any street cars run without thermostat?
#24
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Remember these motors were designed to operate at a certain temp in order to achieve the most power AND lowest specific fuel consumption.
Running the car under temp will actually cost you power and fuel economy. The LS motors make best power (and highest efficiency) at just over 200 degrees water temp, but less than 230, its the intake air temp that you really want to keep cool.
Just an FYI
Running the car under temp will actually cost you power and fuel economy. The LS motors make best power (and highest efficiency) at just over 200 degrees water temp, but less than 230, its the intake air temp that you really want to keep cool.
Just an FYI
#25
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Back when I installed heads and cam on my 2010, the stat got stuck or something and we were tuning, easy fix remove it and end the night.
Car was tuned and I forgot about the stat.. went on a 200 mile trip (highway speed) car was just TOO cool.. like barely hot..
Arrived destiny bought and installed a new one.
Car was tuned and I forgot about the stat.. went on a 200 mile trip (highway speed) car was just TOO cool.. like barely hot..
Arrived destiny bought and installed a new one.
#27
10 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
I've run the t-stat housing with the spring/diaphram removed, car stayed around 190 in summer months. On the same note, with a 160* t-stat the car would stay at 205-210* all day long no matter how i drove it. ls2 based 402, big cam, 11.7:1 CR. The tstat only made a 15-20* difference in my app. car still had A/C and everything else.
#28
Remember these motors were designed to operate at a certain temp in order to achieve the most power AND lowest specific fuel consumption.
Running the car under temp will actually cost you power and fuel economy. The LS motors make best power (and highest efficiency) at just over 200 degrees water temp, but less than 230, its the intake air temp that you really want to keep cool.
Just an FYI
Running the car under temp will actually cost you power and fuel economy. The LS motors make best power (and highest efficiency) at just over 200 degrees water temp, but less than 230, its the intake air temp that you really want to keep cool.
Just an FYI
#30
9 Second Club
iTrader: (119)
mine ran fine without a t'stat all last year after i swapped to a used meziere street pump that ended up being leaky with one in it. i decided to yank the stat out to see if it would stop the leak and it did 99% of the way and i've since put all new o'rings in it but i will go without a stat again until it gives me issues.
i ran it from high 90's in the summer to low 40's in late fall and it always stayed around 190*. idk yet this year with pusher fans and a griffin radiator.
i ran it from high 90's in the summer to low 40's in late fall and it always stayed around 190*. idk yet this year with pusher fans and a griffin radiator.
#33
9 Second Club
That's what you need to avoid when removing the stat. Any restrictors are not to slow flow down, but to ensure correct flow as the original manufacturer designed it to work.
http://stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm
There are few if any electric pumps around that will outflow a mechanical. They may do it slightly better at low rpm's, but they wont stand a chance at higher rpm's
So it's a trade off really. Plus an electric can be run after shutdown etc.
#34
Slow flow is bad. You want fast flow. But removing the stat can and will affect how the water flows through the block and any other pipes ( heat matrix inside car ) which can affecting cooling performance regardless of flow.
That's what you need to avoid when removing the stat. Any restrictors are not to slow flow down, but to ensure correct flow as the original manufacturer designed it to work.
http://stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm
There are few if any electric pumps around that will outflow a mechanical. They may do it slightly better at low rpm's, but they wont stand a chance at higher rpm's
So it's a trade off really. Plus an electric can be run after shutdown etc.
That's what you need to avoid when removing the stat. Any restrictors are not to slow flow down, but to ensure correct flow as the original manufacturer designed it to work.
http://stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm
There are few if any electric pumps around that will outflow a mechanical. They may do it slightly better at low rpm's, but they wont stand a chance at higher rpm's
So it's a trade off really. Plus an electric can be run after shutdown etc.
I just drove my car for the first time since re-build and tune. I installed a electric meizier and my water temps were 200-205 while high way driving. My oil temps stayed at 175-185. Is that normal? The T-stat is connector to the lower rad hose which is different than the traditional pump. Is it the same t-stat? My concern is that it's only 50 degrees out, what will they be when its 90"s?!?
Last edited by edge04; 04-01-2012 at 07:52 PM.
#35
Does anyone see an issue with my temps ^^^?
My fear is when the weather gets hot here. I need to check what stat I have but may go to a 180 or 95. Does anyone have pics of the holes drilled in them?
My fear is when the weather gets hot here. I need to check what stat I have but may go to a 180 or 95. Does anyone have pics of the holes drilled in them?
#37
9 Second Club
What control system is in place ? ie thermostat or some sort of electronic controller ?
Do these electric pumps just run flat out all the time or is flow controlled ?
Without knowing that Ive no idea if your temperatures sound high or not.
Obviously if you had no stat or a 160deg stat, then clearly 200deg is far too high so something isnt working.
And no, there is no chance the electric pump will outflow the mechanical. Not even close. But it will usually be adequate and the electric will require less engine power and can be run after shutdown. Which are the reasons most people buy them. Not because they perform better.
Any engines Ive drilled holes in the thermostat, all that ever happens is they take forever to warm up and cooling performance barely even changes.
#39
9 Second Club
Sounds very very high for a car with no stat. Either your water rad, cooling fans or water pump are at their limit already ! Unless ambient temps are very very high.
The radiator in my car is crap and barely adequate. And with the 160deg stat in place it easily achieves this when the vehicle is in motion.
The radiator in my car is crap and barely adequate. And with the 160deg stat in place it easily achieves this when the vehicle is in motion.
#40
I had typed a reply yesterday then my computer crashed...couldnt be bothered again lol
What control system is in place ? ie thermostat or some sort of electronic controller ?
Do these electric pumps just run flat out all the time or is flow controlled ?
Without knowing that Ive no idea if your temperatures sound high or not.
Obviously if you had no stat or a 160deg stat, then clearly 200deg is far too high so something isnt working.
And no, there is no chance the electric pump will outflow the mechanical. Not even close. But it will usually be adequate and the electric will require less engine power and can be run after shutdown. Which are the reasons most people buy them. Not because they perform better.
Any engines Ive drilled holes in the thermostat, all that ever happens is they take forever to warm up and cooling performance barely even changes.
What control system is in place ? ie thermostat or some sort of electronic controller ?
Do these electric pumps just run flat out all the time or is flow controlled ?
Without knowing that Ive no idea if your temperatures sound high or not.
Obviously if you had no stat or a 160deg stat, then clearly 200deg is far too high so something isnt working.
And no, there is no chance the electric pump will outflow the mechanical. Not even close. But it will usually be adequate and the electric will require less engine power and can be run after shutdown. Which are the reasons most people buy them. Not because they perform better.
Any engines Ive drilled holes in the thermostat, all that ever happens is they take forever to warm up and cooling performance barely even changes.
I'm going to buy a 160 t-stat tomorrow and see what that does. I also think that my temp sensor may be the wrong one so I ordered a new one, the one for short sweep guage.