Ok well im fixing to pull my motor out and send it to the machine shop to be machined to a 347 and install main studs. Im a newb to FI and dont know much other than what ive read on here. Well my dilema is ive got a 99 hoss and will be daily driven ive was thinking of running a high end forged bottom end with mast small bore ls3 heads with a fast 102 with either a plate or DP BUT my buddy recently installed a d1sc on his G8 and that ducker rolls out and the whine is lovely and swears it will outrun most n2o cars. I camn get my hands on a d1sc with an epp front mount 8 rib setup for about 3500. I guess i just need some input on what i should do also what all would be needed to the block o-ring head studs etc... Again sorry for all the questoins i would like answers from people currently running these setups not getting bashed send me off to stickys


Thanks

 

imo d1sc i have one on my car and love it ... d1sc w meth on stock motor 575 rwhp in a 02 ss ls1

 

How many #s are you running i would like somewhere around 7-750rwhp through an m6

 

im running 12# there is a 4inch pulley on mine and remember my ls1 is bone stock ....7 -750 easily with the d1sc and proper componets/tune

 

Would that require head studs and o rings or would that be overkill? What fuel system are you running?

 

if this is your daily driver, you need to get another daily driver. High powered FI cars break things and you will end up spending time walking. Just my opinion buy a beater and then work on the ss. Oh yeah, had a procharger now going turbo.

 

dont know about the head studs/o rings mine is stock my fuel system im running 60# seimens injectors and a different fuel pump forgot name something 255 w hot wire kit alky control meth injection 100% meth

 

just curious why turbo ? i thought either the f1 procharger can put out what a turbo can or a d1sc maybe with a smaller pulley

 

I had an f1 on my car and got tired of the constant whine. Idling the car sounded like a screaming banshee. Also boost was very linear with the procharger. It came in gradual and made 12lbs up top, but not till around 6000rpms. I want the boost to come on early and also want the car nice and quiet for the sleeper look, lol. My car has stock speedline wheels on it.

 

No. An F1X (the Biggest in the F1 lineup) wouldn't touch a 91mm Turbo (which is still streetable). I say turbo and never look back. Also run ARP 2000 Series Head Studs (non 1/2") and GMPP LS9 Headgaskets.

 

X2
I would not rely on my camaro to get me to work everyday. I swear sometimes I spend more time taring it apart than I do driving it. Boost is like crack... I started at 8#'s, now I'm at 11#'s and I have a smaller pully and a meth kit waiting to go on the car. Hoping to hit 14-15 #'s this time... See, there I go messing with a good thing again

My vote would be for forced induction over NO2, nothing against the go gas but FI doesn't need to be refilled all the time.

 

600 rwhp and under reasonable over that get ready to open your check book. Define streetable? Ac? Ps? Pb?

 

i can see some benefits to going turbo route ...i went with d1sc bone stock motor and im at almost 600 rwhp i do want to be in the 800 rwhp sometime in the future just dont want to get rid of the d1sc ..i know my check book has def been open its not just the supercharger its the rear end the drivetrain the clutch etc

 

800 leads to a 1000 rwhp might as well do more.

We started strong but realized it was getting out of hand with the k member and a arms, brakes, spindles because of the weight because of the iron block weight.

I gave up on clutches and did a 4l80e but fuel system is adding up too!

 

Yeah this is currently my only car im kind of leaning towards the n2o route. Ive heard of the whine getting annoying after time from a lot of people. It mayhave to wait until i get a second car seeing how this is going to get me to work and school to during august. But then again you get power in demand unlike n2o your bottle pressure has to be right and if your out your screwed so im kind of stuck in between

 

Turbo---

Pros: Higher RWTQ, Low end TQ, and theres a wide variety of setups, and power does not "run out"

Cons: Setups Are Involved, Most need oil supply ran to them, tuning and bugs can be harder to trace, and some people end up saying **** it. It can be expensive. Often times, a new K member is needed, and A/C may need to be removed.


Nitrous----

Pros: Cheap, Easy to install, Huge TQ numbers, more power is a jet away, and a tune, cool engine temps, perfect for sleeper cars.

Cons: It runs out, needs to be at proper psi, does not justify you saying your car has 700 horsepower if your running a 300 shot. It has been known to send some intakes to intake heaven as well as other things when not introduced at the right times.


Supercharger-----

Pros: Medium install difficulty, well thought out fitment, self contained oiling, loud *** whistling scream to let em know you mean business. Has its own version of a BOV, accept its a bypass instead.


Cons: Belts can be an issue without an aftermarket bracket, or pulley setup, you cannot lie about how fast your car will be,they are expensive to rebuild, the rear wheel tq is not as high, you have drivetrain loss since it uses the crank to spin.


There is def more than that to all of those options, but that gives you an idea. With FI, as stated above, you are going to get into some serious money no matter how you stab at it. Fuel Pumps, Injectors, Dyno Time, Brackets, Belts, Transmissions, Suspension, Rear Ends, Gauges, Methanol, and so on and so on and so on.

Id say, if you got the dough, go FI, its more rewarding being that not everyone goes that route as compared to n20. But if you wanna have some spare cash, and still go fast no matter what, buy a nitrous outlet kit, and tune the thing. Either way, just have fun, and be safe.

 

Thanks a lot that break down does help out a lot i think im going to go the nitrous route for now because i will be starting college soon and thats the last thing ill need down is my ride but i will definetly go down that route later. Ive heard turbos arent as efficient in manual car due to losing boost in between shifts and some **** like that idk

 

Proven and reliable set up is 6.0 block, ls1 crank, forged pistons, h beam compstar rods 2000 arp bolt, ls9 head gaskets,317 or l92 heads, ls6 intake, brute speed blower cam, head bolts, main studs. Methanol or e85. F-1, fmic, 80lbs injectors, fuel pump.

 

If you do want to see a copy of the ProCharger installation instructions, send me an e-mail requesting them to brutespeed@gmail.com and I'll e-mail them back to you. Bob

 

I went nitrous first and enjoyed it for two years I now have a d1 with Fmic and I can't be happier. Not going to lie to do a procharger right you are going to fork over some serious cash. Like a lot. Like I'm a broke dick now lol. I would have gone turbo but with a six speed I like the linear power band. It's going to have the same hp at the same rpm everytime. I like the predictability of it. Plus most turbo setups you seem to have to hack up more of the car for it to fit .