Around how much rwhp gain will I get with D-1SC on 8-9 psi?
#1
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So I have a 99 z28 with full bolt-ons- Fast 90/92, SLP Lid, LT's, ORY, 3" cutout, 3400 stall, and pcmforless tune. I'm guessing I make somewhere around 360 rwhp now? What gains would I see adding a D-1SC running 8-9 psi? I would like to see 500rwhp adding the D-1SC and be able to trap 123+ mph. Are my expectations reasonable? What are possible gains with my setup and the D-1SC?
#2
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If you can set it up for e85 fuel I would say more than your block and stock transmission can take
. That FAST90 is not friendly with boost as the later versions (92/102) didn't have bursting problems. With low boost like that it should be fine though... but higher will potentially have issues.
D-1SC also requires injectors, fuel system, and a retune. Above 550rwhp you are rolling the dice with your stock shortblock as piston ring lands fail and the stock rods are being pushed to their design limits. Some rod bolts would be smart!
.....there are guys running LS6 intakes in the 8 second zone with boost so if you need $ sell the FAST90?92 to setup this combo properly and get and LS6/ported stock TB.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
D-1SC also requires injectors, fuel system, and a retune. Above 550rwhp you are rolling the dice with your stock shortblock as piston ring lands fail and the stock rods are being pushed to their design limits. Some rod bolts would be smart!
.....there are guys running LS6 intakes in the 8 second zone with boost so if you need $ sell the FAST90?92 to setup this combo properly and get and LS6/ported stock TB.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Last edited by gnx7; 03-18-2012 at 09:18 PM.
#3
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i was at 393rwhp...then did 9lbs....did 600 on the dot. but the car never made it out of the dyno session. cam specs will determine alot of it....but the general rule is 20 horses per lb of boost. several things can affect this. mainly heads, cubes, and your overall setup of the system. usually if you can avoid belt slip it really helps out. that is why most of us are going to be using an aster bracket at some point or another. if i were you i would not go beyond 8 lbs....and i would most def put in at least some head studs...at least...or those things will come off and ruin the motor most likely. my head blew off and coolant went onto the cylinder walls and cracked the entire block.....but i made my number. numbers are not as important as track times. with a lil over 500 you will be more than satisified while you save the 1900 needed to forge your motor, and the 1000 to have the block machined, and hopefully you can do some things your self and cut machine shop costs. just my 0.02 i am just going by what i have been researching over the past few years.
#4
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If you can set it up for e85 fuel I would say more than your block and stock transmission can take
. That FAST90 is not friendly with boost as the later versions (92/102) didn't have bursting problems. With low boost like that it should be fine though... but higher will potentially have issues.
D-1SC also requires injectors, fuel system, and a retune. Above 550rwhp you are rolling the dice with your stock shortblock as piston ring lands fail and the stock rods are being pushed to their design limits. Some rod bolts would be smart!
.....there are guys running LS6 intakes in the 8 second zone with boost so if you need $ sell the FAST90?92 to setup this combo properly and get and LS6/ported stock TB.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
D-1SC also requires injectors, fuel system, and a retune. Above 550rwhp you are rolling the dice with your stock shortblock as piston ring lands fail and the stock rods are being pushed to their design limits. Some rod bolts would be smart!
.....there are guys running LS6 intakes in the 8 second zone with boost so if you need $ sell the FAST90?92 to setup this combo properly and get and LS6/ported stock TB.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#5
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i was at 393rwhp...then did 9lbs....did 600 on the dot. but the car never made it out of the dyno session. cam specs will determine alot of it....but the general rule is 20 horses per lb of boost. several things can affect this. mainly heads, cubes, and your overall setup of the system. usually if you can avoid belt slip it really helps out. that is why most of us are going to be using an aster bracket at some point or another. if i were you i would not go beyond 8 lbs....and i would most def put in at least some head studs...at least...or those things will come off and ruin the motor most likely. my head blew off and coolant went onto the cylinder walls and cracked the entire block.....but i made my number. numbers are not as important as track times. with a lil over 500 you will be more than satisified while you save the 1900 needed to forge your motor, and the 1000 to have the block machined, and hopefully you can do some things your self and cut machine shop costs. just my 0.02 i am just going by what i have been researching over the past few years.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
#6
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Put a boost friendly cam in the motor with the correct supporting mods to handle it, set of ARP head studs, and meth injection kit to help keep it alive. All I takes is one bad tank of gas and boom! Also don't even mess around with factory procharger J-bracket and get the aster setup alot less headaches then trying to stop belt slip. With the said stuff I wouldnt even think twice to run 8-10psi. Do a compression test on the motor, if it has good compression then let her eat. 500hp won't be a problay at all with 8psi
#7
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I don't want to put a cam in it if I'm going to boost. I would like to get as good of gas mileage as possible if I'm dropping 7k for a procharger. I will read up about meth injection, but I'm really not wanting to have another thing to be buying on a reg basis... I'm guessing 91 octane is all that should be ran with a procharger and nothing less correct?
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#8
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I don't want to put a cam in it if I'm going to boost. I would like to get as good of gas mileage as possible if I'm dropping 7k for a procharger. I will read up about meth injection, but I'm really not wanting to have another thing to be buying on a reg basis... I'm guessing 91 octane is all that should be ran with a procharger and nothing less correct?
if that is all you can get, but 93+ is preferred, but just tell your tuner to make it very safe. then add methanol if possible. I did not see any significant decrease in my fuel consumption when I added my cam. the cam is what wakes these cars up. But hey, that stock cam, will not inhibit you at all. But your numbers will prob stick around low 500's. which honestly is where you are going to wanna be anyways to let the stock bottom end eat for a lil while, head studs are still a good idea. I might even go as far as to say drop the pan and do rod bolts, but then i would be a hypocrite because I sure as hell didnt. And that is where this came from.
![](http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii107/kief4diamonds/cracked.jpg)