What oil and weight are you guys running?
11-05-2011, 06:06 PM
#24
Down from what? I run 5-30 walmart synthetic in a 6.0L factory oil pump. Hot idle at 650rpm is 35-40 psi, cruise at 2500 rpm is 60psi, and 75-80 on the hammer. I don't see the need for any more psi than that unless turning in excess of 7500 RPM.
11-05-2011, 08:17 PM
#28
Just curious why people seem to target oil pressure? The thicker the oil the higher the pressure why? Because its more restrictive traveling through the clearances, restriction makes pressure. So a thinner oil is going to create less pressure and flow more.... Im not sure how one would calculate what exact happy medium you need... but if there is a requirement of X amount of oil pressure at Y temperature, and you have more pressure at that temp, i would assume its not flowing like it was designed... given the clearances are correct. And if you have less pressure you're flowing more due to larger clearances?
So what does one ideally want in a high heat turbo application? Slower moving oil to lubricate "better" or a faster moving oil (less pressure) that could help cool better?
-Just a though.
So what does one ideally want in a high heat turbo application? Slower moving oil to lubricate "better" or a faster moving oil (less pressure) that could help cool better?
-Just a though.
11-05-2011, 08:39 PM
#29
Just curious why people seem to target oil pressure? The thicker the oil the higher the pressure why? Because its more restrictive traveling through the clearances, restriction makes pressure. So a thinner oil is going to create less pressure and flow more.... Im not sure how one would calculate what exact happy medium you need... but if there is a requirement of X amount of oil pressure at Y temperature, and you have more pressure at that temp, i would assume its not flowing like it was designed... given the clearances are correct. And if you have less pressure you're flowing more due to larger clearances?
So what does one ideally want in a high heat turbo application? Slower moving oil to lubricate "better" or a faster moving oil (less pressure) that could help cool better?
-Just a though.
So what does one ideally want in a high heat turbo application? Slower moving oil to lubricate "better" or a faster moving oil (less pressure) that could help cool better?
-Just a though.
I run the valvoline vr1 20w50 and have had good luck with it. Rotella is great too. I run the synthetic rotella in my 7.3 F250 I think it's a 10w40 (helps with winter cold starts!)
11-05-2011, 11:28 PM
#31
I buy mine at the local auto parts store, Oriellys, western auto. I have never looked for it at Auto zone. Most chain Auto parts stores carry it.
There are many different reasons to differ from OEM recomendations. Actually if you read your owners manual it will give you a range of several different weigted oil. Ambiant driving conditions play into it too. If you live in the desert like me heavier oils are better then the light ones. Up in Canada a heavy oil might not work as good. The different additives the oil producer adds to their oils make differences too. Never run a flat tappit cam on oil with no Zinc. All oil use to come with zinc, but due to the fact zinc kills convertors most have removed it. I do not run a convertor on my car, I understand the different additive packages, and I know my engine is intentionaly built loose, so I run 20-50 with zinc. I run synthetic because were I live 100+ degree days with 140+ degree pavement is the norm for most of the year, so the fact that synthetic oil can handle more heat then conventional oil is the reason I run it. Not to mention the turbo uses oil and really super heats it.
You asked what the best is, VR1, Rotella are in my opinion at the top. But then again I run 20 weight John Deer tractor oil in my 4L80 transmition, so think twice taking my advice, HA.
VR1 Synthetic 20-50 in my 1000+hp 408. Love it. Plus did I mention it is blue?
There are many different reasons to differ from OEM recomendations. Actually if you read your owners manual it will give you a range of several different weigted oil. Ambiant driving conditions play into it too. If you live in the desert like me heavier oils are better then the light ones. Up in Canada a heavy oil might not work as good. The different additives the oil producer adds to their oils make differences too. Never run a flat tappit cam on oil with no Zinc. All oil use to come with zinc, but due to the fact zinc kills convertors most have removed it. I do not run a convertor on my car, I understand the different additive packages, and I know my engine is intentionaly built loose, so I run 20-50 with zinc. I run synthetic because were I live 100+ degree days with 140+ degree pavement is the norm for most of the year, so the fact that synthetic oil can handle more heat then conventional oil is the reason I run it. Not to mention the turbo uses oil and really super heats it.
You asked what the best is, VR1, Rotella are in my opinion at the top. But then again I run 20 weight John Deer tractor oil in my 4L80 transmition, so think twice taking my advice, HA.
VR1 Synthetic 20-50 in my 1000+hp 408. Love it. Plus did I mention it is blue?
11-07-2011, 02:15 PM
#33
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I found this bulletin from ForcedPerformance.com helpful. Their market is custom built turbo's for imports, but still good info on oil.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
