Huron Speed + 1999 Z28 Build Thread
yes, I have poly mounts
Yes, you will need a spacer to keep the sway bar. You don't need to keep the swaybar but IMO the car drives so much better. I used spacers from a body lift kit for a truck...
Yes, you will need a spacer to keep the sway bar. You don't need to keep the swaybar but IMO the car drives so much better. I used spacers from a body lift kit for a truck...
It throws it off slightly so I ended up using different end links (more for clearance than geometry). The actual alignment of the swaybar isn't too critical for it to function correctly.
[QUOTE=1999Black_Z28;16721439]yes, I have poly mounts
Did u have this issue with the stud on the manifold hitting the k member? I'm wondering if the poly mounts will make a diffence
Did u have this issue with the stud on the manifold hitting the k member? I'm wondering if the poly mounts will make a diffence
looks good, In the end I'd like to do something like this. What is your primary use of the car? Street machine, track car?
Last edited by jbridwelltransam; Oct 5, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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I'm running an RST McLeod Double disc clutch good up for 800hp, its really smooth and soft. There's also a 1000hp version RXT, you cant go wrong with any of these. I just got a turbo kit from the Huron Speed GP sale, I'm running almost exact same setup as you, 347 forged engine, 317 ported heads and a bigger cam than yours, had many doubts about the install till I read your post, what about the steering wheel lines? Did they come with the kit? Awesome build, keep up the good work!!
[QUOTE=02LS1ram;16722776] Very simple fix to this if you run into this scenario on the factory K-member. 
Remove the stud from the truck manifold. Run to your local hardware store and grab a Stainless T-Nut in M10x1.5. Place the T-Nut in the bolt hole of the Crossover flange so the threads face up. I would put a tack weld on the T-Nut to the flange so it will not spin on you. Then simply thread in a M10x1.5 bolt from the top side, down through the manifold and into the T-Nut in the crossover pipe!
Jon
Remove the stud from the truck manifold. Run to your local hardware store and grab a Stainless T-Nut in M10x1.5. Place the T-Nut in the bolt hole of the Crossover flange so the threads face up. I would put a tack weld on the T-Nut to the flange so it will not spin on you. Then simply thread in a M10x1.5 bolt from the top side, down through the manifold and into the T-Nut in the crossover pipe!
Jon
__________________
Featuring 6 different turbo kits for your F-body!
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Featuring 6 different turbo kits for your F-body!
Check us out on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/HuronSpeed
I bought the CBR / Modular Turbo power steering lines because I kinked my stock lines. Not really needed but I wanted the peace of mind that my PS would work when I needed it to.
No speedo shots. Was planning on going to the track last Sunday but it was cancelled due to rain. I am going to try again this Sunday but right now they predict a 70% chance of rain. If that doesn't work I will try the following week...
Fans are pretty easy to wire up. Here is a quick run down of how I wire them up! 
Take the green wire that is supposed to go to the A/C clutch and cut it off. If you do have A/C and wish to use this feature, by all means run it to the A/C compressor.
Take the Orange Power wire with the in-line fuse and tie the Black wire into it. Then run them to 12v power. I run these orange wires to the post on the fuse box. I also had some issues with the supplied 30a fuses. Switched to 40a fuses and never blew a fuse again.
Run the Red power wires to the Power wires (blue) on the fans. I like to use connectors here so you can easily remove the radiator/fan combo in the future should you have to and not have to cut wires.
Run the 2 yellow wires together into 1 wire, extend and run across to the passenger side by the battery. Here you will want to find the dark blue wire in the harness that runs over the shock tower. This is your PCM's trigger to turn the fans on (ground). You can tap into this blue wire, or cut and connect it to the PCM side as the other side goes to your own fan harness (unused). This is just a trigger wire so if you extend, 18awg will be fine.
The power wires from the fans connect to the red wires of the harness as mentioned above. Keep at least 12awg.
The ground wires from the fans run to a good chassis ground. Keep at least 12awg.
Jon
Take the green wire that is supposed to go to the A/C clutch and cut it off. If you do have A/C and wish to use this feature, by all means run it to the A/C compressor.
Take the Orange Power wire with the in-line fuse and tie the Black wire into it. Then run them to 12v power. I run these orange wires to the post on the fuse box. I also had some issues with the supplied 30a fuses. Switched to 40a fuses and never blew a fuse again.
Run the Red power wires to the Power wires (blue) on the fans. I like to use connectors here so you can easily remove the radiator/fan combo in the future should you have to and not have to cut wires.
Run the 2 yellow wires together into 1 wire, extend and run across to the passenger side by the battery. Here you will want to find the dark blue wire in the harness that runs over the shock tower. This is your PCM's trigger to turn the fans on (ground). You can tap into this blue wire, or cut and connect it to the PCM side as the other side goes to your own fan harness (unused). This is just a trigger wire so if you extend, 18awg will be fine.
The power wires from the fans connect to the red wires of the harness as mentioned above. Keep at least 12awg.
The ground wires from the fans run to a good chassis ground. Keep at least 12awg.
Jon
__________________
Featuring 6 different turbo kits for your F-body!
Check us out on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/HuronSpeed
Featuring 6 different turbo kits for your F-body!
Check us out on Facebook at: www.facebook.com/HuronSpeed
Cool, are you still on 6 lbs?