Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Another Rear mount build, but it was coming anyway :)

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Old 03-19-2013, 11:33 PM
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yeah i think i might get it and see if it tucks the drain up higher on the turbo
Old 03-19-2013, 11:47 PM
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lol i just looked at your signiture and other then the stance, and a few other items our cars are really simular. that 228R cam is probably helping you out ALOT for spool lol
Old 03-20-2013, 08:06 PM
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And tunning has commenced.... shooting for about 500ish but anything over that will be nice
10lbs spring is in, so id image with the intercooler, piping, and any boost lose due to any leaking (hope not) 7-8psi will probably be the visual boost the motor will see. ill later get a turbosmart manual boost controller to up it to a true 10psi.
60lbs injectors are in and GM 2BAR map is in.
So now the waiting game. car will be Speed Density tuned with 2 bar operating system with HP tuners on a Dynojet.
hope these guys a Speed Factory Tuning out of El Paso TX are up to the task. They seem like they know what they are doing.
Old 03-20-2013, 10:07 PM
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nice build ive been following it for a while takes lots of dedication to do it while still using it as a dd. one thing i didnt see i might have over looked it was what you had to do to hook up the 2 bar map sensor i want to do sd on my car as well but wasent sure how to haha
Old 03-20-2013, 10:30 PM
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i actaully found that that 2bar map sensor that GM makes is NOT just a drop in and plug it in kinda deal. you have to cut off and file down the side thats closest to the intake manifold in the back. it "plugs" in on the harness but putting it in the manifold is another story. somthing some people have failed to mention. i broke the first one i tryed to stick back there and had to shell out $100 for another one form the parts store ;( no happy about that.

i found that when you take out the fuel rails to switch out the injectors, this is a good time to reach back there and switch out the map sensor to the 2 bar map. actaully had plenty of room for my meat hooks lol

the anticipation is killing me. the tuner seemed like he knew his stuff. told me straight up he wasnt gonna tune without the 2 bar map lol I was like "ok" also really wanted me to get that methanol injection working but i just couldnt get it to work. so i think i got sold a junk controller. the really liked that im switching ove rto Speed density... although im sure thats becasue they were gettting more money outta me and im paying for 2 more HP tuner credits.
Old 03-20-2013, 10:39 PM
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I just threaded a brass fitting into the map hole on the intake while it was off and ran a small piece of hose so I could reach the sensor at any time.
Old 03-21-2013, 07:14 PM
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well crap.... cars half way tuned. its tuned to run in SD and with the 60lbs injectors and 2bar map but cars not building any boost. like not even 1psi! so now the boost leak hunt starts that and i need to clean up an oil leak issue in the charge pipe its leaking like a beotch. got oil coming out by the intercooler and BOV to name a couple plus now i got to replace a pipe since i crushed it with the tbolt clamp
car runs great outta boost but now i gotta find the leaks. gonna check the wastegate too to make sure i didnt pinch the diaphram when i switched the springs
Old 03-21-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83
well crap.... cars half way tuned. its tuned to run in SD and with the 60lbs injectors and 2bar map but cars not building any boost. like not even 1psi! so now the boost leak hunt starts that and i need to clean up an oil leak issue in the charge pipe its leaking like a beotch. got oil coming out by the intercooler and BOV to name a couple plus now i got to replace a pipe since i crushed it with the tbolt clamp
car runs great outta boost but now i gotta find the leaks. gonna check the wastegate too to make sure i didnt pinch the diaphram when i switched the springs
Make sure you have the preload spring screwed in on the wastegate. I didnt do this on my precision and it wouldn't build any boost.
Old 03-21-2013, 09:40 PM
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i dont think i have a preload spring on mine but ill check. mines a wyntonm 44mm vband wastegate with a 10lbs spring. i dont think its even opening though cause the wastegate pipe is not even hot. so i think i have a massive exhaust leak some where. i think im gonna have the band clamp on removed and put a vband clamp on it. im also gonna hve the cats removed and put the resonator on it. i think the cats are still leaking. im also gonna make sure the headers arnt leaking either. that and make sure the turbo header is tight on the exsisting pipe
Old 03-21-2013, 10:03 PM
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not lookign forward top taking the bumper back off to take the intercooler off so i can clean it out my BOV was spitting out oil thats on the discharge side of the intercooler.... so im pretty sure theres oil pooled all in it. I got to here that BO sound though lol doesnt blow off too loud but its a nice audible note when under load and then throttle is released. sounds pretty cool lol now to put it to some use to get some boost in there. it builds up to about -4Vac and then thats it. no boosty
Old 03-21-2013, 10:27 PM
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If you got oil in charge pipe, then turbo might have taken a ****, or scavenge pump isn't pumping.
Old 03-21-2013, 11:10 PM
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im thinking its a combo of getting too much oil and too long of a pre scavenger line thats got too much up hill routing. so the gear oil pump isnt sucking enough oil out.
Old 04-09-2013, 07:54 PM
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Ive made a start. got a new oil feed flange with .040" restiction. down from .080" on the current setup. Also gonna short the pre pump return line and have go almost right on top of the axle instead up over the entire panhard support bar.
Old 04-09-2013, 10:19 PM
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Did you find your boost leak? I had leaks on both the cold side and the hot side. On the hot side, it was loose bolts and a crappy gasket on my exhaust manifold flange to the y pipe. Also, just found another nut loosened up on the y pipe yesterday on mine. I never realized how much these things can loosen up.
Old 04-10-2013, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83
i actaully found that that 2bar map sensor that GM makes is NOT just a drop in and plug it in kinda deal. you have to cut off and file down the side thats closest to the intake manifold in the back. it "plugs" in on the harness but putting it in the manifold is another story. somthing some people have failed to mention. i broke the first one i tryed to stick back there and had to shell out $100 for another one form the parts store ;( no happy about that.
thanks for the info luckily my motor is still in a million pieces so shouldent be hard to get to, good luck getting the leaks sorted out.

Last edited by pnykillerz28ls1; 04-10-2013 at 06:57 AM.
Old 04-10-2013, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by HRHohio
Did you find your boost leak? I had leaks on both the cold side and the hot side. On the hot side, it was loose bolts and a crappy gasket on my exhaust manifold flange to the y pipe. Also, just found another nut loosened up on the y pipe yesterday on mine. I never realized how much these things can loosen up.
na, not yet. i just started a new job after i got back from easter vacation and havnt had a chance to work on the car. ill be off friday though so i can check it out then. im suspecting that the welds on the cats, an old band clamp on the ypipe, and the ypipe clamp are either loose or have holes. i also need to check the header bolts and EGR hook ups to make sure they arnt leaking.
Old 04-12-2013, 07:59 PM
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Alrighty,
after replacing doing an oil change on the expedition i started hunting down boost leaks.
heres what i found...
i already knew about the cats leaking so i put some of that thermotemp cold weld crap that can stand up to 1200 degrees. i patched all the way around just in case for over kill lol. i also put some muffler putty on top of it for good measure. then i wraped the exsiting exhuast wrap around it and then sprayed the whole exhaust with silicon spray since i didnt before. I also put the steel ties right on top of the seams of the welds. Now to let that crap cure for a day or so.

I also put some ultra copper high temp sealant on a band clamp and sealed it up real good and then tighten the CRAP outta it lol. i also put some on the v-band clamp on the rear of the car between the existing exhaust and turbo header pipe. i also tighten the turbo inlet studs some more.

I then proceeded to take apart the wastegate and make sure i didnt pinch diaphram. all good there, but i did put a small amount of silicon sealant (ultra copper) between the diaphram and wastegate body and the threads of the cap so it dosnt leak out the bolts. just a very small layer, not all gooped on lol and then tighten it down.

i also put some sealant on the wastegate to turbo header pipe.

I then fixed up the oil portion by shorting the 10an pre pump hose by about 6" and straightened the path a bit so its not going all the way up by the body of the car.
I then relaced the .080 turbo inlet restriced flange with a .040 restricted flange. i can already hear the pump difference between the two flanges. the pump isnt being bogged down by oil now.

i also "drained" the turbo lol it had ALOT of oil still in the turbo oil chamber. i was quite suprised, and no the top part of the feed line has a check valve and i had already drained that portion form replacing the flange. so yeah, id say it was getting too much oil lol id imagine a better pump like a turbowerx could keep up, but i dont think this one has the umph lol

i then proceeded to check the charge side and reconfigure the front pipes pre intercooler. tucked it up higher and rotated some clamps to gain some front end clearance. LOL also, pumping the tires back up to 32psi gained me a touch of clearance too lol i had them at 20psi lol oops

cleaned out a bunch of oil from pipes. i lost about a quart of oil from these but at least the rest of the system is sealed so i got that going for me lol

Oh and to top it all off i found a clamp that was too big and wasnt tightening down enough to seal so i think i found the charge sides culprit. i think i also found the main reason i wasnt boosting AT ALL lol

So tomorrow after the metal patches cure overnight and the sealant cures on the other parts ill see if it gets any boost.

whats wierd that even when it only boosts to 0psi i can still hear the turbo spool up and feel it kick in and then when i release, the BOV goes off lol so i know the turbo is spooling back there lol. now i just need to test it lol

updates will follow soon.
Old 04-13-2013, 08:07 AM
  #298  
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Keep us posted, looking forward to seeing some post gremlin results once you get the leaks fixed.
Old 04-13-2013, 11:45 AM
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im assuming that depending on the return pump, a restritor is needed on journal bearing turbos. the smaller (less powerful) the return pump, the more restrition is needed.

I cant wait to get to the dyno to finish the tune and see what it can do

Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 04-13-2013 at 02:27 PM.
Old 04-13-2013, 02:34 PM
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so i took a look under the car and found that i gained clearance under the front of the car (got it going between the a-arm and Kmember)
so now the lowest thing is the turbo drain. Im gonna see if i can get a better drain transition so that its tucked up under there. i can see that ive dragged it once already on the 10 an coupler :/ so im getting this 10 an block to see if it will tuck up against the turbo so its not dragin on the ground lol id post a link but ls1tech seems to have updated their links app so it gives alittle more then i think the mods would like since its not a sposor. but when i get it ill post a pick.


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