Ok, let me start by saying that for sake of this conversation the car in question is a 2000 Z28 with full suspension, fuel system, forged motor etc. so none of these things need be brought up in this discussion. I had been looking for the longest at going with an F1A procharger with FMIC. Under the assumption that it was cheaper than going with a custom turbo kit with FMIC that retains A/C, although that was not my only reason. But the more I put a pencil to it the more I'm curious of the price comparison.

So kit for kit,
D1 or F1 procharger, FMIC all piping and brackets

Vs

Front mount 78ish, FMIC, hot side, cold side, retain a/c.

 

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm

Check out my complete price for an F-1A kit at the above link. The options are found at the bottom of the page. If you want to see the installation instructions, send me an e-mail to brutespeed@gmail.com
Bob

 

they are both rediculous in their own little ways!

 

I was looking at you kit last night bob and several other times. When I delete fuel system, bov, etc and make my changes it end up around 7k I think. Then a good set of 17/8 or 2" headers another 80-1000. Where as turbo looks to be hot side and turbo, then cold side and intercooler are same for either kit. But I can find a hot side and turbo for around 2K. Trust me Bob, I want to go with one of your prochargers. But unless I'm missing something turbo seems cheaper whish I would have never guessed. Was I just miss informed with my sumption of procharger being slightly cheaper than turbo.

 

Alot of x275 guys are upgrading their F-1Rs to the new F-1X; so there are some smoking deals on F-1Rs out there if you look.

 

Personally I think that going Turbo is more budget friendly. I just had a rear mount custom turbo setup installed with a number of extras (not related to the turbo) for ~$7500, installed. Minimally invasive on the engine compartment, kept stock A/C, etc... only had to do new battery.
Summary of project: Custom Rear Mount Turbo on Stock 2002 Z28 Convertible
Installed (Turbo Portion of Project):
76mm On3 Brand Ball Bearing Turbo (Fast Spool, .96 A/R)
AEM Tru Boost Electronic Boost Control
Hot side flanges, piping
K&N Air Filter
60 lb Fuel Injectors
Scavenger oil pump and Nylon Braided oil lines, tapped in and return to Oil Cap
New in-tank fuel pump installed
Front Mount Intercooler w/coldside piping
All mandrel bent cold pipe from Rear to Front, connected to Intercooler and up to Intake
Cold Pipes Powdercoated to match car color
Snow Methanol Injection (Stage I) system
Wastegate / BOV
New Spark Plugs and MSD Plug Wires
50ft of Heat Wrap
Dyno Tune

Non Turbo extras:
Purchase and Install LS9 Cam with Kit and new valve springs
Purchase and Install UMI Sub Frame Connectors (Prepped and welded in)
Front and Rear Stainless Steel Brake Lines installed
BMR Chrome Radiator Support
New Odyssy 1200 Battery
Install Zeitronix Wideband (I supplied the unit)
2 Guage Pillar Pod
(and probably some other small stuff that I cant remember).

Whole project took about 5 weeks (I'm not his only customer) to complete.
Total cost was less than $8000 WITH installation.

Keep in mind, I have a stock motor otherwise. Stock manifolds, stock catalytic converters, stock bottom end.

Ran at 10lbs boost and got 550 rwhp. Nice big dyno curve, not straight line.

If I would have cut out the extras, just the Turbo Project would have been less than $5000 WITH professional installation and dyno tune. Because I'm not as skilled in working on cars, and don't have the tools/garage space/time to do it, I had a professional installation done. If you're handy, you could probably do the same project for a few grand less in labor.

Hoping to get in the low 11's or maybe even hit 10.9 @10lbs boost. We'll see. Car will be delivered back to me Tomorrow. I can't wait.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

 

Btw I just re read my previous post, forgive my previous post the spelling was horrible! Doing this on my phone while working. Let me also say im looking to compare more with the front mount set up and an F series blower since im looking for 800-1000 since this is going on a forged AES 390, edelbrock pro flo intake, bobs blower cam, and heads undecided but will be cathedral probably since the intake is.

 

^^^ also with meth and possibly E85 since I'm in dallas but would like to stay on 93 if I can do so safely and still achieve my goals. I know that CTSV that bob did ran 93 no problem around 860 if I recall.

 

I love the way a big procharger sounds!!

 

i wonder what the cost is on switching over to turbo from a D1? i want more TORQUE >

 

you could get 4-4.5k id say, thencall ky speed, and a nice wellrounded kit be around 7-8k or you can compound! lol

 

I would be u a motor first u can't expect a lot of torque on 5.5 psi.

 

You're only at 5.5 psi! Swap to a smaller blower pulley and get the boost up to 8 psi, it will make a night and day difference! Bob

 

Ya i know lol.....Im just at almost 600rwhp....isn't that pushing it on a stock short block??? I was thinking of going to a 4.25 pulley from my 4.38 and adding meth, but i want it to last this summer. Building an engine a year from now. Think 4.25 would be enough?

 

O yea.... Thread hijacked lol

 

Get that thing on e85 and let her eat!

 

See that's what i wanted to do, i even had a thread on it and ppl were saying i don't have enough fuel system for E85...

 

I'm going to day the cost is about the same (if your doing a quality turbo kit )but with turbo kit your able to piece it together over time and does not seem so bad , with procharger its a big lump sum of cash at once, which kinda sucks
I know for me it was easier to buy the turbo stuff over time , and was able to hide a lot of the cost from the wife

 

You will need a second pump and a boost ref fpr and convert your evap line to a return line , this will cost no more then 400$
If you keep it under 10# your injectors should be fine

On a side note and not trying to knock you at all but your dyno #s seem kinda high for only 5# of boost

 

I may have to look into doing that. I want a solid write up on how to add a second pump to a 2000 fuel tank. The sticky is for a 98. As far as i my dyno numbers i could see where you would think that. It was peaking at about 5.7 5.8psi at redline. Heresy the dyno chart, Mike Norris in Indianapolis tuned it both times. I made 383rwhp cam only which is on the chart, then the 571 is from adding the procharger obviously.