I've posted here before but, I wanted to document my build with pictures.
So, I will be adding to these as we go and update everyone on where things are going, if you notice im about my foot into a bear trap please let me know. This car will (hopefully) be ready for competition and driving next year.

Concept:
I wanted a summer driver that could kick *** in road courses and still be fun on the drag strip. This is already a tall order, but, I did a little work on numbers and found that if I had a variable horsepower car it can be a tapping hammer all the way up to a sledge as is needed. Also, shortly after ordering my block and heads in Feb. I got laid off, so this became a build as much of it myself as humanly possible (for as cheaply as possible), hence the custom everything I can.

So, here it goes:
Short block: 383 LT1 Coming from Clayton Racing Engines (Should arrive soon, pics will be posted then.)
Callies Dragon Slayer Crank
Compstar HD I Beam Rods w/L19 Hardware
CP Pistons (23.5cc Dish)
Hellfire Rings
Barnes 5 Stage Dry Sump Oil Pump (3 scavenge in Pan 1 off Turbo)

Heads LE Trickflows w/2.08 Int. (Hollow Stainless) and 1.6Ext (Inconel)
Cometic .06 or .066" Head Gaskets (Still figuring that one out.)
LE 224/224 Boost Cam
Comp Cams Ultra pro mag rockers 1.6 Ratio

GT4718 Turbo
Custom Hotside 1.75" Primaries into 3" Merge Collector and 3" Crossover
Twin Tial 38mm Wastegates
Turbosmart E-Boost 2 Controller
Snow Methanol Injection System

FAST XFI and XIM Computers
LS2 Coils
EFI Connection 24x Sensor system


I'll be adding more as we go, feel free to chime in and let me know what people think and definitely where I may be going wrong.

Jeff

 

pics /link to hot side,where is it....

 

ok that fixed it, weird worked when i first posted then went down...

 

holy smokes thats gonna be alot of welding lol.. y not just buy 90* and 180* bends so u dont have all those pie cuts, i made some headers and it was enough pain in the *** welding 2 or 3 pipes together lol, thats gonna be a nightmare.. especially beacuse sometimes the heat from the welder will slightly shift stuff

 

and good luck man should be badass when its done

 

Well part of it is, doing it this way, a pair of headers are less than $100, to do it with mandrel bends will be over 450. That and with me spot welding in 4-5 locations per join it will keep them from squirming.

 

Glad to see you building on an LT1 but I'm going to have to recommend taking a different route on the headers. It may be cheaper up front but you're most likely going to end up going back and doing it the right way. Every piece that is welded presents a section that can crack after a few heat cycles. In the end its up to you though.

 

The basic thought process is: these are probably going to be rebuilt next winter, and the winter after, essentially they'll keep happenign as money and experience allow, and also i'll be doing it to tune them in and I'll try different designs over time until I get it right.

 

think of this as well, its gonna cost your more in rod and gas to weld all of that lol

 

Holy shitballs man. You are going to try to do roadcourse work with a GT47-88?

 

4718, its even bigger, I know, probably a bit crazy, but the way I set up the engine itll be plenty capable running on only 2-3psi which itll be doing at just over idle. Like I said variable power output is the key, need the extra power to make up for some of the weight, and the slightly stiff springs on the strip, but even for road course work it won't lag too terribly, I'm running 9:1 static compression ratio and ~8.2 DCR. So, it should spool up pretty quickly. Once again even after this thing is built there is going to be a lot of both dyno and seat of the pants tuning to get it right. The job won't be even half done even after its on the road and driving.

 

Luckily I get rod for free and only 25 a fill up for gas. So, shouldn't be too bad.

 

Me thinks you should spend the extra money so it doesnt end up on this website. I think you have the talent to build good headers, but with all that weld its gonna be ugly. And good luck spooling a gt47-18 "off idle". I hope you were joking

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...old-fail/page3

 

even my worst headers I've made never looked like that.

 

So you're trying to mimic the look of robotically tig'd titanium/whitey bends with a mig and steel... LOLOLOLOLOLOL. Dude, some of your bends are straight up linear 45* angles. There's no radius in any way shape or form to some of them. That oughta flow like 50tyson.

 

we'll see, all it comes down to is how well it all works out, that and gotta learn somewhere/somehow, I prefer to learn and improve as opposed to shop it all out and spend crazy money on something I can actually do myself.

 

It is a GT4788. "88" is in reference to the 88mm inducer dimension on the compressor wheel. "18" is in reference to the 117.6mm exducer dimension on the compressor wheel (nobody really uses this in common turbo speak aside from Garrett). This is significant in my mind because 88 happens to be the max inducer size allowed in most x275 drag radial classes. Look a few of those cars up and then think about your car.

Anyhow, regardless of nomenclature, the point is that is a huge by gigantic turbo for an engine you expect to be able to modulate power on out of a corner. It is a 7 second 1/4 mile turbo. It isn't going to do a damned thing off of idle except make the front end of the car 55 pounds heavier. It will probably wake up around 4500-5000 rpm on your LT1 so you will need a solid roller cam and some good shaft mount rockers to have a decent powerband. It also has awful transient response simply because the wheels in it weigh more than an entire turbo in the size range you should be using.

Do yourself a huge favor and sell that turbo for something smaller. There is absolutely nothing you are going to do with a 1300 rwhp turbo on an F body with road race suspension. I wouldn't go much bigger than a 76GTS at most for your stated purposes. Even that "peashooter" can trap 150 in the 1/4. You may have to run 5 psi instead of 1 psi but think of the weight savings alone.

 

True, I'll talk to Jose again, and see what he thinks, see what a T6 frame would cost for my application

 

Did you already have that turbo sitting around or did you buy it new?

 

I have an old GTA42 (GT4202 but for diesels) that I have been using for mock up and have been debating whether or not to use as a "starter" turbo. Was a reman unit I bought from a local shop that was going out of business.