Another Rear mount build, but it was coming anyway :)
03-12-2013, 08:52 PM
#241
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well i got alot done today! very suprise on the progress i made! if i didnt have to stop and pick up the kids and watch hells kitchen lol i might be able to fire this thing up this evening but tomorrow is another day and im really close to being able to run it without boost to the dyno shop.
So up first was the intercooler install which of course requires removing the bumper... let me tell ya, wasnt a walk in the park with these meaty fingers of mine but i made happen
then mounted the EMUSA 31x11x3 bar and plate intercooler.
then of course started running charge piping
while running the lling pipe, i ran the wastegate reference line and oil pump wiring
then ran the 4an oil feed and the 10an oil drain lines and set them into place then zipped everything up into place
and the oil pump has been mounted into position and connected to the oil lines for length measuring
also bolted the turbo-back exhaust back up (only way i cen think to call it lol)
tomorrow ill connect everything and maybe run fluids into the fuel and oil lines.
also gotta mount up the water/meth kit so i can just hook it up when im ready to run this. Gotta get a bung welded on to the top pipe for the meth injector. also gotta tap the oil pan and connect a few other an fitting to run the oil. god those 4 an lines are a PITA!!! the 10an isnt as bad but still tough.
So up first was the intercooler install which of course requires removing the bumper... let me tell ya, wasnt a walk in the park with these meaty fingers of mine but i made happen
then mounted the EMUSA 31x11x3 bar and plate intercooler.
then of course started running charge piping
while running the lling pipe, i ran the wastegate reference line and oil pump wiring
then ran the 4an oil feed and the 10an oil drain lines and set them into place then zipped everything up into place
and the oil pump has been mounted into position and connected to the oil lines for length measuring
also bolted the turbo-back exhaust back up (only way i cen think to call it lol)
tomorrow ill connect everything and maybe run fluids into the fuel and oil lines.
also gotta mount up the water/meth kit so i can just hook it up when im ready to run this. Gotta get a bung welded on to the top pipe for the meth injector. also gotta tap the oil pan and connect a few other an fitting to run the oil. god those 4 an lines are a PITA!!! the 10an isnt as bad but still tough.
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 03-12-2013 at 09:03 PM.
03-12-2013, 09:28 PM
#242
03-13-2013, 02:47 PM
#243
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god i hate AN fittings and hoses right now lol they look good, but damn my hands hurt right now from piecing together the hose ends to the hoses. OH and by the way, yes the chisel and hammer technique works quite well on the smaller 4an hoses to keep from fraying
So all i have to do now is hook up the oil pump trigger wire to the fuel pump wire and then hook up the feed and return lines to the engine. now i gotta figure out how to tap the oil pan on the car :/ how the hell do i do that with header tubes in the way? im trying to do it on the drivers side but ive got alot of crap in the way there. i might change it up and go on the passeneger side but still not sure.
also have the airfilter tucked up into that cavity. only question is, WTF! is that black box up ther behind the drivers rear tire?! that wasnt there when i looked at simular STS builds.... ill post a pic later of it
also have the BOV and wastegate reference lines completely ready to be hooked up to the vacuum manifold. everything is zipped into place and all i have to do is take out the plugs and put the barb fittings into place which ill do today too.
only thing i need that i dont have is one little 2.5" tbolt clamp
i got a regular worm clamp on it for now but ill get that fixed right away before anything happens.
ok, so feed and drain hooked up on engine, oil pump trigger wire, and BOV/wastegate hookups, put the bumper back on, install the injectors, and hookup the return line and we got a turbo car ladys and gentlmen
then a tune!!
So all i have to do now is hook up the oil pump trigger wire to the fuel pump wire and then hook up the feed and return lines to the engine. now i gotta figure out how to tap the oil pan on the car :/ how the hell do i do that with header tubes in the way? im trying to do it on the drivers side but ive got alot of crap in the way there. i might change it up and go on the passeneger side but still not sure.
also have the airfilter tucked up into that cavity. only question is, WTF! is that black box up ther behind the drivers rear tire?! that wasnt there when i looked at simular STS builds.... ill post a pic later of it
also have the BOV and wastegate reference lines completely ready to be hooked up to the vacuum manifold. everything is zipped into place and all i have to do is take out the plugs and put the barb fittings into place which ill do today too.
only thing i need that i dont have is one little 2.5" tbolt clamp
i got a regular worm clamp on it for now but ill get that fixed right away before anything happens.ok, so feed and drain hooked up on engine, oil pump trigger wire, and BOV/wastegate hookups, put the bumper back on, install the injectors, and hookup the return line and we got a turbo car ladys and gentlmen
then a tune!!
03-13-2013, 03:30 PM
#244
TECH Resident
You may want to wrap your exhaust (2 ft) where it comes close to the charge pipe (Under the car). When I took my car to a shop to have a wide band bung put in, I reached up and touched my charge pipe, and I'll be damned if that bitch didn't burn my finger, it was that hot. I couldn't believe how hot it got just from driving 10 miles to the muffler shop. I can imagine how hot it got while I was sitting in the staging lanes at the track. The charge pipe was getting so heat soaked from being 1 inch away from the exhaust pipe. I also wrapped that section (2 feet) of my charge pipe.
Check it out when you get it together and have a chance. Let it sit and idle for 5 mins and then do the touch test.
Also, I noticed that you didn't cut the bumper support out and mounted the IC in front of it. I believe that will impede flow through the IC, so I cut mine out and mounted the IC in it's place. Do you think it'll be ok as you have it?
Here's another thread showing how I did mine. (Again... not my car, but I did mine the same).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tercooler.html
Check it out when you get it together and have a chance. Let it sit and idle for 5 mins and then do the touch test.
Also, I noticed that you didn't cut the bumper support out and mounted the IC in front of it. I believe that will impede flow through the IC, so I cut mine out and mounted the IC in it's place. Do you think it'll be ok as you have it?
Here's another thread showing how I did mine. (Again... not my car, but I did mine the same).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tercooler.html
03-13-2013, 05:28 PM
#245
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
You may want to wrap your exhaust (2 ft) where it comes close to the charge pipe (Under the car). When I took my car to a shop to have a wide band bung put in, I reached up and touched my charge pipe, and I'll be damned if that bitch didn't burn my finger, it was that hot. I couldn't believe how hot it got just from driving 10 miles to the muffler shop. I can imagine how hot it got while I was sitting in the staging lanes at the track. The charge pipe was getting so heat soaked from being 1 inch away from the exhaust pipe. I also wrapped that section (2 feet) of my charge pipe.
Check it out when you get it together and have a chance. Let it sit and idle for 5 mins and then do the touch test.
Also, I noticed that you didn't cut the bumper support out and mounted the IC in front of it. I believe that will impede flow through the IC, so I cut mine out and mounted the IC in it's place. Do you think it'll be ok as you have it?
Here's another thread showing how I did mine. (Again... not my car, but I did mine the same).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tercooler.html
Check it out when you get it together and have a chance. Let it sit and idle for 5 mins and then do the touch test.
Also, I noticed that you didn't cut the bumper support out and mounted the IC in front of it. I believe that will impede flow through the IC, so I cut mine out and mounted the IC in it's place. Do you think it'll be ok as you have it?
Here's another thread showing how I did mine. (Again... not my car, but I did mine the same).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tercooler.html
now im just running into the problem of tapping the pan. everythings in the damn way! its like it doesnt wanna lol im trying to get a right angle drill to get in there but its like no ones ever heard of those before lol ill get ti though.
the oil system is completely wired int and plumbed in and i just gotta tap the return on the pan. the feed is easy since its bolt on.
Im gonna wrap it once I VHT paint the I-Pipe. Im also gonna consider wraping it like you said. ill post more pics once im done to show everything where its at and how its gonna sit.
How do you recommend wraping the exhaust with the fiberglass wrap? ive heard wet, ive heard dry, i dont know. first time wraping anything like this.
03-13-2013, 08:26 PM
#246
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well im pretty much past the point of no return lol
60lbs injectors are installed. way easier then i thought it would be. i was expecting them to be a royal PITA to pull the injectors out, but then i forgot that i replaced my ls1 intake manifold with this LS6 intake manifold so its not completly baked on the manifold like the original lol
Here where the BOV will be. nice and tucked out of the way but able to adjust it if needs be.
Also wired in the pump. im assuming i tapped the right grey wire. ill turn the keey on to see if it primes later. i actually did a little sneaky thing and pulled that pin out of the racetonix supplied plug and wired the oil pump wire on to that one so as long as i read the schematic right and found the right wire, should be good. ill only turn the key to on to prime the pump to make sure its running.
so the only thing i need to do is tap the oil return and bolt the feed on and thats all good to go. wastegate and BOV are now referenced off the vacuum manifold and ready to recieve boost reference zipped the barbs just to make sure they dont come off. dont want the wastegate reference line popping off or anything.
still need to plumb in the methanol kit in. still not sure if i want to mount the new tank or use the washer tank yet. i also need to tap the charge pipe for the IAT sensor. AND i gotta get that aluminum bung welded on for the meth nozzle. wondering if i should have it up top or near the bottom...
also, WHAT THE HELL do ya'll use to tap the oil pan on the car? i cant get ANYTHING to fit in there to tap it. no thanks to my LT headers and UMI RR K-member :/ im gonna go see if i can get a right angle drill or adaptor to see if i can do it. i have room in there, but not for a regular drill
60lbs injectors are installed. way easier then i thought it would be. i was expecting them to be a royal PITA to pull the injectors out, but then i forgot that i replaced my ls1 intake manifold with this LS6 intake manifold so its not completly baked on the manifold like the original lol
Here where the BOV will be. nice and tucked out of the way but able to adjust it if needs be.
Also wired in the pump. im assuming i tapped the right grey wire. ill turn the keey on to see if it primes later. i actually did a little sneaky thing and pulled that pin out of the racetonix supplied plug and wired the oil pump wire on to that one
so as long as i read the schematic right and found the right wire, should be good. ill only turn the key to on to prime the pump to make sure its running. so the only thing i need to do is tap the oil return and bolt the feed on and thats all good to go. wastegate and BOV are now referenced off the vacuum manifold and ready to recieve boost reference
zipped the barbs just to make sure they dont come off. dont want the wastegate reference line popping off or anything. still need to plumb in the methanol kit in. still not sure if i want to mount the new tank or use the washer tank yet. i also need to tap the charge pipe for the IAT sensor. AND i gotta get that aluminum bung welded on for the meth nozzle. wondering if i should have it up top or near the bottom...
also, WHAT THE HELL do ya'll use to tap the oil pan on the car? i cant get ANYTHING to fit in there to tap it. no thanks to my LT headers and UMI RR K-member :/ im gonna go see if i can get a right angle drill or adaptor to see if i can do it. i have room in there, but not for a regular drill
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 03-13-2013 at 09:14 PM.
03-13-2013, 09:48 PM
#248
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well i was gonna do the vavle cover, however im trying to do a few things right for a rear mount turbo and one of them is returning the oil to the oil pan to reduce oil control issues, plus its a straighter return route
03-13-2013, 10:39 PM
#252
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thats my thoughts on it, im gonna go out and get a right angle drill to tap the pan. no biggy. gotta go out and get some more vaccum line anyway for the crankcase fresh air line.
03-14-2013, 01:38 AM
#253
TECH Resident
Exhaust and charge pipe wrap - Yeah, I used the fiberglass exhaust wrap, wetted (Wrapping when dry is just asking for torture - plus you can get a tighter wrap when it's wetted). Harbor Freight sometimes carries stainless steel cable ties that work great for the end, or a big hose worm clamp. Otherwise a piece of wire to close off the end is fine too.
Oil return - Mine runs to the pass side valve cover through the oil cap. Seems to work fine for me. Good luck with the tapping. I've considered moving my return line to the oil pan too.... someday.... lol.
Oil return - Mine runs to the pass side valve cover through the oil cap. Seems to work fine for me. Good luck with the tapping. I've considered moving my return line to the oil pan too.... someday.... lol.
03-14-2013, 09:30 AM
#255
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Exhaust and charge pipe wrap - Yeah, I used the fiberglass exhaust wrap, wetted (Wrapping when dry is just asking for torture - plus you can get a tighter wrap when it's wetted). Harbor Freight sometimes carries stainless steel cable ties that work great for the end, or a big hose worm clamp. Otherwise a piece of wire to close off the end is fine too.
Oil return - Mine runs to the pass side valve cover through the oil cap. Seems to work fine for me. Good luck with the tapping. I've considered moving my return line to the oil pan too.... someday.... lol.
Oil return - Mine runs to the pass side valve cover through the oil cap. Seems to work fine for me. Good luck with the tapping. I've considered moving my return line to the oil pan too.... someday.... lol.
I got 2 rolls of 100x2" black with stainless steel ties so thats covered
03-14-2013, 04:10 PM
#256
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WELL ITS TAPPED!! got a angled drill adaptor for cheap a harbor frieght and low and behold i got it drilled. the hard aprt was tapping it. but once it got started that aluminum had no chance
so i figured out that my car had no idea what to do with 60lbs injectors lol so i swaped the stock injectors back in to run the car and check for leaks. the only leak i got butill have to go back in after its cooled off is the feed block on the engine if that aint some crap. i tryed to put some copper high temp gasket maker on it but it kept movin garound on me while i was trying to thread in the bolts so ill have to do it again and put more on it and let it sit for awhile
the scavenger pump is LOUD!!! lol but i know it works and i got it wired in right. It primes with the fuel pump and then turns off once its done priming so thats cool. what that tells me os that it will suck out some of the oil before the engine starts so it has less to do which is awsome.
Now to hunt down boost leaks like the turbo inlet flange. forgot to put some gasket sealant on there. havnt tried any boost yet but the BOV works and the turbo spinns freely when theres enough exhast to move that heavy thing lol The BOV closes immediatly once throttle is applied so thats cool. it didnt do "PSST" sound yet lol but then again its only idling on jackstands for shake downs.
A word of advise, before going all ape **** on the turbo, at least with ON3's, let it get some oil and then shut the car off abd then spin the turbo by hand. in doing this you help first time lube it and get oil on that shaft. i noticed that it want moving when i first started the car and I was alomost like "oh damn...." but then i took off the filter piping and spun it by hand just to feel it and initially it felt like before and was super tight to turn but then it spun very freely after that and then i started the car and VIOLA! its spinning freely now.
Ok, so now the tedious task of wrapping the exhaust. Ive got 200'x2" worth of wrap to wrap things up with. maybe some of these little leaks might get sealled up with it lol I know the highflow cats are horrible but oh well, those will be replced by the resonators soon. by the way, im glad i put the resonator on the dump piping... this thing is still loud as hell lol anyone wanna wrps the exhaust for me lol ill pay em LOL thats something i really dont wanna do yet.
Also the fuel pressure gauge is working. although im not sure whats going on , but its reading 70psi! so either im running really rich stock, or the fuel gauge is going screwy since its plugged intot eh AFR but the AFR isnt returning fuel yet but we will see.
i have to get a longer innovate wideband cable so i can run it in its proper place after the turbo, but for now its in the bank 1 sensor 2 position. i gotta seal up those leaks to get a proper AFR though. too much free air is getting sucked into the leaks by the cats. plus im sure the wideband O2 isnt getting a proper readin behind the cat but its an aftermarket highflow so its not like its behind a stock restrictive cat but still, they will be going soon.
so far so good other then the feed block leaking but the oil system is feeding and returning so thats cool.
so when i get to the tuning shop i gotta put in the 60lbs injectors and hook up the back portion of the return line and set the fuel pressure to 60psi so im not over working the injectors or the pump. that or the new racetronix pump is supplying that much and the stock FPR cant take it anymore lol
videos and pics will follow shortly
so i figured out that my car had no idea what to do with 60lbs injectors lol so i swaped the stock injectors back in to run the car and check for leaks. the only leak i got butill have to go back in after its cooled off is the feed block on the engine if that aint some crap. i tryed to put some copper high temp gasket maker on it but it kept movin garound on me while i was trying to thread in the bolts so ill have to do it again and put more on it and let it sit for awhile
the scavenger pump is LOUD!!! lol but i know it works and i got it wired in right. It primes with the fuel pump and then turns off once its done priming so thats cool. what that tells me os that it will suck out some of the oil before the engine starts so it has less to do which is awsome.
Now to hunt down boost leaks like the turbo inlet flange. forgot to put some gasket sealant on there. havnt tried any boost yet but the BOV works and the turbo spinns freely when theres enough exhast to move that heavy thing lol The BOV closes immediatly once throttle is applied so thats cool. it didnt do "PSST" sound yet lol but then again its only idling on jackstands for shake downs.
A word of advise, before going all ape **** on the turbo, at least with ON3's, let it get some oil and then shut the car off abd then spin the turbo by hand. in doing this you help first time lube it and get oil on that shaft. i noticed that it want moving when i first started the car and I was alomost like "oh damn...." but then i took off the filter piping and spun it by hand just to feel it and initially it felt like before and was super tight to turn but then it spun very freely after that and then i started the car and VIOLA! its spinning freely now.
Ok, so now the tedious task of wrapping the exhaust.
Ive got 200'x2" worth of wrap to wrap things up with. maybe some of these little leaks might get sealled up with it lol I know the highflow cats are horrible but oh well, those will be replced by the resonators soon. by the way, im glad i put the resonator on the dump piping... this thing is still loud as hell lol anyone wanna wrps the exhaust for me lol ill pay em LOL thats something i really dont wanna do yet.Also the fuel pressure gauge is working. although im not sure whats going on , but its reading 70psi! so either im running really rich stock, or the fuel gauge is going screwy since its plugged intot eh AFR but the AFR isnt returning fuel yet but we will see.
i have to get a longer innovate wideband cable so i can run it in its proper place after the turbo, but for now its in the bank 1 sensor 2 position. i gotta seal up those leaks to get a proper AFR though. too much free air is getting sucked into the leaks by the cats. plus im sure the wideband O2 isnt getting a proper readin behind the cat but its an aftermarket highflow so its not like its behind a stock restrictive cat but still, they will be going soon.
so far so good other then the feed block leaking but the oil system is feeding and returning so thats cool.
so when i get to the tuning shop i gotta put in the 60lbs injectors and hook up the back portion of the return line and set the fuel pressure to 60psi so im not over working the injectors or the pump. that or the new racetronix pump is supplying that much and the stock FPR cant take it anymore lol
videos and pics will follow shortly
03-14-2013, 06:45 PM
#257
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
OH
MY
GOD!!!!!!
wrapping the exhaust was as tedious and pain staking as i thought it would be....
wrapped it wet but it still was a pain to wrap it around everything. i didnt do the axle hump but i did everything all the way up to the header primarys. obviously i couldnt go all the way up but it looks pretty damn good in black. not sure if i should have wrapped the cats so i left those exposed so they dont over heat. not sure how highflow cats react to being wrapped and increased heat.
again pics will follow. trying to get everything up and running and tight. I applied copper high temp gasket sealant to the turbo inlet flange. gonna let it dry over night before i fire it up again. gonna do the same on the oil feed block. im thinking when i fired it up before it cured that it didnt seal and oils leaking. thankfulling the rest of the entire oil system is complely sealed so thats awsome lol
so this is working out pretty well. so far its running without the MAF but im wondering if i should see what it can do with it. dont worry, im beign very careful. ive got that 10lbs spring in there so im definitly NOT boost it AT ALL until it gets tuned.
MY
GOD!!!!!!
wrapping the exhaust was as tedious and pain staking as i thought it would be....
wrapped it wet but it still was a pain to wrap it around everything. i didnt do the axle hump but i did everything all the way up to the header primarys. obviously i couldnt go all the way up but it looks pretty damn good in black. not sure if i should have wrapped the cats so i left those exposed so they dont over heat. not sure how highflow cats react to being wrapped and increased heat.
again pics will follow. trying to get everything up and running and tight. I applied copper high temp gasket sealant to the turbo inlet flange. gonna let it dry over night before i fire it up again. gonna do the same on the oil feed block. im thinking when i fired it up before it cured that it didnt seal and oils leaking. thankfulling the rest of the entire oil system is complely sealed so thats awsome lol
so this is working out pretty well. so far its running without the MAF but im wondering if i should see what it can do with it. dont worry, im beign very careful. ive got that 10lbs spring in there so im definitly NOT boost it AT ALL until it gets tuned.
03-14-2013, 09:44 PM
#258
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and im an idiot lol so yeah my leaking issue was that i didnt reinstall the oil gasket off the stock oil block onto the new one... so took off the oil block, cleaned off my half *** copper gasket sealant, in placed the stock gasket in there, bolted it down and PRESTO! no more leaky leaky lol hey if thats all the oops i get outta this, then i can live with it lol.
So the car is up and running and ready for a tune, save for installing the MAP and 60lbs injectors. havnt driven it yet but it sounds solid. DAMN the pump is loud. so id image that if it went out that i would know becasue it would get quiet all of a sudden lol plus a plum of smoke probley would be a big indicator.
pretty much i just let it idle while i checked for any leaks. i think i might have one by the pump but im not sure. ill double check in the morning after it cools and has a chance to sit. the old "staring at a pot to boil" thing lol
pretty much just gotta get the bumper on and get the damn thing tuned. i think ill leave the bumper off so i can get it tuned so that i can assess any of the the stuff just incase it needs adjusting or what ever.
I also taped a hole in the charge pipe so that i can put the IAT sensor in there. i just used a grommet and made sure it was tight. the grommet has kinda like a barb design to it so it shouldnt come out. and since most of you have done this without insident im going this route unless it gets poped out, then ill do the typhoon threaded sensor.
cant wait to get ti tuned now
heres some extra pics
So the car is up and running and ready for a tune, save for installing the MAP and 60lbs injectors. havnt driven it yet but it sounds solid. DAMN the pump is loud. so id image that if it went out that i would know becasue it would get quiet all of a sudden lol plus a plum of smoke probley would be a big indicator.
pretty much i just let it idle while i checked for any leaks. i think i might have one by the pump but im not sure. ill double check in the morning after it cools and has a chance to sit. the old "staring at a pot to boil" thing lol
pretty much just gotta get the bumper on and get the damn thing tuned. i think ill leave the bumper off so i can get it tuned so that i can assess any of the the stuff just incase it needs adjusting or what ever.
I also taped a hole in the charge pipe so that i can put the IAT sensor in there. i just used a grommet and made sure it was tight. the grommet has kinda like a barb design to it so it shouldnt come out. and since most of you have done this without insident im going this route unless it gets poped out, then ill do the typhoon threaded sensor.
cant wait to get ti tuned now
heres some extra pics
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 03-14-2013 at 09:59 PM.
03-14-2013, 10:24 PM
#259
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Exhaust and charge pipe wrap - Yeah, I used the fiberglass exhaust wrap, wetted (Wrapping when dry is just asking for torture - plus you can get a tighter wrap when it's wetted). Harbor Freight sometimes carries stainless steel cable ties that work great for the end, or a big hose worm clamp. Otherwise a piece of wire to close off the end is fine too.
Oil return - Mine runs to the pass side valve cover through the oil cap. Seems to work fine for me. Good luck with the tapping. I've considered moving my return line to the oil pan too.... someday.... lol.
Oil return - Mine runs to the pass side valve cover through the oil cap. Seems to work fine for me. Good luck with the tapping. I've considered moving my return line to the oil pan too.... someday.... lol.
i highly recommend having your return to the pan. its so much of a straighter shot from the oil pump.
im gonna go get an oil change later just to make sure (the filters gonna catch anything that gets by)
OH!! for you guys out there iwth stock ls1's with stock injectors with lots of milage on them... it would be wise to take them out and shake/tap out the gunk thats on the inlet side. i was suprised on the crude that came out of them! i think this could have been part of my power loss last year on the dyno lol besides the crapmaster muffler i had on there lol
03-14-2013, 10:30 PM
#260
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iTrader: (2)
i think the AFR still needs to be adjusted. even though its not returning fuel, its still seeing pressure at the rail and is set id imagine for 70 psi... so dialing it down to 60 would be the best bet.
also, anyone know how the car will respond without tuning to it running with the return line hooked up and returning fuel back to the tank and the aeromotive fpr controling the pressure? will it be fine or do i need to wait until i get it to the dyno shop?
also yes, my MAF is gone and is running with out it. id image its running quite rich right now though lol
another Q before i get it tuned, my car shuold be ok to run the NGK Spark Plugs BKR7E-11 5791 gapped at .032ish before the tune right? just to put it done to the shop. nothing taxing.
also, anyone know how the car will respond without tuning to it running with the return line hooked up and returning fuel back to the tank and the aeromotive fpr controling the pressure? will it be fine or do i need to wait until i get it to the dyno shop?
also yes, my MAF is gone and is running with out it. id image its running quite rich right now though lol
another Q before i get it tuned, my car shuold be ok to run the NGK Spark Plugs BKR7E-11 5791 gapped at .032ish before the tune right? just to put it done to the shop. nothing taxing.
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 03-14-2013 at 11:46 PM.