JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

You do realize thats 29lbs of boost according to the kpa to psi conversion table I found????

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

subtract atmosphere

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Exactly. I think I did the calculation and it was roughly 15.1 psi of boost.... yeah, uh, um, no surprise of the outcome lol.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Good to know. I plan to get it on a dyno asap once I get it back running and will get the afr up to at least 11.0 - 11.4. I'll keep an eye on knock, and leave the timing at 13-14 degrees.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Duh... I knew something was wrong. 15lbs ehh, how many miles/ WOT blasts did it last??? Im going on 20k with my little 9lbs, hah. I wonder if it had not been so rich how long it might have gone on say 12lbs keeping the revs to 6k or so?

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

Use a dremel and cut them. Someone punched thru the bottom of their intake once with the chisel.

And I'm wondering how to connect all 4 steam pipes with the 102?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

11.4 sounds good to me. Get some BR7ef plugs and you should be good to go. Also if you throw the meth on there while it's going together don't be afraid to run 16* timing at the same boost you were seeing(200kpa) and 11.4-11.5 afr on 93. Are you running it on 93 or 91 I might have missed that.

TermnEatr

iTrader: (24)

How much do you need to roughly take off a ls6? For the lines is it gonna question how much boost can be thrown at the intake after its modified or is it very little?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

I just made a thread showing how much you need to take off of the LS6 to use a from LS6 steam crossover on the rear. Do a search.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I run on 93 exclusively.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Another suggestion too, having it a little leaner with less timing will make more power, and the less timing in the motor the better for longetivity and cylinder pressure. The sooner you start the spark in the 4 stroke combustion cycle the more your working against the piston. We as humans seem to always want to try and run as much timing as we can get away with (like everything else), where as the engines we are pushing would prefer and run better with the opposite of that.

Personally I'd go for 12-16(max) timing and high 11's for the afr and look at the plugs and see what the heat looks like on the strap and how far down the bend the timing mark is. If your going to run it on a dyno after building the motor this is very easy to do and check.

Like I said before your a smart well informed guy. I know you'll do what it takes to get the most out of your ride.

allout06

iTrader: (11)

be careful with these heat pipes. my intake wouldnt fit with my heat pipe... i had to cut it and connect the back of the heads with hose as with the front pipes....

JaYZeig

iTrader: (11)

weird...never had a problrm with mine, and its all in tact

Rossko85

iTrader: (11)

ok...so what if your steam ports are plugged up? (This question was asked earlier and I dont think it was answered) I have a 5.3L LS4...fwd rear mount turbo car...its Gen IV..so no differences except the crank being shorter and the fact that my number 7 is up front, and the TB faces what you guys know as the rear, and the front/belt drive faces pass side of the engine bay...bass ackwards...I know! work with me here...

I was going to do this, and it seems guys are just tapping the "plugged" section of the head, and just tapping 1/8npt to AN or barbed fitting, and then just T off the current feed...very similar to the LS1 style originally from factory.

So, how far do we tap down?

Can I do it with the heads on and just keep grease and oil on the bit to mind shavings?

And I'm not real clear as to where the rear ports flow to? if you look at the block, you can see the open port on the short block on top of pistons up front for coolant I assume, but the same sections of the block are filled in on each side...just hard for me to see where this rear steam port would vent to...

Please clarify and chime in on this...

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

I wonder if adding the modded steam vent setup will actually reduce the likelihood of actually blowing the stock bottom end when running 15psi on a full bolt on and cammed ws6? im thinking not. minimal at best, but def a great thing to have when putting all that dough into a motor that will. My build will not go without one of these and I am glad to have read about it. thanks guys.

Aster

iTrader: (9)

When my stock motor went it looked a lot like the pictures of the piston Alchemist, but I had also cracked the #7 wall.

When I rebuilt mine I just bought a second cross over that is on the front of the motor and put it on the back. Connected the two ends together with the tubing and a T before they go back to the radiator. So far it seems to have been working okay.

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

I think people are jumping to conclusions imo. It is a good idea to run coolant back there for sure, but ls1's were toasting number 7 consistently before the ls6 even existed. They had coolant running back there. If it is a matter of heat going back there, why does #5 seems to be the 2nd most common instead of #8?

I think you detonate, and #7 is usually leanest.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

It's been a long time thinking back to pre-LS6 intakes to remember if that's true. I started modding in early 2001 and the ls6 intake was "THE MOD" to do for a head/cam/bolt on ls1, so I can't say if it was an issue prior to that or not.

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

People were already running larger fuel jets in the #7 cylinder on direct port kits before 2001 due to failures. You need detonation to cause most of these failures.

I'm not saying this is a bad idea, but I don't think it is that big of a deal.

10secondZ

iTrader: (24)

Very true,
I blew the #7 ringland and exhaust valve before the LS6 motor existed. Heads/cam/LS1intake/nx125. Went direct port to tune #7 indepenently