1fast bird

iTrader: (22)

I think the only rod Lunati makes for the lsx platform is the billet ones. Pretty sure they no longer offer the non billet pro mods.

I had an issue with my last motor that pretty much made me decide it's a bad place to skimp. Not saying that I know for sure that it was a rod failure, but it opened my eyes to what the wrong ones will do. See for yourself......https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...nevermind.html

Bad News22

iTrader: (1)

So this whole rotating assembly rating system is driving me crazy. I called Callies again today to spec out a complete rotating assembly to see what they say and I yet again got a different answer. When I told them I needed an rotating assembly for a LS 427 build for around 1200-1300 crank hp they said I would need to less than a Magnum crank & Ultra I-Beam rods. Apparently the Compstar crank is rated to no more than 800hp and Compstar rods are now 900hp. I never thought picking out a rotating assembly would be so difficult lol. I was getting ready to pull the trigger on the Compstar stuff but now I am a bit leery.

1fast bird

iTrader: (22)

They are covering their ***. To be fair, they have no idea how much you will be spinning the motor to make that kind of power. 1200-1300hp is alot easier on parts if you only spin it to 6500 rpms vs. the same power at 8500 rpms. For that reason they are rating them at a "safe" power level. There are companies that won't even give a power rating for that reason. Just too many variables.

Get yourself a Callies Dragonslayer and do the Callies HD I beams. If you want more piece of mind get billet rods from either Oliver, Lunati or the Callies ultra billet. Any of the above mentioned will work great.

703crewchief

Any of the American made "racing" rods will hold that, probably the better chinese stuff will too. With what your block costs though, I would pony up for some of the big names.

Most rod horsepower rating comes from RPM though. A cup motor or a max effort NA small block drag motor spinning 10,000 rpm to make 900 to 1100 hp is exponentially harder on connecting rods than your FI motor making 1200 at 7500 rpm. It is the tensile strength that the HP rating comes from, not the compression strength.

Why do you think the SPS rod bolt option is so expensive on Carillos? That is the rods week point, the cap. Also, where is the thinnest point or least material on a con rod? The little end above the wrist pin, compression loads do not effect these areas at all. Start spinning that thing and get that piston speed up, that is when these rods break. Super high compression loads may bend them, especially detonation, but RPM is what really puts the hurt on them. So you may want to ask your favorite rod manufacturer how they come up with the rating. You may get one of the engineers to admit that yes this rod is fine at 1200 HP as long as the RPM doesn't exceed 7500-8000 rpm.

Bad News22

iTrader: (1)

I will only be spinning it up to 7000 rpm. After a long talk with Callies and yet still no concrete rating for the rods I have narrowed it down to their Compstar HD I-Beam or Callies Ultra H-Beam.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

You're a smart person using that rod.

speedracer5532

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, they might be a little over kill for my application but I know I don't have to worry if my rods are going to handle the power I'm making. Everything about the Dyer 300M rods are bad ***.

Bad News22

iTrader: (1)

Well after a long talk with Callies it looks like I will be going with their Dragonslayer crank and Ultra H-Beam rods. The should be a good combo for around 1300hp.

mike13

iTrader: (27)

Is that the ultra billet rod? Do they have the ultra H beam and I beam?

Bad News22

iTrader: (1)

It is an Ultra rod. They have both an Ultra H and Ultra I. My understanding is that there Ultra series rods are there top of the line.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

I agree that RPM is a factor and also intended usage. A dyno queen/street car can get away with a lot of inferior parts at big power levels. This is different then some one who races every weekend with good tires under their car. A race car that bangs the turbo and makes 20psi on the hit and carries 30 down the track is tuff on parts.

I have seen Eagle stuff survive just fine running high 7s. Then again I have seen some break too!

At an honest 1200+hp I would go for a oliver rod as they are very affordable. After 1800 if steel is the choice Dyers is the hot ticket.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

if proline says a rod will handle 1200, then call me a believer, and in their 1200hp capable ls package, they use callies compstar rods

http://www.prolineracing.net/engines...tfs-235-1200hp

oliver billet rods in the 1500,2000 and 2800 hp packages

super6ute

I just picked up a set of callies ultra H beams for my 416 LS3. They were recommended by callies over the ultra I beams (not sure why). They will be seeing 12-14psi via a BW S400

TermnEatr

iTrader: (24)

Budget build= rpm maxx-pro I beams....got money to spend= Oliver

milkplus

iTrader: (3)

This... but you also have to consider stroke. Still, any of the decent chinese H-beams will hold 1k+ all day on a turbo LS IMO. Compstars FTW.

killernoodle

Has anyone actually bent/broken a set of inexpensive H Beams with ARP2000 bolts? (compstar, manley, eagle, scat, k1, etc)

I don't recall anyone ever even doing that.

SRTKLLR

iTrader: (1)

I have a set of Oliver rods I no longer need. My engine builder used Manley rods instead. Will let them go for $800 plus shipping. PM me if interested.

I think they are 9.27 pin, 6.125, 2.100

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

I'm running scat rods along with mahle 4032 pistons making over 900rwhp. We'll see how it does in the long term.

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

yes there been a few of those inexpensive rods blow up in a motor.

A few of them bend up under very high HP too.

but most people with the cheaper stuff really dont push them really hard.
A few times at 1000hp for a dyno pulls then driving on street is a cake walk.

Ls sn95

Howard billet rods best bang for the buck you won't have any problems