F110Mech

iTrader: (2)

Me too! I plan on running an LS6 Valley cover with both valve covers plumbed to a catch can. I'd definitely like to run it the proper way.

HRHohio

Side note... if boosted, you'll need some one way check valves between the catch can and the intake manifold and the TB.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

absolutely, or incorporate one in the top exit of the catch can!

HRHohio

Exactly. A checkvalve/ PCV (one way... not orifice) valve between the top hose off the catch can and the Intake Manifold will do it. Actually, for boosted apps, you should cap the line off the TB. Otherwise that's a boost leak straight to the crankcase. Not good and will add more pressure into the crankcase. Not needed.
(Nice Pic by the way, whoever's it is.)

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

thanks, thats on a 550rw horse ls7 (n/a build) i did a can for.

GMouldy

But couldn't you just just a check valve and let the pressure bleed off on its own? Like run a tube down toward bottom of the K-member? I would assume this would cause some oil residue where it would bleed off.

FlipediS

iTrader: (7)

All i ended up doing was running a line from each valve cover, to a breather can. I have not had any problems yet. But i don't daily drive. Or have not taken it to the track as of yet. Until i get the tune in check. And being on an island. Its hard to fund a tuner. So been just trying to learn efilive my self. but here is a picture.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

^^^ where you get that can at?

FlipediS

iTrader: (7)

I got it from ebay actually. Someone back then was selling powder coated breather cans. Its basically the same as the Allstar breather can. its baffled inside.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Nice just need a breather catch can with an line connections

edge04

iTrader: (9)

I thought you weren't suppose to run it in the exhaust with mufflers? Won't you have burning oil smell?

HRHohio

This works to relieve crankcase pressures when in boost, but doesn't do a good job in ventilating the crankcase under vacuum (the other 90% of the time) . All that steam that condenses a a by-product of combustion and blows past your rings will condense in your oil pan. Essentially your oil pan becomes a catch can. Not the best for oil life. Turns it to goop pretty quick, especially in the winter.

Might not be a bad idea to connect a line from passenger front valve cover to intake manifold with a one way check valve to allow the crank case to breathe when not in boost. It would draw fresh air back through your catch can and help get rid of the crank case vapors. Just a suggestion.

LT1RAY

iTrader: (21)

Buy the can from mightymouse, run a line from each valve cover to the two bottom ports on the catch can. Run the top port on the catch can to the intake. Cap the TB and the rear port on the passenger side valve cover. Done. It's cheap too.

fbodlovr

I've heard that one issue with the LS1 pcv system is that the oil shoots into the driver side head right where the vacuum line is at, which causes issues with a lot of oil getting into the pcv plumbing. Isn't this correct?

I'm having a pretty bad oil leak, and the pcv plumbing is actually rotted in two spots, one being in the back. They are saying this is probably where it's coming from. I was planning on just swapping to the new 04+ ls6 pcv system, and call ing it a day.

Is the oil shooting up in that area on the driver side head accurate? If so, I can imagine this being why I have quite a bit of oil dripping. It's not the OPSU, or cam sensor either, because those were replaced thinking that's what the problem was initially.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

So what are your thoughts on my Rx CC setup. It came this way and I got it because I heard it was the best. It came with directions on where to hook it up, but after reading this, I am pretty sure I have been dooped for a crappy $200+ can. My dipstick did shoot out on the dyno before it went.

Also they sent a breather to replace the oil cap that has a one way check valve on it.

I do not want oil going into my intercooler or intake or oil. Thats what this is starting to look like is going to happen. I thought Rx was going to be better than this, but it looks like its just for show.

The can itself apparently has dual check valves in it based on what I am told. Is there a way to fix this, or do I just need to chunk it and get with Dave?

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

there are baffles in all ls valve covers to deflect oil from shooting or flinging directly on the pcv exit. some better some worse.

i8urfrd i am not familiar with their one way valve for the oil cap, but if they sent it you should use it!

im also not familiar with the insides of their can set up, but there's more than one way to skin a cat!

hooking direct to valley cover vs. valve cover is pretty restrictive 'exit' for any high hp blow by. i run off each valve cover which is basically unrestricted. and run the valley cover separate to the sc/turbo inlet if available.

Spade

iTrader: (26)

Mightymouse, make sure I am on the same page here, you will take an LS6 style valley cover PCV strait to the inlet of a turbo/SC? I have never though of doing that. I upgraded my 98 to the new style awhile back but just ran the valley hose to the can and back behind the tb.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

yes thats right, or certainly its an option!

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

Well, If you could help me out that would be great. I have an ls2 valley cover. I know with an ls6 valley cover you vent with the cover itself, unlike the LS1 cars. I am unsure of if the same is true for the LS2 valley cover.


Diagram of current routing plan




It seems to me you could add a T between the two rears and get a little bit better flow without compromising it, but maybe not. I hate PCV.


Cutaway and discussion of the can.

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

Bought a can from MM, can't wait to get it. Will finally have my answer for street use with my car without oil contamination.