Why #7?
Maybe you should read the thread again and once more before you go correcting this person as he has already been shown this multiple times. Does your ASE cert mean that you are able to not read the entire thread, skip to the end, and post the obvious and already rehashed problem?
but yes, I did read the thread. Thanks for asking.
If you read the thread, you would know he is not my buddy. You are just upset because I made a remark about you toting your ASE Cert. Alot of people can take tests well. Thats all the ASE is. I know, I am a master tech too, but I do not flaunt it to give my posts validity like others do.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
If you can change the fuel supply to the rails that pretty much eliminates #7 injector having the least pressure or collecting any dirt causing the problem.
I don't know exactly how water flows through the engine, but if you can block the ports on the back and only use the ports on the front (LS6), I wonder if it would be better to block the ports in the front and only use the ports in the back, since they are farther from the water pump?
That would pretty much eliminate the intake manifold.
If you can change the fuel supply to the rails that pretty much eliminates #7 injector having the least pressure or collecting any dirt causing the problem.
I don't know exactly how water flows through the engine, but if you can block the ports on the back and only use the ports on the front (LS6), I wonder if it would be better to block the ports in the front and only use the ports in the back, since they are farther from the water pump?
If you can change the fuel supply to the rails that pretty much eliminates #7 injector having the least pressure or collecting any dirt causing the problem.
I don't know exactly how water flows through the engine, but if you can block the ports on the back and only use the ports on the front (LS6), I wonder if it would be better to block the ports in the front and only use the ports in the back, since they are farther from the water pump?
It is not the intake manifold. As Kurt stated, and a couple guys with bewsted LS4 cars that are still blowing up number 7 (yes, the actual 7, idiot). It's not because it's a front fed manifold. I saw an EGT comparison from some of the fast guys that blew that idea out of the water, and showed how bad some carb style intakes distribute air based on EGTs between cylinders. The fuel arrangement doesn't seem to matter either.
It basically has to be cooling related. The steam ports are a big help. GM didn't put them on some engines... but they also didn't put a turbo and an extra 500+hp. Putting your highest flowing injector on #7 is a good idea, and more cooling. I'm not a fan of colder thermostats, but maybe a little bit would help. Oil likes to be around 180 degrees, and I think people running around with 160 t-stats never get it there. A safe tune is a 100% must, and meth injection will help keep cylinder temps down.
There is no 100% fix-all, but a good combination of everything will sure help. Afterall, people are making 1000+hp on stock truck motors... these things can't live forever, and people should have no room to complain when one does pop.
It basically has to be cooling related. The steam ports are a big help. GM didn't put them on some engines... but they also didn't put a turbo and an extra 500+hp. Putting your highest flowing injector on #7 is a good idea, and more cooling. I'm not a fan of colder thermostats, but maybe a little bit would help. Oil likes to be around 180 degrees, and I think people running around with 160 t-stats never get it there. A safe tune is a 100% must, and meth injection will help keep cylinder temps down.
There is no 100% fix-all, but a good combination of everything will sure help. Afterall, people are making 1000+hp on stock truck motors... these things can't live forever, and people should have no room to complain when one does pop.
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Verdad Gallardo PS just because a t stat says 160, doesnt mean the coolant stays at 160. They normally regulate the temp to about 170-180. And the vettes have an oil temp sensor so you can log that also. The oil absorbs the heat from the combustion chamber. If your t stat says 160 it doesnt mean your engine and its oil get no hotter than that. It is just that it tries to regulate the engine at a lower temp.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Dela-Where?
If its cooling, I know most of you guys are running regular water pumps. What about remote mount electric water pump reversed cooling. Shove the cool water in the heads and the steam ports? Just a thought.
Elec water pumps are kind of a touchy subject around here. If you were looking at higher flow reg water pumps, you usually had to go with some expensive units. Now there is the Edelbrock, Meziere makes one, and now Nasty Performance offers some as well. They do flow more water, but its not the amount of water that is flowing through the block, but the distribution of said water and the ability to get all the air pockets out of it that is in question.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
I'm new to LS engines. I knew that the LT1 was reverse flow, and I guess just from the location of the thermostat I had always assumed the LS engines were reverse flow too. Heads cooler and bore hotter seemed like a good idea to me, though I can see how it would make it harder to get all the air out. From what I have found it seem the reason for not using reverse flow was legal, not technical.
Take a look at all the work done over the years to solve rear cylinder cooling problems in the first generation 400's. Front intake water passages are plumbed to pump water to the rear manifold water ports. Some have run off the water pump into the side of the block to try and get cooler water to the rear. The two motors are different designs but the ideas might be worth investigating. I also think the thin cylinder walls on the LS1 motors is a problem but won't got there here.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Dela-Where?
Take a look at all the work done over the years to solve rear cylinder cooling problems in the first generation 400's. Front intake water passages are plumbed to pump water to the rear manifold water ports. Some have run off the water pump into the side of the block to try and get cooler water to the rear. The two motors are different designs but the ideas might be worth investigating. I also think the thin cylinder walls on the LS1 motors is a problem but won't got there here.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Dela-Where?
I would like to see some of the big boy chime in. Like someone who builds these things day in day out. Maybe va speed or Texas.It seems funny that they haven't yet. Or there just laughing cause it just in the tune.
Last edited by miatainthe10s; Apr 11, 2012 at 01:45 PM.
The Evans cooling pumps are designed and modified for this specific issue. The housing is machined to more evenly cool all cyl.
EVANS COOLING SYSTEMS, INC. high flow coolant pump and pulley combination for the hot-running GM LS1/LS6 engines. The new LS1 Coolant pump and pulley combination, part number EP3913, is designed to not only flow more volume but to offer sufficient cooling to the lone number 7 and 8. Flowing over 20 percent more than the OEM style replacement pumps, the EP3913 maintains equal flow to both cylinder banks at any engine RPM. OEM style pumps do not. Evans has improved the design of the OEM casting to include a Billet pulley hub, heavy-duty 3/4″ roller bearing, and ceramic shaft seal. The EP3913 also includes the Evans 3.8″ OD 8 vane scrolled impeller to reduce parasitic horsepower loss at high RPM.
We have tested against a few popular Electric pumps and it more than doubles the flow at higher RPM. Electric pumps are like running a factory pump at just over 2000rpm all the time. The Evans pump increases flow across the entire RPM range.
https://www.nastyperformance.com/sho...ow-water-pump/
EVANS COOLING SYSTEMS, INC. high flow coolant pump and pulley combination for the hot-running GM LS1/LS6 engines. The new LS1 Coolant pump and pulley combination, part number EP3913, is designed to not only flow more volume but to offer sufficient cooling to the lone number 7 and 8. Flowing over 20 percent more than the OEM style replacement pumps, the EP3913 maintains equal flow to both cylinder banks at any engine RPM. OEM style pumps do not. Evans has improved the design of the OEM casting to include a Billet pulley hub, heavy-duty 3/4″ roller bearing, and ceramic shaft seal. The EP3913 also includes the Evans 3.8″ OD 8 vane scrolled impeller to reduce parasitic horsepower loss at high RPM.
We have tested against a few popular Electric pumps and it more than doubles the flow at higher RPM. Electric pumps are like running a factory pump at just over 2000rpm all the time. The Evans pump increases flow across the entire RPM range.
https://www.nastyperformance.com/sho...ow-water-pump/
