.
Got the head off, pics inside.
You do realize thats 29lbs of boost according to the kpa to psi conversion table I found????
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
Ray hit it on the head. Too much fuel will weaken the rings and then when it does what ray described above it lifts and breaks off.
When I had my car on safe mode my AFR would be 11.1-11.2. Normal mode was 11.4-11.6. Kill mode was 11.9-12.2. 15psi 50/50 93&110 14-16* timing.
When I had my car on safe mode my AFR would be 11.1-11.2. Normal mode was 11.4-11.6. Kill mode was 11.9-12.2. 15psi 50/50 93&110 14-16* timing.
And I'm wondering how to connect all 4 steam pipes with the 102?
11.4 sounds good to me. Get some BR7ef plugs and you should be good to go. Also if you throw the meth on there while it's going together don't be afraid to run 16* timing at the same boost you were seeing(200kpa) and 11.4-11.5 afr on 93. Are you running it on 93 or 91 I might have missed that.
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I just made a thread showing how much you need to take off of the LS6 to use a from LS6 steam crossover on the rear. Do a search.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
11.4 sounds good to me. Get some BR7ef plugs and you should be good to go. Also if you throw the meth on there while it's going together don't be afraid to run 16* timing at the same boost you were seeing(200kpa) and 11.4-11.5 afr on 93. Are you running it on 93 or 91 I might have missed that.
Another suggestion too, having it a little leaner with less timing will make more power, and the less timing in the motor the better for longetivity and cylinder pressure. The sooner you start the spark in the 4 stroke combustion cycle the more your working against the piston. We as humans seem to always want to try and run as much timing as we can get away with (like everything else), where as the engines we are pushing would prefer and run better with the opposite of that.
Personally I'd go for 12-16(max) timing and high 11's for the afr and look at the plugs and see what the heat looks like on the strap and how far down the bend the timing mark is. If your going to run it on a dyno after building the motor this is very easy to do and check.
Like I said before your a smart well informed guy. I know you'll do what it takes to get the most out of your ride.
Personally I'd go for 12-16(max) timing and high 11's for the afr and look at the plugs and see what the heat looks like on the strap and how far down the bend the timing mark is. If your going to run it on a dyno after building the motor this is very easy to do and check.
Like I said before your a smart well informed guy. I know you'll do what it takes to get the most out of your ride.
ok...so what if your steam ports are plugged up? (This question was asked earlier and I dont think it was answered) I have a 5.3L LS4...fwd rear mount turbo car...its Gen IV..so no differences except the crank being shorter and the fact that my number 7 is up front, and the TB faces what you guys know as the rear, and the front/belt drive faces pass side of the engine bay...bass ackwards...I know! work with me here...
I was going to do this, and it seems guys are just tapping the "plugged" section of the head, and just tapping 1/8npt to AN or barbed fitting, and then just T off the current feed...very similar to the LS1 style originally from factory.
So, how far do we tap down?
Can I do it with the heads on and just keep grease and oil on the bit to mind shavings?
And I'm not real clear as to where the rear ports flow to? if you look at the block, you can see the open port on the short block on top of pistons up front for coolant I assume, but the same sections of the block are filled in on each side...just hard for me to see where this rear steam port would vent to...
Please clarify and chime in on this...
I was going to do this, and it seems guys are just tapping the "plugged" section of the head, and just tapping 1/8npt to AN or barbed fitting, and then just T off the current feed...very similar to the LS1 style originally from factory.
So, how far do we tap down?
Can I do it with the heads on and just keep grease and oil on the bit to mind shavings?
And I'm not real clear as to where the rear ports flow to? if you look at the block, you can see the open port on the short block on top of pistons up front for coolant I assume, but the same sections of the block are filled in on each side...just hard for me to see where this rear steam port would vent to...
Please clarify and chime in on this...
Last edited by Rossko85; Feb 1, 2012 at 08:06 PM.
I wonder if adding the modded steam vent setup will actually reduce the likelihood of actually blowing the stock bottom end when running 15psi on a full bolt on and cammed ws6? im thinking not. minimal at best, but def a great thing to have when putting all that dough into a motor that will. My build will not go without one of these and I am glad to have read about it. thanks guys.
When my stock motor went it looked a lot like the pictures of the piston Alchemist, but I had also cracked the #7 wall.
When I rebuilt mine I just bought a second cross over that is on the front of the motor and put it on the back. Connected the two ends together with the tubing and a T before they go back to the radiator. So far it seems to have been working okay.
When I rebuilt mine I just bought a second cross over that is on the front of the motor and put it on the back. Connected the two ends together with the tubing and a T before they go back to the radiator. So far it seems to have been working okay.
I think people are jumping to conclusions imo. It is a good idea to run coolant back there for sure, but ls1's were toasting number 7 consistently before the ls6 even existed. They had coolant running back there. If it is a matter of heat going back there, why does #5 seems to be the 2nd most common instead of #8?
I think you detonate, and #7 is usually leanest.
I think you detonate, and #7 is usually leanest.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
I think people are jumping to conclusions imo. It is a good idea to run coolant back there for sure, but ls1's were toasting number 7 consistently before the ls6 even existed. They had coolant running back there. If it is a matter of heat going back there, why does #5 seems to be the 2nd most common instead of #8?
I think you detonate, and #7 is usually leanest.
I think you detonate, and #7 is usually leanest.
I'm not saying this is a bad idea, but I don't think it is that big of a deal.
