JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

got my AN fittings in today look pretty good. oil system is coming along swinmmingly lol
wondering if i should get a oil check valve for the return side as well. anyone recommend this?

JoshuaGrooms83

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its like a summer chritmas lol got abunch of things in this week for the oil system.

so heres my goodies

bunch of 10an oil fittings and whatnots, also my 4"-3.5" elbow reducer and 3.5"-3" reducer house couplers as well

the little summit 4an checkvalve with fittings installed

gonna have to clock my turbo cause the angled drain is also too close to one of the bolts

another few

feed side went right on!

an some more eye candy

the oil feed on the engine already tapped and ready to be installed

the 10an oil cap with a fitting, gonna have to be creative since it sits really close to the strut bar

waste gate reference nipple waiting to be installed

new OEM turbo trans am PCV boost check valve, always nice to find stock stuff sitting around lol

another view of how close the drain flange is.

and my 38mm wastegate with 7lbs spring sitting in it. good starting point.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

ANd got my 12ft of 10an and 10ft of 4an oil lines. also got my 6 2.5" couplers and my 3 2.5" elbow.
getting almost everything ready for the install. just a few more key items to go

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

damn, trying to get those AN fittings on those hoses are a PITA lol

Sladester2

iTrader: (1)

how much would this turbo run someone? To buy everything to get your car turbocharged

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

Little heads up,you may wanna get a 90° fitting for the inlet on the turbo,i know on mine I had to use one

JoshuaGrooms83

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The Turbo beand new was only $348 shipped to me by ON3.
so far with everything i got, its cost me
$900 thus far. Alli need now is the racetronic fuel pump
and 60lbs injectors. this will be the next biggest cost in the setup.
215 for the pump and wire kit and 300ish for the injectors.
so i got roughly $600 to go and ill be done spending money on parts for the most part. im sure there will be little odds and ends and then a nice tune of course.

when its all said and done, this setup will have cost me alittle less then $2000

_Adrenaline_

iTrader: (4)

Is there a reason you are using such a small restrictor? On3 told me to use an unrestricted 3an.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

from alot of pepole recomendations, people have said to use a restrictor regardless of bearing type. and since im using 4an hose, theres a bit of oil comeing to the turbo. I just want to make sure i dont over oil the turbp. its gonna get oil thats not a problem. and with relitivly tight tolerances, it really doesnt need that much oil to operate. plus, the fast the engine goes, the mkore pressure it supplies, thus pushing more oil to the turbo. so the restrictor just makes sure that i dont give the turbo too much oil.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

well, while trying to figure out another issue, i installed my Catch can and turbo PCV valve. so far so good. reused a few hoses and connections from the original ls1 pcv. looks pretty good. think i might get some "fake" -an hose connectors to clean it up a bit but other then that it looks damn good.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

some pitures of my newly installed catch can. ill need to put a baffle and/or stainless steel wool inside it to make it more effective, but over all, its pretty good. looks a bit beat up, but i got a catch can lol the turbo TA PCV valve in the old ls1 pcv rubber tubing fits and attaches beatifully. love to use stock items as much as possible when it adds to performance



hows it looks? I got the hoses hooked up right, right?

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

while im waiting, back to injectors, been doing the math and for the power level i want (500hp range) 48lbs would be borderline ok. not gonna puch my luck so i kept looking and came across deka seimens 55lbs injectors.
are these easy to tune like the 60s and will these suffice for 550 for now with a ractronics fuel pump w/hotwire kit? i know 60 would yeld more safty, but mathmatically, 55s would be closer to the end power spectrum,

HRHohio

I would highly recommend going with the 60s. You want your duty cycle to be ~80-90% and 55s would cut you too close, in my opinion.

You only need to go lean once to blow the engine, why risk it.

I just got the racetronics hot wire kit in the mail the other day. Noticed I have had some lean episodes and think it might be lack of fuel flowing to my 60lb injectors. Also bought a 145 amp truck alternator. Search for that for some good info on supplying enough voltage to the fuel pump.

Check out:
http://injector.com/injectorselection.php

When you put the numbers in, remember it's asking for "ENGINE" horsepower, not RWHP. Take your RWHP goal (500) and divide it by .85 (assumes 15% loss through drivetrain) to come up with ~590 crank HP

BSFC should be .7 for forced induction application
# of Injectors = 8
Injector Duty cycle should be = .8 (or less)

Play around with it and you can see where your Max safe supported hp levels will be for a certain injector.

I put my numbers in (650 engine hp, .7 BSFC, 8 injectors, and it accurately put my injectors (60lb) at 94% duty cycle. (Which I'm already seeing on HP Tuners) I'm not being safe...

I should be at 80% duty cycle, which means I should really be using injectors that are ~75lb.

Have fun with it.

Keep in mind, our ls1 engines run at 4bar fuel pressure (58psi) and not 3bar (43.5 psi). You'll need to factor that in when selecting the right injector for your car.


How is the rest of the build coming?

.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

alright. yeah i went on the RC website and used their injector calculator and it said 48lbs at .65 BSFC then i put in the .70 like you said and say i need at least 52lbs. this is calculated using 58psi instead of 43.5 the site you gave only shows the 43.5psi calculations.
http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx
So 55s would be pretty close with the formula with 550 being the aim. at 58 psi, 55s flow at 63lbs according to the calculator.
I already have the 145 amp truck alt so thats taken care of.
with you on the other hand lol 600+ is definitly hurting those 60lbers lol i looked into those calculations too lol looks like you need to step up to the 72s or even 80s lol

other then that though the builds going alright. sourcing out fuel parts now. trying to find a good deal on a ractronicx and hotwire kit and injectors.

needtransam

iTrader: (2)

Joshua Im really really interested in your thread as if you read my other thread im trying to build one myself from scratch

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...preciated.html

Let me know all the details if you could help me out with this not sure were to start

HRHohio

I hear ya. I have a funny feeling that my 58psi fuel system is not producing the full 58 psi at 5000 rpm (which is why I've seen a couple spikes in AFR and my injector duty cycle is approaching 96% at times). My hope is that (once I get my car back from paint) I'll get the new alternator installed and the RC Hotwire kit installed and I can then ensure I stay at the full 58 psi. Will have to look at my duty cycle then too and see if it recovers.

Also, just a note, I was reading through your thread again... you say that you are using a 7 lb wastegate spring... keep in mind that this is the minimum amount of boost that you can control with a boost controller. (i.e. the boost controller cannot kick in to control boost until you hit 7 lbs) (my understanding). Also, the max boost you will see (with boost controller opened up) will be double that, or 14 lbs. I am using a 5 lb spring and with my boost controller opened all the way up (Zeitronics) I just hit 9.5-10 lbs boost. When set to 0, I see 5 lbs boost.

I'm stock bottom end, but not worried because I'm also running with FMIC and Methanol injection (winshield washer fluid) and a conservative tune.

Glad things are progressing.

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

call jon at fic,he will set you up.he gave me a great deal on my 60s

ZL1Killa

iTrader: (17)

with regards to the restriction on the oil feed, you should be feeding the turbo with a 1/4" feed which is a -4an as you have (4/16 = 1/4") and returning the oil with an oil scavenge pump and as straight as a run you can make it back to either the oil pan or as STS has it, the oil cap. and that return line needs to be a -10 (10/16 = 5/8") or at absolute minimum a -8an

if you have a straight run, you will not need to worry about smoke and burning oil, and below 80psi of oil pressure you need not worry about a restrictor.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

well while im waiting to get back to the states and packing up my car to go back as well, brings me back to thinking and parts inquiring again lol
been wondering about heads and cam lately.
was wondering if going the 243/799 with a 04 LS6 cam would be worth going to from my stock LS1 heads and cams and then boosting my car? still keeping the boost to 8psi of course with a good tune? reminder to all you die hards, this is a car... not a drag racing door slaming, nitro smelling, ground shaking, ear deafening, tire slicked, stripper, prostock race car.... i want to be able to take my car to the track and home... on the same tank of gas that got me there... on its own power.... with gas i can get at shell or aral (here in germany)... that wont have me putting a morgage on my children...
there.... i think that covers most of everything lol

all seriousness though, 243/799s worth it with a 04 zo6 cam? polished and maybe ported heads of course. from a N/A stand point i know this is a great budget compromise route. will this tranlate into that much more power in boost form?

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

my babys on a boat headin back to the states. get it back in OCT. ill be there in Sept.