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Awesome Doug! I'm glad the settings I had you start with are working so well.
From what I can see in the video, the front end is rotating at a perfect rate and is transferring weight at just the right amount of speed. The tight compression setting is also allowing the nose of the car to stay up throughout the run keeping weight transferred on the rear tires.
I can't see what the rear is doing, so try and get someone to video tape that like I mentioned to make sure when you really start getting after it that you aren't hitting the tire too hard. With how I had you set the rears up, they should be fine unless you change rear gears or until you get to 18-20psi of launch boost.
With the rear gears you have, you will probably end up launching at 18-20psi to really get this thing moving.
From what I can see in the video, the front end is rotating at a perfect rate and is transferring weight at just the right amount of speed. The tight compression setting is also allowing the nose of the car to stay up throughout the run keeping weight transferred on the rear tires.
I can't see what the rear is doing, so try and get someone to video tape that like I mentioned to make sure when you really start getting after it that you aren't hitting the tire too hard. With how I had you set the rears up, they should be fine unless you change rear gears or until you get to 18-20psi of launch boost.
With the rear gears you have, you will probably end up launching at 18-20psi to really get this thing moving.
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From: Granby, Mass
Awesome Doug! I'm glad the settings I had you start with are working so well.
From what I can see in the video, the front end is rotating at a perfect rate and is transferring weight at just the right amount of speed. The tight compression setting is also allowing the nose of the car to stay up throughout the run keeping weight transferred on the rear tires.
I can't see what the rear is doing, so try and get someone to video tape that like I mentioned to make sure when you really start getting after it that you aren't hitting the tire too hard. With how I had you set the rears up, they should be fine unless you change rear gears or until you get to 18-20psi of launch boost.
With the rear gears you have, you will probably end up launching at 18-20psi to really get this thing moving.
From what I can see in the video, the front end is rotating at a perfect rate and is transferring weight at just the right amount of speed. The tight compression setting is also allowing the nose of the car to stay up throughout the run keeping weight transferred on the rear tires.
I can't see what the rear is doing, so try and get someone to video tape that like I mentioned to make sure when you really start getting after it that you aren't hitting the tire too hard. With how I had you set the rears up, they should be fine unless you change rear gears or until you get to 18-20psi of launch boost.
With the rear gears you have, you will probably end up launching at 18-20psi to really get this thing moving.
I didn't expect it to hook so well and these tires barely need a burnout which is nice. When I'm at the track friday ill give you a call and let you know. I do like the gear for the street but at the track im going through the traps at like 5800 lol
Next time out ill try launching with where my boost is at (16) and see how it does. I'm also going to work on my tune off the transbrake so it lights the turbo up way faster. Ill add some timing and lean it out should help things a lot down low. The less time on my transbrake the better!
Last edited by Camaro9969; Jul 21, 2013 at 05:10 AM.
Wow I can't wait to try that!! :-) thanks again!
I didn't expect it to hook so well and these tires barely need a burnout which is nice. When I'm at the track friday ill give you a call and let you know. I do like the gear for the street but at the track im going through the traps at like 5800 lol
Next time out ill try launching with where my boost is at (16) and see how it does. I'm also going to work on my tune off the transbrake so it lights the turbo up way faster. Ill add some timing and lean it out should help things a lot down low. The less time on my transbrake the better!
I didn't expect it to hook so well and these tires barely need a burnout which is nice. When I'm at the track friday ill give you a call and let you know. I do like the gear for the street but at the track im going through the traps at like 5800 lol
Next time out ill try launching with where my boost is at (16) and see how it does. I'm also going to work on my tune off the transbrake so it lights the turbo up way faster. Ill add some timing and lean it out should help things a lot down low. The less time on my transbrake the better!
Lean it out to 13.2-13.5 on the trans brake, and have fuel slowly taper in to 12.2-12.4 by 5psi. By 7-8psi you want your air fuel to be what it will be going down the track. Normally on pump fuel at your power level I shoot for 11.0-11.4.
This is the way I tuned Old Gold's car and a few others I've helped with. Works very well and makes the car very responsive.
Turn it up to 16psi on the leave the next time and don't mess with the shock settings at all. I bet you see a 1.38-1.40 60' on 16psi leave.
You just need to turn the power up so that you're at a higher RPM when you go through the traps. Until you get above 12-14% slip in the 1/4 I wouldn't worry about the converter.
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Well dialing it in will be put on hold. 
took it for a cruise didn't even get on it and spun a rod bearing. didn't expect that at all but pretty bummed. How the hell that it happened on the street and not beating the hell out of it at the track is beyond me. 1500 miles street driving 21 passes most with more boost also. But its a really annoying part to go. I will have the oil sent out I think instead of fixing this one ill just pick up another and swap my cam heads oil pump and timing chain over. Got a big chunk done already and will have it pulled saturday. Just still surprised since I had the slp oil pump clevelite bearings and arp rod bolts but guess it happens that way....
I guess on a positive note ill have the engine bay sprayed and get rid of my heater core while its out
took it for a cruise didn't even get on it and spun a rod bearing. didn't expect that at all but pretty bummed. How the hell that it happened on the street and not beating the hell out of it at the track is beyond me. 1500 miles street driving 21 passes most with more boost also. But its a really annoying part to go. I will have the oil sent out I think instead of fixing this one ill just pick up another and swap my cam heads oil pump and timing chain over. Got a big chunk done already and will have it pulled saturday. Just still surprised since I had the slp oil pump clevelite bearings and arp rod bolts but guess it happens that way....
I guess on a positive note ill have the engine bay sprayed and get rid of my heater core while its out
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Thanks man I appreciate that. It shouldn't be too bad if I grab another motor, just a lot of swapping parts over I'm trying to stay motivated.
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From: Granby, Mass
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Granby, Mass
I will def be there with ya Sept 1st though!
Thanks I appreciate it i'm hoping to have it running by next weekend just depends when i can get all the parts in. I'll need new gaskets and studs this time around just to be safe.
I'm running the rotella t6 but that will be the last time i ever run it. I'm sure thats not the cause but thats just how i am. One issue and im out! Im going with AMS oil next
Oh trust me i've thought of it! I would gladly take a ride down to NC to pick that up this weekend and tow your car back with me
Ya i knew i would be getting those comments lol
Only issue man is forged motors do not prevent a rod bearing issue. I was hoping to get 20-24 psi out of the stock motor and not sure what actually happened. I'll have the old motor torn down sat so i'll find out what can be repaired.