turbo 5.3
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 150
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turbo 5.3 i was wondering has anyone changed there pistons and rods for boost? if so whta kind are you running, and compression. i am in the process of the build and i am trying to get all the fact in order so its done one and will last awhile, looking for 650-700 rwhp. i have 80lb injectors, t78 turbo 50mm bov, truck manifolds, gonna order a front mount,etc.. and this is gonna be dd as well. also was wondering should i go with the factory pcm or should i use the fast system?? for tuning? thanks in advance
-Tony
-Tony
You should bore it out so you can run LS1 bore size pistons.
If you are going thru that much trouble though.... just build a 6.0 from the get go. The 4.0" bore opens your options for larger valves which will be less shrouded and flow more. You can't bore out a 5.3 liter to 4.0" inches.
If you have the money aftermarket fuel injection is better.... but factory works with a good tuner.
If you are going thru that much trouble though.... just build a 6.0 from the get go. The 4.0" bore opens your options for larger valves which will be less shrouded and flow more. You can't bore out a 5.3 liter to 4.0" inches.
If you have the money aftermarket fuel injection is better.... but factory works with a good tuner.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,425
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I would think if your goal is only 650-700hp you would be fine with the stock pistons, rods, heads without much issue. Here is my build and my goal is 800+rwhp in a 69 Chevelle.
5.3 with 64,000 miles running.
Stock pistons, rods, heads
Arp rod bolts, arp head stud kit, ring gap opened, patriot gold dual valve springs, chromoly 3/8 pushrods
XER273 224/230 .581/.588 lift
Twin pt62's/58AR 40mm wastegates, manual boost control, factory ecm
E85.
My plan is to run around 15lbs of boost but less than 20lbs. If I can't reach my goal at 19lbs then so be it. I want it to live for a couple years if I can. From what I understand there is a point where you want to go forged pistons, etc..but I don't think 700hp was it. I think it was around 800. Just thought I would throw that out there.
5.3 with 64,000 miles running.
Stock pistons, rods, heads
Arp rod bolts, arp head stud kit, ring gap opened, patriot gold dual valve springs, chromoly 3/8 pushrods
XER273 224/230 .581/.588 lift
Twin pt62's/58AR 40mm wastegates, manual boost control, factory ecm
E85.
My plan is to run around 15lbs of boost but less than 20lbs. If I can't reach my goal at 19lbs then so be it. I want it to live for a couple years if I can. From what I understand there is a point where you want to go forged pistons, etc..but I don't think 700hp was it. I think it was around 800. Just thought I would throw that out there.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
You should bore it out so you can run LS1 bore size pistons.
If you are going thru that much trouble though.... just build a 6.0 from the get go. The 4.0" bore opens your options for larger valves which will be less shrouded and flow more. You can't bore out a 5.3 liter to 4.0" inches.
If you have the money aftermarket fuel injection is better.... but factory works with a good tuner.
If you are going thru that much trouble though.... just build a 6.0 from the get go. The 4.0" bore opens your options for larger valves which will be less shrouded and flow more. You can't bore out a 5.3 liter to 4.0" inches.
If you have the money aftermarket fuel injection is better.... but factory works with a good tuner.
I would think if your goal is only 650-700hp you would be fine with the stock pistons, rods, heads without much issue. Here is my build and my goal is 800+rwhp in a 69 Chevelle.
5.3 with 64,000 miles running.
Stock pistons, rods, heads
Arp rod bolts, arp head stud kit, ring gap opened, patriot gold dual valve springs, chromoly 3/8 pushrods
XER273 224/230 .581/.588 lift
Twin pt62's/58AR 40mm wastegates, manual boost control, factory ecm
E85.
My plan is to run around 15lbs of boost but less than 20lbs. If I can't reach my goal at 19lbs then so be it. I want it to live for a couple years if I can. From what I understand there is a point where you want to go forged pistons, etc..but I don't think 700hp was it. I think it was around 800. Just thought I would throw that out there.
5.3 with 64,000 miles running.
Stock pistons, rods, heads
Arp rod bolts, arp head stud kit, ring gap opened, patriot gold dual valve springs, chromoly 3/8 pushrods
XER273 224/230 .581/.588 lift
Twin pt62's/58AR 40mm wastegates, manual boost control, factory ecm
E85.
My plan is to run around 15lbs of boost but less than 20lbs. If I can't reach my goal at 19lbs then so be it. I want it to live for a couple years if I can. From what I understand there is a point where you want to go forged pistons, etc..but I don't think 700hp was it. I think it was around 800. Just thought I would throw that out there.
Last edited by tonytone4143; Oct 30, 2011 at 10:16 PM. Reason: spelling
What did you open the ring gap to? I also wanted to run a single turbo instead of twins and run on Gas since I don't have E85 available in my area.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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We are planning on opening the top ring gap to .023 and the second to .025. It seems many open it up to .028 or more but since I am running E85 and E85 runs so much cooler I didn't want to take a chance of burning oil or blow by. The main issue seems to be the top ring lands blowing off with boost so therefore, opening the ring gap will keep them from butting together.
On gas it seems the consensus is to open the top gap to the same as the second of .028. I am using stock rods, pistons, piston rings, heads, etc... Just too many people haveing success with the stock bottom end. Of course i plan to run less than 20lbs of boost and that should help with the longevity.
On gas it seems the consensus is to open the top gap to the same as the second of .028. I am using stock rods, pistons, piston rings, heads, etc... Just too many people haveing success with the stock bottom end. Of course i plan to run less than 20lbs of boost and that should help with the longevity.
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We are planning on opening the top ring gap to .023 and the second to .025. It seems many open it up to .028 or more but since I am running E85 and E85 runs so much cooler I didn't want to take a chance of burning oil or blow by. The main issue seems to be the top ring lands blowing off with boost so therefore, opening the ring gap will keep them from butting together.
On gas it seems the consensus is to open the top gap to the same as the second of .028. I am using stock rods, pistons, piston rings, heads, etc... Just too many people having success with the stock bottom end. Of course i plan to run less than 20lbs of boost and that should help with the longevity.
On gas it seems the consensus is to open the top gap to the same as the second of .028. I am using stock rods, pistons, piston rings, heads, etc... Just too many people having success with the stock bottom end. Of course i plan to run less than 20lbs of boost and that should help with the longevity.
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If u dont have a pcm or harness put a carb set up on it i doin a turbonetics hurricane 78mm with a 750 or 850 blow through with arp rod bolts turbo cam and gold springs. Carbs are just esaier for me to use.. intake and msd box are 650 carb is 450 so it might be a few bucks cheaper
