Another JY LQ4 build in progress...
Another JY LQ4 build in progress... So I picked up a 104k mile JY LQ4 about a month ago. Got the top end all tore down and planned on running the bottom end as is. Well, since the motor came out of a truck that appeared to be driven on a gravel road, everything was filthy. It also appeared that it did not see oil changes on a regular basis as the internals were extemely tarnished.
This weekend I decided to tear down the bottom end and check everything out for peace of mind. Everything looked to be in good shape bearing wise but I will now have peace of mind knowing the bottom end will be slightly freshened up.
I have a few questions for you guys at this point. I am obviously going to replace all the bearings and rod bolts. Is it ok to go with stock replacement bearings? I had planned on Katech rod bolts as well but is there any reason that I couldn't us stock replacement TTY bolts to save some money or should I upgrade while I'm there? This motor will not see more than 6500 RPM and will remain around the 600 RWHP mark. Do I need to replace the end cap bolts as well or can the stock ones be used again?
I also had planned on re-ringing the pistons but am questioning this. Should I just clean up the pistons and use the stock rings? If I use the stock rings is there any real need to open up the top gap? I have seen some people who do and others who just run them as is.
Anything else I should do while in there? Although I could have easily ran the motor as is without taking it apart, I will now have peace of mind that most of the internals will be fresh and I can have the block hot tanked to get it cleaned up and painted easier.
Thanks for any help and recommendations.
This weekend I decided to tear down the bottom end and check everything out for peace of mind. Everything looked to be in good shape bearing wise but I will now have peace of mind knowing the bottom end will be slightly freshened up.
I have a few questions for you guys at this point. I am obviously going to replace all the bearings and rod bolts. Is it ok to go with stock replacement bearings? I had planned on Katech rod bolts as well but is there any reason that I couldn't us stock replacement TTY bolts to save some money or should I upgrade while I'm there? This motor will not see more than 6500 RPM and will remain around the 600 RWHP mark. Do I need to replace the end cap bolts as well or can the stock ones be used again?
I also had planned on re-ringing the pistons but am questioning this. Should I just clean up the pistons and use the stock rings? If I use the stock rings is there any real need to open up the top gap? I have seen some people who do and others who just run them as is.
Anything else I should do while in there? Although I could have easily ran the motor as is without taking it apart, I will now have peace of mind that most of the internals will be fresh and I can have the block hot tanked to get it cleaned up and painted easier.
Thanks for any help and recommendations.
ide leave the entire bottom end go, 6500 and 600rwhp no problem on stock junk. why spend the money.
just make sure the pushrods and lifters are not clogged up, other than that keep all that stock ****.
since you already have the heads off you might as well buy ARP head bolts or studs, the bolts are easier to install and remove studs can be a pain in the ***.
and any mls gasket will work great on the top end.
we have a 200k mile 6.0 in my friends firebird and it makes 380rwhp through a 80e and a ford 9 inch, with just a cam and headers, and we hit it with a 200 shot.
the motor looks like absolute dogshit and it has never given us a problem.
just make sure the pushrods and lifters are not clogged up, other than that keep all that stock ****.
since you already have the heads off you might as well buy ARP head bolts or studs, the bolts are easier to install and remove studs can be a pain in the ***.
and any mls gasket will work great on the top end.
we have a 200k mile 6.0 in my friends firebird and it makes 380rwhp through a 80e and a ford 9 inch, with just a cam and headers, and we hit it with a 200 shot.
the motor looks like absolute dogshit and it has never given us a problem.
i would say that ARP rod bolts and head studs are not going to stop you from nicking a ring land out of those pistons wich i would say accounts to nearly 80% of the failures on these motors, so i wouldn't touch anything else you don't have to.
