ToxicWS6

Used another floor jack and a 6x6 cause it was a small jack, but imo if ur with a friend u dont really need one under the kmember cause it dosnt really just fall out u have to kinda fight it out, so u could get it done with just 2 jack stands and a floorjack (i used a big 6ton floor jack and some pretty tall 6ton jack stands, i have big trucks too so had them around)

Only real thing i can say is look over ur front end, like control arm bushings, sway bar links, buy them and prepare better lol, i had to make a couple trips to buy sway bar links, then buy new control arm bushings, then ball joint press to get the bushings in, minus the control arm bushings it was fairly easy, just time consuming, do recommand removing the ac compressor and lettin it hang over fighting the engine mount bolts

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I already replaced ball joints, upper/lower control arm bushings, and sway bar links but thanks for the tip. I also reversed the long bolt direction on the pass side motor mount when I did headers and poly mm's so the a/c comp could probably stay on. Im assuming your referring to having to remove the a/c comp to get the long bolt out the front of pass side motor mount, right? Good info and thanks...

ToxicWS6

yeah thats the only reason, so u might not have too, and for hte rack and pinion if u reinstall the driver side bolt so the bolt goes through the bottom up towards the top u wont have to drop the kmember when u do the rack and pinion, i had to do my rack and pinion right after cause i broke a seal,

my alternator relocation kit came in the other day and i didnt even look in the box yet very unlike me lol, hopefully do this weekend and give up date

as of the last week or so though im saving up and might be moving out and buying a house so this might be put on pause for a while till i get some things straightened out but will see