View Poll Results: can it run 5s with the stock cam at 15psi
Voters: 23. You may not vote on this poll
will it run 5s with the stock cam??proven -yes it will
06-04-2012, 06:54 PM
#62
i wonder what this combo would do in your rx7. it would probably be silly fast.
06-04-2012, 08:11 PM
#64
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Brother you need to post this on Team Chevelle in the Performance section. Title it
"New Best in my Non MARK JONES Engine!" lol. That will get some attention. Congrats. I am hoping to run mine saturday if i get my trans done and my hotside redone in time.
"New Best in my Non MARK JONES Engine!" lol. That will get some attention. Congrats. I am hoping to run mine saturday if i get my trans done and my hotside redone in time.
06-05-2012, 02:10 PM
#65
dude, good luck i know you will do well. youve got that suspension working.
06-06-2012, 07:41 AM
#66
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I completely missed the fact that you were not using a 4.8 anymore! So we're talking 8.60s on a stock long block 6.0? I wanna see ya throw a Zo6 cam now! You really should post up pics of your build.
06-06-2012, 09:05 AM
#67
Are you draining the alky every outing and the oil every weekend? I know alky wouldn't be reasonable in my driver, but just wondering what the upkeep is on it.
Congrats x 1000 on the new best!
Congrats x 1000 on the new best!
06-06-2012, 12:50 PM
#68
switched to the 6.0 after my old,used fuel pump cost me the 4.8.
it would have cost me this motor too but i put a loggable gauge on the system and saw the pressure dropping(instead of rising) under boost
hey thanks man
06-06-2012, 02:36 PM
#69
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A lot of people on this site don't understand the importance of a well thought out suspension and how much easier it is to run the number when your 60's are in the high 1.2x to low 1.3x range. Most seem to just throw more power at it then wonder why it still won't e.t. like it should. Then don't understand that even though they "bought the BMR catalog" why they can't find traction lol. Lot more to do with it than that.
I used to be one of them, but not anymore
I used to be one of them, but not anymore
Its not just suspension, but being able to get after it early as well...the latter was my problem...was way too lazy down low. Never could crack into the 4s due to it, but was running 5.0's 152-154mph at the 1/8 with mid 1.3 60' times
06-06-2012, 04:49 PM
#70
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Remember CamaroAndreas made well over 1200hp on a STOCK Lq4 and it lasted for quite a while. All he did was add his pyramid rings (triangular shaped o-ring type setup.).
I say turn the sucker up until it pushes water... Also since you're running methanol you can get rid of the radiator and water pump. You'd need to look up what you need for a catch can setup, but it would take some weight out of the car for sure.
I say turn the sucker up until it pushes water... Also since you're running methanol you can get rid of the radiator and water pump. You'd need to look up what you need for a catch can setup, but it would take some weight out of the car for sure.
06-06-2012, 05:12 PM
#71
lol thats a respectable quarter mile time.Remember CamaroAndreas made well over 1200hp on a STOCK Lq4 and it lasted for quite a while. All he did was add his pyramid rings (triangular shaped o-ring type setup.).
I say turn the sucker up until it pushes water... Also since you're running methanol you can get rid of the radiator and water pump. You'd need to look up what you need for a catch can setup, but it would take some weight out of the car for sure.
I say turn the sucker up until it pushes water... Also since you're running methanol you can get rid of the radiator and water pump. You'd need to look up what you need for a catch can setup, but it would take some weight out of the car for sure.
for some reason, my engine gets hot. i mean, on a pass it is around 170 degrees if i keep it turned off as much as possible. that is with a scirocco rad running no fan(i have two but mainly use them for the return road)
im sure i could do away with the rad and maybe pump and save abt 30lbs, but i fear it would overheat if im at a track like yellobelly where im convinced that double burnouts and staging games are the norm.
oh, camaroandreas made 1200 with stock block and crank but forged rods and pistons, which will hopefully be what i upgrade to next year.
06-06-2012, 05:32 PM
#72
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So, this is the thread you were talking about, lmao!
Fantastic results man! Fantastic!
Whats your IDC on those 160s? Timing, afr? sorry if its been covered before, lol. Just catching up now. Another thing, what year is your motor?
Fantastic results man! Fantastic!
Whats your IDC on those 160s? Timing, afr? sorry if its been covered before, lol. Just catching up now. Another thing, what year is your motor?
06-07-2012, 03:16 AM
#74
i agree with you about getting the 60 ft down. last time out, my ets went from 7.4 to 6.5, mph never got below or above 103mph. the only difference was how hard i was leaving, off idle to off the transbrake and everywhere inbetween. ie the power can be there but the 60ft time has a huge effect on e.t
i think a lot of cars dont et that well because they are dual purpose, ie street/strip so its a compromise in the suspension department.
im really hoping for 5.70s at 15lbs
i think a lot of cars dont et that well because they are dual purpose, ie street/strip so its a compromise in the suspension department.
im really hoping for 5.70s at 15lbs
06-07-2012, 09:57 AM
#75
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Compromising for street use myself. Now I wish I had not taken out the transmission with the trans brake. I wanted all automatic feateures for street driving. Now I think I will have to leave the fiberglass doors on it (still 3000 lbs.) Hmmm.... I guess I should have waited on the stereo system and comfy seats too. LOL
There is Always a compromise!
There is Always a compromise!
06-07-2012, 10:31 AM
#76
To go hand in hand with what you said about being able to get after it SLR(starting line ratio) plays a huge part, as does converter selection and how the converter is designed to couple and when and where it couples.
Did you have a 1.80 gear set fireball?
06-07-2012, 10:54 AM
#77
I would say though that you can have a great dual purpose street/strip car without solid rod ends and solid mounted torque arms and anti-roll bar's.
All it takes is a good set of at the least single adjustable shocks with double adjustables being preferred. DA's also make it SO much easier to dial in the car for track conditions.
I have it down to where I can walk the starting line, check it for tackiness and then walk the groove to the 60' mark and tell where I want my buddies to put my car when I line up in the groove. I have found that the groove is stickiest usually on the outer edges of the groove and not dead smack in the middle. Just as long as the outer furthermost edge of your rear tire isn't over the groove, just lined up parallel to it and inside of it just a hair....I've found best repeatable traction this way.
All it takes is a good set of at the least single adjustable shocks with double adjustables being preferred. DA's also make it SO much easier to dial in the car for track conditions.
I have it down to where I can walk the starting line, check it for tackiness and then walk the groove to the 60' mark and tell where I want my buddies to put my car when I line up in the groove. I have found that the groove is stickiest usually on the outer edges of the groove and not dead smack in the middle. Just as long as the outer furthermost edge of your rear tire isn't over the groove, just lined up parallel to it and inside of it just a hair....I've found best repeatable traction this way.
06-07-2012, 04:25 PM
#78
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did you say 152-154 mph in the eighth? lol thats a respectable quarter mile time.
hehe, 15 psi max. i need this one to last all season.
for some reason, my engine gets hot. i mean, on a pass it is around 170 degrees if i keep it turned off as much as possible. that is with a scirocco rad running no fan(i have two but mainly use them for the return road)
im sure i could do away with the rad and maybe pump and save abt 30lbs, but i fear it would overheat if im at a track like yellobelly where im convinced that double burnouts and staging games are the norm.
oh, camaroandreas made 1200 with stock block and crank but forged rods and pistons, which will hopefully be what i upgrade to next year.
lol thats a respectable quarter mile time.hehe, 15 psi max. i need this one to last all season.
for some reason, my engine gets hot. i mean, on a pass it is around 170 degrees if i keep it turned off as much as possible. that is with a scirocco rad running no fan(i have two but mainly use them for the return road)
im sure i could do away with the rad and maybe pump and save abt 30lbs, but i fear it would overheat if im at a track like yellobelly where im convinced that double burnouts and staging games are the norm.
oh, camaroandreas made 1200 with stock block and crank but forged rods and pistons, which will hopefully be what i upgrade to next year.
170 isnt hot at all... I run a 195 T-stat in my Grand National on E85. I see temps well over 200 and it really seems to like the higher temps. Methanol needs even more heat to get going than ethanol. Alcohol engines like heat, and so do engine tolerances... I've never really understood why people think swapping to a lower t-stat is a good thing...Yeah it helps with detonation, but that's not an issue with alcohol. The hotter the engine, the tighter the tolerances with less engine wear. With these oem engines I'd want to operate them at whatever temp they were designed for from the factory.
06-07-2012, 10:58 PM
#79
Ah yeah forgot the rest of it was forged.
170 isnt hot at all... I run a 195 T-stat in my Grand National on E85. I see temps well over 200 and it really seems to like the higher temps. Methanol needs even more heat to get going than ethanol. Alcohol engines like heat, and so do engine tolerances... I've never really understood why people think swapping to a lower t-stat is a good thing...Yeah it helps with detonation, but that's not an issue with alcohol. The hotter the engine, the tighter the tolerances with less engine wear. With these oem engines I'd want to operate them at whatever temp they were designed for from the factory.
170 isnt hot at all... I run a 195 T-stat in my Grand National on E85. I see temps well over 200 and it really seems to like the higher temps. Methanol needs even more heat to get going than ethanol. Alcohol engines like heat, and so do engine tolerances... I've never really understood why people think swapping to a lower t-stat is a good thing...Yeah it helps with detonation, but that's not an issue with alcohol. The hotter the engine, the tighter the tolerances with less engine wear. With these oem engines I'd want to operate them at whatever temp they were designed for from the factory.
on e85, cooler water temps always resulted in better e.t for me. I havent tested with alcohol yet, but this article is my guiding principle on the issue.
http://www.rehermorrison.com/blog/?p=547
http://www.rehermorrison.com/blog/?p=244
i do plan to test at hotter and colder temps though to see what works best.
06-08-2012, 06:09 AM
#80
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71, i went 6.71@ 108 and10.43@120 lifting a little past the 1k' mark first pass off the trailer with a horrid 1.66 60'. goin to another track tonight to see if i can better it