Why #7?
You do realize that Kurt in this thread is Kurt Urban right? Maybe you do not know who all the big boys are.
i dont believe its the water temp, i have a temp gauge on the front and rear , rear is 10-15 degrees hotter, after a run my rear temp is around 180, i also run a shimed wide open thermostat to keep engine cool
I run a dedicated line fron the rear steam ports and tapped into the suction side of the waterpump, hoping it draws the water from the ports. my motor is untuned, just good a/f and locked out timing, I ran a 6.0 for a year and 5.3 for 2 years and no problems.
I run a dedicated line fron the rear steam ports and tapped into the suction side of the waterpump, hoping it draws the water from the ports. my motor is untuned, just good a/f and locked out timing, I ran a 6.0 for a year and 5.3 for 2 years and no problems.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 102
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From: Dela-Where?
Not really, but the piston oilers help keep ALOT of temp out of the cyls too.
They started using the piston oilers in 2005 with the GM 3.5l engine. They only installed it on one set of cyls though, #s 5 and 6. No others. It helped the problems with those cyls though. And they are the cyls that are fed first with air and fuel and have the T stat right by them.
They started using the piston oilers in 2005 with the GM 3.5l engine. They only installed it on one set of cyls though, #s 5 and 6. No others. It helped the problems with those cyls though. And they are the cyls that are fed first with air and fuel and have the T stat right by them.
as far as the meth....i think I def needed it even at 9lbs.....i started at 9 lbs...now I am going to max it out( anything that cools is a good thing)
.....at 9:6:1 and I will be using e85 and meth since I already have the kit. I dont mind a bit of overkill. I will be running steam ports if at all possible. I think it may depend on the heads. I read a few pages back that some aftermarket heads do not have the ports on them even. that would be scary.
yeah the exhaust would not be the key as I said, because there are true dual guys and dumped exhausts....I was just saying I was thinking about this some time ago and it crossed my mind....the issue is simply too much heat. somehow, we gotta get the temps in that cylinder down and as always avoid detonation at all costs. It would be nice to come up with a real solution though.
Last edited by I8UR4RD; May 18, 2012 at 11:14 PM.
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,230
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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
I might not be pushin the power levels some of you guys are, but after reading threads like "the Alchemist" started on the number 7 failures I knew I wanted to help prolong the life of my motor. Here are a couple pics of how it looks with an ls6 intake. I had the intake removed to install the fittings and line then slid it back into place. Don't mind some of the clutter, still cleaning up a few things.
Kurt if you have any suggestions on my mounting let me know. There were no instructions so I'm just shooting from the hip. Also I'm having my brother build a bracket to hold the manifold as it's sort of just free floating right now.
Kurt if you have any suggestions on my mounting let me know. There were no instructions so I'm just shooting from the hip. Also I'm having my brother build a bracket to hold the manifold as it's sort of just free floating right now.
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Verdad Gallardo May want to have the outlet tilted up at a slight angle to make it the highest point so air cannot be trapped at the back of the KUP manifold. I have installed one just like that on a 370 GTO and did the same thing.
I really like that kit.
I really like that kit.
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
this may be considered a little redneck and isn't pretty like the kit but, I just cut the two ends off the rear of the ls1 tubes, bent them a little so the ls6 mani would fit and hose clamped a piece of heater hose inbetween the 2 rear ports. Its not boosted but ive been running like that for over 5 years and have used over 3k lbs of n2o making 600 rwhp with np.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 102
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From: Dela-Where?
Venting all ports is great. But just thinking outside the box. How much block integrity would be comprised by drilling two holes in the side of the block near 7 h 8. Then welding some pipe bungs in and with a remote electric pump push cool water in there.
Just a though.
Just a though.
Kind of off topic, but I figured "what the hell, worth a shot" and picked up a 4 port steam vent setup from a 5.3L. For those of you that went with a setup like this on an LS6 manifold, did you just take a dremel and hollow out the "ridges" on the bottom of the intake manifold where the steam tubes run? The ridges are only a few millimeters - is that even enough to clear the tube or did you have to go into the bottom of the manifold a little bit?
i dont believe its the water temp, i have a temp gauge on the front and rear , rear is 10-15 degrees hotter, after a run my rear temp is around 180, i also run a shimed wide open thermostat to keep engine cool
I run a dedicated line fron the rear steam ports and tapped into the suction side of the waterpump, hoping it draws the water from the ports. my motor is untuned, just good a/f and locked out timing, I ran a 6.0 for a year and 5.3 for 2 years and no problems.
I run a dedicated line fron the rear steam ports and tapped into the suction side of the waterpump, hoping it draws the water from the ports. my motor is untuned, just good a/f and locked out timing, I ran a 6.0 for a year and 5.3 for 2 years and no problems.
What if it's a flaw in the design of the coolant passages in the head that causes coolant to not flow well enough over #7 combustion chamber? If coolant doesn't flow over it, the coolant temperature isn't going to rise, so it'll appear as though your temps are fine.
I'm just asking the question because I've never cut apart a head or done any kind of coolant flow study, so it's simply a theory
I'm just asking the question because I've never cut apart a head or done any kind of coolant flow study, so it's simply a theory
Mine was in the 10-11 o'clock position of #7, so upper left quarter of the piston.
But as you can see, I cracked the liner/block in the lower left. I'm not sure what the significance to the location it is, since the theory is it's the rings getting too hot and the gap closes up, causing the rings to bind and that takes out the piston, and sometime the block as well.
no vents on the front.