Guys that other thread is gigantic. I was hoping some of the cogs owners could fill me in on the current status of their pullies. I'm thinking of ordering in the next few weeks. Would like to hit 10-11psi at 6200 rpms. I've read some where you guys are debating tooth count, keying the crank pully, belts breaking at 1500 miles, washers needed, belt not sitting all the way on the pullies.

Can you guys give an update on where the ASP pullies stand? Good bad or indifferent. What do i need to know beofre ordering?

Mike

 

ASP's customer service sucks thats all I know, If you are looking for that amount of PSI I would go with clints tooth count.....

me and jeremy and tom have to cut open the bracket slot for the idler 1.25" up to make room to run the belt under the tensioner, you have the steel bracket so you don't have to worry about flexing....I am going to cut my aluminum bracket, I got a support so I don't think it will be a problem......I had to use 3 washers on each stand off, I need to take my idler pulley to sikora to have machined down to clear the stock idler pulley so they do not contact.......

Tom is tuning is car on wednesday so we will see where the boost will be here at sea level, I will be getting my car up and running again by the weekend hopefully...... Then it just needs dyno tuning after that........

 

Tooth count 72 Crank and 29 Blower. Seeing 11psi at max Engine rpms 6500. Over spinning my little P-1SC-1, but shes holding, so far. 621RWHP 560RWTQ I'm happy with that..

Clint

 

bucshman if that is all you want to get then just go with the 8 rib like I have. as long as it is set up right you will have no issues. Im seeing 15 psi with no slip or breakage.

 

Scott, How much were the 8 rib pulleys compared to the Cog set ups price of $650??
Kyle

 

Well that's all I want to throw on a stock engine. When the engine is sent out and the magic is worked, I'll want to be over 15psi, gonna try and build a 20+ psi setup.

How far have the cogs, 8-rib, and the 8-rib self tensioning pullies been taken? I'd perfer to get the setup that is gonna take me to 20+ psi eventually.

Mike

 

well I have a 5 psi droop with the stock innercoolers, I am doing the front mount and will see a 3 psi increase. Il be around 19 psi with the same pulley set up as right now.

My set up was about $500

 

pul·ley ( P ) Pronunciation Key (pl)
n. pl. pul·leys

1. A simple machine consisting essentially of a wheel with a grooved rim in which a pulled rope or chain can run to change the direction of the pull and thereby lift a load.
2. A wheel turned by or driving a belt.

 

People spelling that word incorrectly is a pet peeve of PSJ from way back.

 

Yea.......

I've had the ASP 8 rib setup, with the tensioner maxed out I had no luck for more than a dyno pull....it would see 14psi and then nose dive........Jeremy had a similar problem w/his 6 rib stuff.....

The COG is much more heavy duty and I can see how it will work better.......

I still don't know how Scott does it, he tried to help guide me along w/my 8 rib dilemmas when I had them, but I never got anything solid out of the setup.........

 

 

See how Toms, tuning session goes first. All the problems have been pretty much covered in this thread. My dyno session was whacked because of my mail order tuning not being good enough and other problems. Lets see if they run into issues with KR, being that the cogs generate a ton of noise and vibration due to the cog belt being ran looser than a ribbed belt. I think this might be the main issue with these things. If you want to pulley up to 20psi eventually stay with an 8 rib set up, out of sheer availability of pulleys for that set up. We are limited to two sets of cogs so far, Clints tooth count and our tooth count. You might see the boost you want with ours if you plan on spinning it higher than 6500. As far as knowing the potential of the cogs, that still has to be worked out with a few of us, as this set up is too new for any strong, accurate info to be handed out.
Wait and see the results of the dyno session though(Tom) Maybe he can post up any problems they had with them,
J

 

I guess he is waiting another week for tuning, but thats soon enough for me...

I found a source where I can use a fkywheel holder and a 250ftlb TQ wrench......gonna cut 3 threads off the crank bolt and only use one washer this time with red locktite, get that crank bolt tight, and use an impact to get it tighter, I want that sucker on there this time.....

Just waiting on the pins now............

We are also going to clear out my bracket with a big drill bit, I'm sure that will work the best unless we find other little goodies in the tool box.....

 

Yeah, despite my egging, Tom wussied out until next week

 

I got my big torque wrench at Sears, I think it was around $100. It goes to #250.Cut the three threads off and leave the same amount of washers. That ATI crank bolt is plenty long enough, don't want it to bottom out and give you the feeling it's tight. Steve used a cut off wheel and made small cuts and then ground them out with a die grinder to make the slot longer.
Tom

 

So are you running 2 washers even with the bolt cut 3 threads?

 

Yup two washers and the bolt cut.

 

I'm curious why you guys use 250ft/lb torque, I'm pretty sure the TTY method ends up a lot tighter then 250ftlbs. Years ago when I first checked an LS1 it was closer to 350ft/lbs after doing the factory way but different things on the threads will change the torque reading. On every ATI I installed (been around 6 now) I did the 37ft/lb 140 degree thing and never had one come loose. The last couple new bolts I got from ATI were already cut down also..

No luck on getting that pin kit jeremy, the guy disappeared off the planet

 

I think the bolt needs a lot of TQ on it, the COGS have a good amount of tension on them and at a high rate of speed w/the RPMS it can become a problem, I'm sure mine was WAY tighter than 37ftlb with a 140degree turn......we maxed out a 150ftlb tq wrench and then some with 3 different people turning away at the bolt w/the flywheel holder on, basically we physically couldn't turn the bolt any more, I was suprised that mine backed out, but this time its red locktite......

 

Speaking of Vibration and noise. When I first fire up my car it stumbles quite a bit before going into closed loop. It's kinda cool to feel the shaking of the car, steering wheel with the lope of the Cam. I do hear a chatter coming from my blower bracket, as the cogs is causing the vibration. I could get rid of it by getting my belt tight, but that would end the belt life fast. Once the car goes into closed loop, the engine does not stumble soo much from the 50lb injectors and high load coming from the accessorys, A/C, and the Blower. Once it goes into Closed loop the vibration and rare clanking noise from the blower goes away.

My blower now is making a new noise. It's got a higher pitched whine now. I thought it was low on oil, cause like most other ATI head units, mine weeps a little oil too. I changed the ATI oil, it lost a little but not much. The high pitched whine went away. Then came back after a few minutes. Found out it does it when the blower gets hot..

One thing all of us need to realize. once our car start to push this kind of power, issues will allways crop up. I drive my car all the time now, and my friends hear me complain about this or that. I have some other friends here in town with about the same power as me, with a Vortech T-Trim Blower LT1. I hear from him all the time how ATI this and ATI that, how ATI could have made this better, or they really did a F#$K job on this Clint. He always talks about how his T-Trim hardly ever causes him problems. The difference is, I drive my car 4 days out of the week. He hardly ever drives his, ever.

2 things I would like Lee at ASP to solve for me personaly. Make a Cogs setup with a Spring tentioner, and change the Aluminum Bracket to Steel, so it won't flex soo much. Also, I wish ATI made their bracket so you won't need to drop the blower every time to change your belt. With a 6rib I guess it was not soo much of a big deal. With Cogs, and dropping your blower all the time you break your belt, sucks. It's been 7 times now in 11,000 miles and 13 months. That's 1 time in every 6 weeks or so. It sucks..

I know there is a guy out there making a spring tentioner for ATI setups. I just dont want to spend the 600 right now.

All in All, COGS is worth it guys. Gotta find out a way to make it work. I'll take some pictures of my setup for you guys here soon to compare them.

Take care.

Clint