Input wanted to get to 9's on turbo setup.
#21
9 Second Club
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What are you running for timing? Full timing at zero boost, and then how does it ramp into full boost? Dumping it at 4000rpms off a 2 step and only a 1.55... That thing should do better than that. My car, basically same as yours, 370, PT76GTS, 9" 3.50, 100% stock suspension, MT 275's, I launched at about 3200rpms footbraking it to 11psi and it left rather easy with a 1.41 60ft. I know mines an auto, but a 1.80 1st gear glide.
Autos just gain traction so much easier than a manual.
Ive seen big huge bog standard Mercedes automatics pull 1.8 60fts on totally standard road tyres on an airfield. Which again offers little grip.
Manual cars would be lucky pulling 2.2s on the same surface with the same tyres in a similar weight car with similar power.
#22
TECH Addict
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There is no comparison between an auto launching and a manual.
Autos just gain traction so much easier than a manual.
Ive seen big huge bog standard Mercedes automatics pull 1.8 60fts on totally standard road tyres on an airfield. Which again offers little grip.
Manual cars would be lucky pulling 2.2s on the same surface with the same tyres in a similar weight car with similar power.
Autos just gain traction so much easier than a manual.
Ive seen big huge bog standard Mercedes automatics pull 1.8 60fts on totally standard road tyres on an airfield. Which again offers little grip.
Manual cars would be lucky pulling 2.2s on the same surface with the same tyres in a similar weight car with similar power.
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#23
9 Second Club
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Yes, but trying to match an auto's 60ft times with a manual, will be incredibly difficult. With auto's there is virtually no impact on the tyres.
The only way you'd even come close with a manual is with controlled slip......ie top fuel kind of stuff.
But that isnt exactly an option.
He may be able to gain some time through other means. But IMO he simply does not have enough power
Making more power would be the easiest, the cheapest and the most productive option.
Reducing weight is another, but IMO that's far more work than simply making more power
The only way you'd even come close with a manual is with controlled slip......ie top fuel kind of stuff.
But that isnt exactly an option.
He may be able to gain some time through other means. But IMO he simply does not have enough power
Making more power would be the easiest, the cheapest and the most productive option.
Reducing weight is another, but IMO that's far more work than simply making more power
Last edited by stevieturbo; 01-05-2012 at 12:39 PM.
#24
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First off your car is doing well for drag radials and full weight, there are alot of improvements to be made though.
I would start by, getting a little better gear ratio something around a 4.10 or 3.90, it will make your clutch do much less work on the 60ft.
If you don't already have them get some DA shocks front and rear if you cant afford them get DA's for the rear and SA's for the front
ditch the radials and get a set of 28x10.5's stiff side walls,
The above mods will net you much better 60ft times and more consistent, Radials just dont recover near as well as a full slick
also my m6 went 10.06 @ 136 so you better hope the cut out picked you up some more mph because you will need some more hp to make a 9.9x
I would start by, getting a little better gear ratio something around a 4.10 or 3.90, it will make your clutch do much less work on the 60ft.
If you don't already have them get some DA shocks front and rear if you cant afford them get DA's for the rear and SA's for the front
ditch the radials and get a set of 28x10.5's stiff side walls,
The above mods will net you much better 60ft times and more consistent, Radials just dont recover near as well as a full slick
also my m6 went 10.06 @ 136 so you better hope the cut out picked you up some more mph because you will need some more hp to make a 9.9x
#25
9 Second Club
#27
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What are you running for timing? Full timing at zero boost, and then how does it ramp into full boost? Dumping it at 4000rpms off a 2 step and only a 1.55... That thing should do better than that. My car, basically same as yours, 370, PT76GTS, 9" 3.50, 100% stock suspension, MT 275's, I launched at about 3200rpms footbraking it to 11psi and it left rather easy with a 1.41 60ft. I know mines an auto, but a 1.80 1st gear glide.
I have to agree with StevieTurbo though as far as auto vs. stick turbo cars.Your drivetrain is already loaded just by having your foot on the gas and the brake. I'm shocking the drivetrain everytime I launch, and theres a fine line between hook and spin for an M6, let alone an M6 turbo car. It's also significantly easier to build boost with an auto per what I've already stated. If I dip into the 1.4x times, I would be rather impressed. I think the fact that my DR's are so huge is what's helping me thus far, 295/50/16 DR's.
First off your car is doing well for drag radials and full weight, there are alot of improvements to be made though.
I would start by, getting a little better gear ratio something around a 4.10 or 3.90, it will make your clutch do much less work on the 60ft.
If you don't already have them get some DA shocks front and rear if you cant afford them get DA's for the rear and SA's for the front
ditch the radials and get a set of 28x10.5's stiff side walls,
The above mods will net you much better 60ft times and more consistent, Radials just dont recover near as well as a full slick
also my m6 went 10.06 @ 136 so you better hope the cut out picked you up some more mph because you will need some more hp to make a 9.9x
I would start by, getting a little better gear ratio something around a 4.10 or 3.90, it will make your clutch do much less work on the 60ft.
If you don't already have them get some DA shocks front and rear if you cant afford them get DA's for the rear and SA's for the front
ditch the radials and get a set of 28x10.5's stiff side walls,
The above mods will net you much better 60ft times and more consistent, Radials just dont recover near as well as a full slick
also my m6 went 10.06 @ 136 so you better hope the cut out picked you up some more mph because you will need some more hp to make a 9.9x
#28
9 Second Club
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Sounds like your ecu is compromised and not allowing you to run max effort ? ie...its old lol
While it could be considered extreme. A decent aftermarket ecu will allow very easy fine tuning for all circumstances.
It can employ various boost control strategies ( boost by gear, speed, whatever ), it will allow you to build enough boost on the line to blow everything to bits quite easily without having to buy silly add on bits.
Or an easier upgrade would be a newer ecu that allows you to run speed density. Although it wont offer any benefit for the other aspects.
While it could be considered extreme. A decent aftermarket ecu will allow very easy fine tuning for all circumstances.
It can employ various boost control strategies ( boost by gear, speed, whatever ), it will allow you to build enough boost on the line to blow everything to bits quite easily without having to buy silly add on bits.
Or an easier upgrade would be a newer ecu that allows you to run speed density. Although it wont offer any benefit for the other aspects.
#29
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Sounds like your ecu is compromised and not allowing you to run max effort ? ie...its old lol
While it could be considered extreme. A decent aftermarket ecu will allow very easy fine tuning for all circumstances.
It can employ various boost control strategies ( boost by gear, speed, whatever ), it will allow you to build enough boost on the line to blow everything to bits quite easily without having to buy silly add on bits.
Or an easier upgrade would be a newer ecu that allows you to run speed density. Although it wont offer any benefit for the other aspects.
While it could be considered extreme. A decent aftermarket ecu will allow very easy fine tuning for all circumstances.
It can employ various boost control strategies ( boost by gear, speed, whatever ), it will allow you to build enough boost on the line to blow everything to bits quite easily without having to buy silly add on bits.
Or an easier upgrade would be a newer ecu that allows you to run speed density. Although it wont offer any benefit for the other aspects.
#30
9 Second Club
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Another aspect of of a decent ecu, and maybe your OEM ecu can do some of it, is datalogging.
Hook up some wheel speed sensors front and rear and you can see exactly what's happening during the launch, racing, whenever. Whether it grips, spins, rpm, boost, throttle etc etc
Hook up some wheel speed sensors front and rear and you can see exactly what's happening during the launch, racing, whenever. Whether it grips, spins, rpm, boost, throttle etc etc
#31
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Thos KYB's are no good for drag racing. If you want to consistently have better 60's you really need better shocks. If is important with any vehicle, especially clutch cars that dont have the ability to control the initial hit of the clutch.
thats the nice way of saying sell the the kyb's and buy good shocks
thats the nice way of saying sell the the kyb's and buy good shocks
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#33
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Better shock will certainly help......the kybs happen to be cheap when I got them lol. We're gonna see if they'll lift the front wheels ![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
As to upping the boost, let's not get carried away with tripling the boost
I am all about efficiency which is why I think the setup has done as well as it has, but a little more boost should only raise the island efficiency of the turbo since it's not breathing hard yet. I'm working on a couple more tweaks to help make it more efficient as well as I'm still on pump gas. Hopefully all goes well! I'll post up dyne results in a couple weeks with video. Thanks for all the info.
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
As to upping the boost, let's not get carried away with tripling the boost
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#34
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Better shock will certainly help......the kybs happen to be cheap when I got them lol. We're gonna see if they'll lift the front wheels ![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
As to upping the boost, let's not get carried away with tripling the boost
I am all about efficiency which is why I think the setup has done as well as it has, but a little more boost should only raise the island efficiency of the turbo since it's not breathing hard yet. I'm working on a couple more tweaks to help make it more efficient as well as I'm still on pump gas. Hopefully all goes well! I'll post up dyne results in a couple weeks with video. Thanks for all the info.
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
As to upping the boost, let's not get carried away with tripling the boost
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#36
TECH Junkie
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for example sake, I cut pretty consistent 1.51-1.52 and run 10.4's @ 133 on 10#'s at 575 rwhp and 3450 raceweight. As it sits its not going any faster. My plan for 9's is rear drag bar, DA rear shocks to replace the **** comp eng ones back there now to get the 60's in the 1.45 range, and about 40-50 more hp in one way or another.
#39
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You never felt the need? You obviously have otherwise you wouldnt have created this post ![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
If you are launching off a 2 step at 8psi and are hooking fine... Why would you even think of doing anything to the suspension? It works fine. Its down to physics... YOU NEED MORE POWER PER WEIGHT. The answer is simple....Either turn up the power... or start gutting the thing. No other way around it.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
If you are launching off a 2 step at 8psi and are hooking fine... Why would you even think of doing anything to the suspension? It works fine. Its down to physics... YOU NEED MORE POWER PER WEIGHT. The answer is simple....Either turn up the power... or start gutting the thing. No other way around it.
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#40
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![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
If you are launching off a 2 step at 8psi and are hooking fine... Why would you even think of doing anything to the suspension? It works fine. Its down to physics... YOU NEED MORE POWER PER WEIGHT. The answer is simple....Either turn up the power... or start gutting the thing. No other way around it. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)