Twin Screw LS
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Teching In
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Twin Screw LS Awesome site !
I currently have no LS parts and want to install a low budget 550 rwhp twin screw 370 into my 66. Is it less money to buy a complete used LQ4 / 4l80e and piece together all the components to build a forged LQ4 with l92's , or is buying a complete FI ready long block better ? I would still need all of the pieces to do the conversion into my car , and the twin screw / intercooler set up will eat up around $6500 alone.
I currently have no LS parts and want to install a low budget 550 rwhp twin screw 370 into my 66. Is it less money to buy a complete used LQ4 / 4l80e and piece together all the components to build a forged LQ4 with l92's , or is buying a complete FI ready long block better ? I would still need all of the pieces to do the conversion into my car , and the twin screw / intercooler set up will eat up around $6500 alone.
a stock Ls motor will handle 550.
stock 6.0 out of a truck
+rod bolts
+s/c cam
+set of ported 317s
+headers/exhaust system
+twin screw / procharger
= 500+ & lot of fun
or if your looking to push alot of boost and just prefer something built... I personally think a forged short block from SDPC or TSP w/good set of heads would be your best bang for the buck.
stock 6.0 out of a truck
+rod bolts
+s/c cam
+set of ported 317s
+headers/exhaust system
+twin screw / procharger
= 500+ & lot of fun
or if your looking to push alot of boost and just prefer something built... I personally think a forged short block from SDPC or TSP w/good set of heads would be your best bang for the buck.
9 Second Club
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From: Norn Iron
Cheapest option will be a 6.0 iron block and just throw a set of rods/pistons into it.
With the twin screw there is little point building a mega expensive bottom end, as you're going to make your target goal easily with virtually any engine configuration.
Even one of the TVS2300 will do it with ease, and likely be much cheaper than a twin screw.
With the twin screw there is little point building a mega expensive bottom end, as you're going to make your target goal easily with virtually any engine configuration.
Even one of the TVS2300 will do it with ease, and likely be much cheaper than a twin screw.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 37
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Cheapest option will be a 6.0 iron block and just throw a set of rods/pistons into it.
With the twin screw there is little point building a mega expensive bottom end, as you're going to make your target goal easily with virtually any engine configuration.
Even one of the TVS2300 will do it with ease, and likely be much cheaper than a twin screw.
With the twin screw there is little point building a mega expensive bottom end, as you're going to make your target goal easily with virtually any engine configuration.
Even one of the TVS2300 will do it with ease, and likely be much cheaper than a twin screw.
I would rather spend the extra few hundred on the forged rods for my engine . Which brings me to this question, The TSP forged 408 iron long block is only $500 more than their 370 . A 408 topped with either a Lysholm , Whipple , or Kenne Bell would require less boost to make the same power as the 370 ? The big flat torque curve is what I am after. I have the traction and suspension for it ,and a twin screw LS will feel better all around than the typical gas sucking 5XX carbed BBC .
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9 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2006
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The TSP forged 408 iron long block is only $500 more than their 370 . A 408 topped with either a Lysholm , Whipple , or Kenne Bell would require less boost to make the same power as the 370 ? The big flat torque curve is what I am after. I have the traction and suspension for it ,and a twin screw LS will feel better all around than the typical gas sucking 5XX carbed BBC .
My build was expected to go to around 1500 to the flywheel. We would have been there but the Aeromotive A1000 couldn't keep up, especially after we added the 100 shot. Right now I am looking/pricing an LSx. We are only at 23 pounds of boost with the Whipple, would like to get it to 30. May take the LSx to get us there. Concern now is that we are probably near 1200 to the flywheel. Not that I would mind popping the motor but I'd hate to damage some of the better components.
Here is a dyno run at somewhere past 950/1100
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65O4rfLVXRI
It seems to be an ongoing debate on the strength of the stock rods . Many LS owners say (including GMPP ) that the powdered metal rods are fine up to a 800 hp and 6500 rpm. GMPP are so confident in the stock rods , they don't use forged rods on their low budget boost ready 376 . GM's cost on the forged rods can't be much if you can buy a set of them at the store for $350 .
I would rather spend the extra few hundred on the forged rods for my engine . Which brings me to this question, The TSP forged 408 iron long block is only $500 more than their 370 . A 408 topped with either a Lysholm , Whipple , or Kenne Bell would require less boost to make the same power as the 370 ? The big flat torque curve is what I am after. I have the traction and suspension for it ,and a twin screw LS will feel better all around than the typical gas sucking 5XX carbed BBC .
I would rather spend the extra few hundred on the forged rods for my engine . Which brings me to this question, The TSP forged 408 iron long block is only $500 more than their 370 . A 408 topped with either a Lysholm , Whipple , or Kenne Bell would require less boost to make the same power as the 370 ? The big flat torque curve is what I am after. I have the traction and suspension for it ,and a twin screw LS will feel better all around than the typical gas sucking 5XX carbed BBC .
Thread Starter
Teching In
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My forged TSP built 408 with ETP 245cc stage III heads and a 4.0 Liter Whipple is currently putting down 969/1111 to the rear wheels. The Whipple is backed up with a Moroso Remote Electric Water Pump, 221 lb ID2000 injectors, a Nitrous outlet kit with a 100 shot, and we are running on Ethanol. We are using a SP 102 mm tb and pretty much everything else is custom made, including the cogged drive.
My build was expected to go to around 1500 to the flywheel. We would have been there but the Aeromotive A1000 couldn't keep up, especially after we added the 100 shot. Right now I am looking/pricing an LSx. We are only at 23 pounds of boost with the Whipple, would like to get it to 30. May take the LSx to get us there. Concern now is that we are probably near 1200 to the flywheel. Not that I would mind popping the motor but I'd hate to damage some of the better components.
Here is a dyno run at somewhere past 950/1100
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65O4rfLVXRI
My build was expected to go to around 1500 to the flywheel. We would have been there but the Aeromotive A1000 couldn't keep up, especially after we added the 100 shot. Right now I am looking/pricing an LSx. We are only at 23 pounds of boost with the Whipple, would like to get it to 30. May take the LSx to get us there. Concern now is that we are probably near 1200 to the flywheel. Not that I would mind popping the motor but I'd hate to damage some of the better components.
Here is a dyno run at somewhere past 950/1100
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65O4rfLVXRI
Whipple emailed me and suggested I take a look at their front feed 2.9L gen 5 camaro kit to reach my goals with the ability to grow later. The new front feed has a very efficient air inlet. Looks like it will all fit under my hood too. Around 7 K for the kit , another 5-6 k for the engine/ trans and conversion pieces... +++++
I have been looking at TSP long blocks too, but I would have to crunch the numbers to see how much I would save by just doing the junk yard route.
I am not against buying a used set up off someone too........ The learning curve on this modern stuff is steep !!
