fix this, or do I just need to chunk it and get with Dave?


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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 10:08 PM
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there are baffles in all ls valve covers to deflect oil from shooting or flinging directly on the pcv exit. some better some worse.

i8urfrd i am not familiar with their one way valve for the oil cap, but if they sent it you should use it!

im also not familiar with the insides of their can set up, but there's more than one way to skin a cat!

hooking direct to valley cover vs. valve cover is pretty restrictive 'exit' for any high hp blow by. i run off each valve cover which is basically unrestricted. and run the valley cover separate to the sc/turbo inlet if available.
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 10:41 PM
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Mightymouse, make sure I am on the same page here, you will take an LS6 style valley cover PCV strait to the inlet of a turbo/SC? I have never though of doing that. I upgraded my 98 to the new style awhile back but just ran the valley hose to the can and back behind the tb.
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 05:24 PM
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yes thats right, or certainly its an option!
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE

i8urfrd i am not familiar with their one way valve for the oil cap, but if they sent it you should use it!
Well, If you could help me out that would be great. I have an ls2 valley cover. I know with an ls6 valley cover you vent with the cover itself, unlike the LS1 cars. I am unsure of if the same is true for the LS2 valley cover.


Diagram of current routing plan

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It seems to me you could add a T between the two rears and get a little bit better flow without compromising it, but maybe not. I hate PCV.


Cutaway and discussion of the can.


Last edited by I8UR4RD; Jan 5, 2013 at 06:28 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 12:50 PM
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Bought a can from MM, can't wait to get it. Will finally have my answer for street use with my car without oil contamination.
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