Got the head off, pics inside.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
Wow, this is something I hadn't considered in my build. It sounds like good insurance though, but at what point does venting the rear of the heads become necessary? I'd like to do the KUP once I go e85 and up the boost, but I'm sitting at 12.5psi right now on 93 pump. I'm only sitting a little over 600whp
We all watch our coolant temp, but it's at the front of the driver's side head, but what if we were able to see what the back of the head was reading and it was 30, 40 even 50 degrees hotter?
You read about lots of NA guys losing #7 ringland, it tells you something.
9 Second Club
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
I think it's important even at stock NA levels. Live and learn I say. Horsepower is directly related to cylinder pressure. The more cylinder pressure results in more heat. More heat isn't good, especially if it's localized to one area.
We all watch our coolant temp, but it's at the front of the driver's side head, but what if we were able to see what the back of the head was reading and it was 30, 40 even 50 degrees hotter?
You read about lots of NA guys losing #7 ringland, it tells you something.
We all watch our coolant temp, but it's at the front of the driver's side head, but what if we were able to see what the back of the head was reading and it was 30, 40 even 50 degrees hotter?
You read about lots of NA guys losing #7 ringland, it tells you something.
I think it's important even at stock NA levels. Live and learn I say. Horsepower is directly related to cylinder pressure. The more cylinder pressure results in more heat. More heat isn't good, especially if it's localized to one area.
We all watch our coolant temp, but it's at the front of the driver's side head, but what if we were able to see what the back of the head was reading and it was 30, 40 even 50 degrees hotter?
You read about lots of NA guys losing #7 ringland, it tells you something.
We all watch our coolant temp, but it's at the front of the driver's side head, but what if we were able to see what the back of the head was reading and it was 30, 40 even 50 degrees hotter?
You read about lots of NA guys losing #7 ringland, it tells you something.
wouldn't that give you the reading that you are after?
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 3
From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
It shouldn't be hard at all since the provisions are on the back of the head. Might have to make an extension for the wiring harness.
I think it's important even at stock NA levels. Live and learn I say. Horsepower is directly related to cylinder pressure. The more cylinder pressure results in more heat. More heat isn't good, especially if it's localized to one area.
We all watch our coolant temp, but it's at the front of the driver's side head, but what if we were able to see what the back of the head was reading and it was 30, 40 even 50 degrees hotter?
You read about lots of NA guys losing #7 ringland, it tells you something.
We all watch our coolant temp, but it's at the front of the driver's side head, but what if we were able to see what the back of the head was reading and it was 30, 40 even 50 degrees hotter?
You read about lots of NA guys losing #7 ringland, it tells you something.
Like you said secondly, steam vents should be there all the time. Especially boosted. I really like that KUP set-up it just looks bad *** like everything KUP does.
In general if you were going to rig up something to measure the heat of the rear cylinders and go through the time and trouble why not just rig up steam vents themselves and be done with it? Or use the stock ones? **** I'm wondering if my car even has them now.
rear temp on my motor is only about 10-15 degress hotter than the front. the drivers side head i use the stock sensor, the pass side i use an autometer temp gauge. on my 1/4 mile runs, ive never seen the temp on the rear port go over 180-190.
Last edited by lsxmalibu; Jan 30, 2012 at 01:23 PM.
Another thought is to put a temp sender in the rear part of the head. Then log it with the front of the head temps using HPTuners. You can then graph the changes over time, under boost, etc and see what is really happening.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
It was waaay rich, 10.2-10.6:1, and timing was only 13 degrees of timing.
Some people have said that too rich can be just as bad as too lean, why I'm not really sure. When I started tuning, I added a lot of extra fuel to make sure I didn't go lean, and I then started slowly pulling fuel out. When I first started running, it was bottoming out the wideband at less than 10.0:1 and I actually fouled a sensor.
Some people have said that too rich can be just as bad as too lean, why I'm not really sure. When I started tuning, I added a lot of extra fuel to make sure I didn't go lean, and I then started slowly pulling fuel out. When I first started running, it was bottoming out the wideband at less than 10.0:1 and I actually fouled a sensor.
It looks to me like the rich condition is what blew that piston. The raw fuel gets in between the rings and ignites breaking the piston. Post those pictures on the bullet and you will hear the same thing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,813
Likes: 15
From: Doylestown PA
I'm not doubting you at all. I just didn't know the answer. I think part of my tuning issue was the initial throttle tip-in into boost / PE it would go way rich, sub 10.0:1 and come back up to 10.4 on it's way to 10.6-10.7:1 through the rpm band. Not sure if that's typical or not, but I'm confident that when the motor goes back together I'll be on my way to a happy / healthy running motor.
When I had my car on safe mode my AFR would be 11.1-11.2. Normal mode was 11.4-11.6. Kill mode was 11.9-12.2. 15psi 50/50 93&110 14-16* timing.
