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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:16 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by alexcoreas
Here is my 5.3 with 2 hours of love.



And when I took the heads off

that is not a 5.3 its a 4.8
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:21 PM
  #82  
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i dont want it unless its 200,000 + miles lol
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:38 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by denmah
i dont want it unless its 200,000 + miles lol
i picked up mine with 21,000 miles for 600 bucks cant say it was to bad of a deal.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 08:23 PM
  #84  
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I bought a 4.8 with unknown mileage for $200. Swapped cams and never took off the pan or heads. Great motor that turned 7200rpms daily for over a year. I sold it and it is currently getting swapped into another car. I replaced it with an 04 lq9 shortblock I was told with 44k miles on it for $600. It spun a cam bearing 2 weeks after the swap.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 03:25 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by b_evans06
I bought a 4.8 with unknown mileage for $200. Swapped cams and never took off the pan or heads. Great motor that turned 7200rpms daily for over a year. I sold it and it is currently getting swapped into another car. I replaced it with an 04 lq9 shortblock I was told with 44k miles on it for $600. It spun a cam bearing 2 weeks after the swap.
yea not looking to hear that !! i would of went with a lq4 or lq9 but im not really sure how they would of worked with my heads and intake ! 4 inch bore i would of rather went with a ls3 heads and intake! this lil l33 5.3 should scream with these prc heads with the right cam and boost
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #86  
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So when i call around for a 5.3 what is the eng code recommended? I want to give myself the best platform possible for boost, thanks! Also, were is a good place to get one? I have called lkq and they had a 5.3 for $400 with a $175 core.. Deal? 200k
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:01 AM
  #87  
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I'd look for the aluminum L33 motor. 5.3, aluminum, flat top pistons with very decent heads. 05+ had better rods supposedly.

Last edited by Sarg; Oct 13, 2012 at 08:07 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Sarg
I'd look for the aluminum L33 motor. 5.3, aluminum, flat top pistons with very decent heads. 05+ had better rods supposedly.
Thanks, i thought the iron block was the hot ticket? Good to know about the 05 and up rods...any other opinions?
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 01:43 PM
  #89  
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Hinda hard to see in the picture but the sleeves on the L33 are THICK. I measured them at about .240. To compare a Darton iron sleeve is about .265. So pretty darn beefy.

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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Sarg
Hinda hard to see in the picture but the sleeves on the L33 are THICK. I measured them at about .240. To compare a Darton iron sleeve is about .265. So pretty darn beefy.

Good info Sarg, thanks!
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #91  
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my first lq4 had 115k+ but i swapped arp rodbolts in it.....spit a rod bearing out after awhile. this one 85k+ and threw my 317's on it with ls9 gaskets and ebay studs. been fine so far beating the crap outta it every time i drive it. keep saying im gonna turn the boost DOWN from 20 but i just cant cant bring myself to do it!
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 05:50 AM
  #92  
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Where are you guys finding engines so cheap?
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:37 AM
  #93  
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Hi All,

I just pulled an L59 5.3 from a 2003 Tahoe with about 90K miles on it. It was $200 for the long block. I am wondering if there is a short checklist of things to do before putting money into building this. My plan is to have it bored out to 5.7l and stroking it with eventual boost from a SC. Just want to know if it is worth sending to the machine shop.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #94  
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A few months ago we Picked up a complete 4.8 with 225k on it for $300. It got a 228/230 112 cam ls9 gaskets and studs and a s480. On 18lbs it make 690whp It's in my buddy's daily driver and we beat the snot out of it every day no issues yet!
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #95  
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these blocks have a great reputation. I want similar power but I want it to last too, so thats why Im trying to put in the extra work. I found what seems to be the right shop. Only tips I found for machining was that they should use a torque plate which I knew. I also read that a gasket should also be used....The shop said their boring machine indexes from the pan rail and the main bore. It can't be too complex. I am having it sonic tested before the work begins just to be on the safe side.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:37 PM
  #96  
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My 5.3 had a claimed 150k on it when I got it.... I pulled it apart and it was clean inside, threw it back together and did my swap. Ran it for 6k stock and then threw a MP112 on top of it with 9lbs through it making 430whp for 3500 miles on it now without a hiccup.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:46 PM
  #97  
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Sounds like it will be a bulletproof beast!!! If you don't mind me asking... how much is it going to cost for all that?
(Secretly thinking of doing the same... )
PM if you don't want to put it out in the open.

Originally Posted by mapleridge
Hi All,

I just pulled an L59 5.3 from a 2003 Tahoe with about 90K miles on it. It was $200 for the long block. I am wondering if there is a short checklist of things to do before putting money into building this. My plan is to have it bored out to 5.7l and stroking it with eventual boost from a SC. Just want to know if it is worth sending to the machine shop.

Last edited by HRHohio; Apr 10, 2014 at 09:08 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:45 PM
  #98  
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I bought a complete intake to oil pan 4.8 out of a 2002 Silverado with 270k miles for $350. I usually wouldn't have paid that much but it came from my buddys truck and I knew it was strong and had been maintained its whole life. It was pulled for a 6.0 swap
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 10:00 PM
  #99  
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I paid 750$ for an lq4 I bought just to have. It was from a hummer that had burnt. All sensors, intake, anything plastic was melted. Only had 70,000 on it though.
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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 07:13 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by HRHohio
Sounds like it will be a bulletproof beast!!! If you don't mind me asking... how much is it going to cost for all that?
(Secretly thinking of doing the same... )
PM if you don't want to put it out in the open.
I'm still gathering costs but so far the machine work will be about $650 to have it cleaned, main studs installed, main line checked, sonic test cylinders, bore & hone and then decking. After that, I have been looking at texas speed and if I want the best internals for the short block it will be around $3000. That will complete the short block for the most part. After that I will have to look at heads and intake. Just not quite sure what the value of the different brands and makes of the internal parts are. I need to do a lot more research. I'm trying to do it once and do it right.
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