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Why #7?

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:59 AM
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Default Why #7?

So I tried searching for the answer since I'm sure it's been asked before but I couldn't find anything. So it seems that #7 and 5 ringlands are most common of the 8 cylinders for failure. Can someone tell me why?
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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Coolant flow issue. If the the steam vents ports are blocked off in the rear of the heads it causes the cylinders to run hotter on #7 cause there is no way for the steam vapors to exit the rear of the head. Search "water vapor collection system"
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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^what he said. I have just the fronts vented, but I'd like to vent the rears too using this.

http://kurturbanperformance.com/ls-w...or-system.html

I know there are many other guys that did similar setups on the cheap so you'll probably hear them chime in.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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Thanks for the quick response.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by willizm
^what he said. I have just the fronts vented, but I'd like to vent the rears too using this.

http://kurturbanperformance.com/ls-w...or-system.html

I know there are many other guys that did similar setups on the cheap so you'll probably hear them chime in.
Doesn't that place the connection higher than the radiator port?

I thought the radiator port had to be the highest spot?
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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Also, I read somewhere that it is also due to the fact that the last spot of the intake port, thus all of the remaining incoming air forces into the #7, so it runs leaner.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:34 AM
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I want to add to this question. At what point with a FI car does this become more necessary? I want to do this regardless and will be pushing between 12-17psi on e85, but I'm by no means a high hp turbo car either. I guess I'm trying to get a sense of urgency. Also my block is a forged ls1 with the fronts vented using the stock connection
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:34 AM
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Most guys remove the factory four port ones when going to a ls6 mani or fast. But you can always trim the bottom side of the mani for the stock 4 port steam vent to clear if your not using a standard ls1 mani.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
Doesn't that place the connection higher than the radiator port?

I thought the radiator port had to be the highest spot?
That I'm not sure of, but with my griffen rad stood up I'd think that my port is in a higher position than stock. I'd have to measure and pull out the old rad to be certain
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:39 AM
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Drill and tap the top side of the water pump and insert a npt to hose barb. Problem solved
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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I have read without of coolant crossover in the rear air can I believe collect in the back of the motor near #7 and it gets hot...... I could be wrong, I'm sure others will chime in. If that is the case get a 4 way coolant crossover from a 97-99 Corvette ( this will only work with some lsx intakes)
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADAZZSS
Drill and tap the top side of the water pump and insert a npt to hose barb. Problem solved
Hmm i like this idea. Where on the pump do you drill? Got a pic?
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gimmeluvin
Hmm i like this idea. Where on the pump do you drill? Got a pic?
Straight down on the top radiator/hose port of the water pump, on the ls1's their is a round flat spot, directly above where top hose goes, drill and tap their

ALSO< The truck motors have a 4 port steam vent setup from the factory as well.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JAX04
Straight down on the top radiator/hose port of the water pump, on the ls1's their is a round flat spot, directly above where top hose goes, drill and tap their

ALSO< The truck motors have a 4 port steam vent setup from the factory as well.
Thank you.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 02:25 PM
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I plan on making these custom water vapor lines in about 2-3 months for those that are interested. I have the same setup on mine.



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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by westtexasbuff
I plan on making these custom water vapor lines in about 2-3 months for those that are interested. I have the same setup on mine.



nice routing... but I have used those gaskets before...and THEY SUCK!!!
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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I'm not 100% certian either, but am a victum of the dreaded dead #7 ringland. I actuall broke both of the top two ringlands and did it on a cold day and never saw knock.

Last edited by The Alchemist; Mar 28, 2012 at 08:48 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:06 PM
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You can use two LS6 crossover pipes. One in front, on in back, connect them with a T fitting to go into the stock location. When I did my FAST intake this is what I did. Cheaper than some of the aftermarket stuff out there.

I too have wondered about the #7 problem. I had always assumed it was because the way the intake was designed.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
Also, I read somewhere that it is also due to the fact that the last spot of the intake port, thus all of the remaining incoming air forces into the #7, so it runs leaner.
Not true. Even when guys have reversed the intake on track setups, they still have issues with #7. Firing order does not help either.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:59 PM
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you'll crack #7 hole if you dont have the rear steam tubes hooked up.
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