rear turbo guidance
#21
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from what ive been reading wrapping the pipes is one of the next important things you can do next to getting a better oil pump, propper size injectors and spot on tunning
#22
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nogo the bov is the fleabay 50mm emusa on. I like it but when I have extra money im going to step up to a turbosmart.
Hrhohio yeah definitely let us know on your results im very interested. I wanted to originally run a comp turbo but the price was pretty steep for what I was quoted,but at some point I probly will upgrade to one
Hrhohio yeah definitely let us know on your results im very interested. I wanted to originally run a comp turbo but the price was pretty steep for what I was quoted,but at some point I probly will upgrade to one
.96 is going to stay on the shelf for a while.
<----- Happy!!!
#23
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I wrapped the exhaust on my Silverado with a rear mount the other week. Big difference, very noticeable, before it was wrapped it was doing 4 psi in 1st gear and going 7-7.5 in second gear. After the wrap, 6 psi in 1st and goes instantly to 10psi in 2nd gear. I'm thinking about giving it another layer of wrap, LOL..
I'm going to upgrade the turbo and probably go with the eBay gt45, should spool quick and still make decent top end power.
#24
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huh, well i might go with the .81 housing then lol sounds like that one seems to spool better in rear mount applications.
im guessing then that once you go over .81 ar and your at your limit for what the engine can push without losing spool a spool valve is the next evil process lol
im guessing then that once you go over .81 ar and your at your limit for what the engine can push without losing spool a spool valve is the next evil process lol
#27
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This makes me wanna do a rear mount on my firehawk so bad. Prob spend 2k and makes pretty decent power . I just cringe at cutting my bumper for a intercooler . Good luck with the turbo build.
#28
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yeah, im still wrestling the idea of getting a small intercooler thet fits without cutting or loosing the foglights or just doing the 31" intercooler and not have to worry or or fight with the smaller intercooler with tuneing.
#29
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Before Injection (or with it off), IATs were like 125. When it kicks in, IAT drops to 85 degrees. 40 degree drop in temp. AND you can feel it!
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Do both! Do it right. Do it safely.
#30
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I still favor the rear mount over the front for many reasons
For the streets spatially with the new oil-less turbo.
1- will retain A/C
2- no need for a K-member
3- more effective charge cooling
4- batter weight ratio (front/back)
5- install/uninstall with ease
with oil-less
6- no oil pump’s and lines
7- spools almost the same .
#31
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still waiting on parts to ship in and i still gotta pick my car up form dallas. clocked my turbo and pre fabed the oil fitttings to see how they will run when i get it on the car.
#32
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Got the .81 AR housing installed today. What a difference. Between wrapping the exhaust and this housing, the car feels totally different. Spools up so much faster now. Running the On3 76mm Ball Bearing Turbo, .81 AR housing is just about the perfect size for faster spooling and no cut on top end performance.
.96 is going to stay on the shelf for a while.
<----- Happy!!!
.96 is going to stay on the shelf for a while.
<----- Happy!!!
#33
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Have been haunted with boost leaks. I think I have it down now. Wasn't getting full boost until late in 2nd gear. (3.23 gears). Haven't had a full out run since I patched the boost leaks.
#34
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Boost leaks suck! Lol . I'm running a 4speed auto with either a 2400 or 3000 stalll with 3.42s also. Was hoping to get full boost just before 3000. I've read running 1 3/4 cold side helps spool, anyone try that?
#36
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silicone couplers with smooth tubes are prine to leak.
Roll beads into the ends of tubes, or weld beads. I bought and use a bead roller for all the cold side. Use good tbolt clamps.
Im gonna b building a single with a tc78 here soon.
stock ls2 with tc78, 38mm wg, hks bov, exapump or mocal pump.
For fmic gonna try to fit 2 mr2 intercoolers in each fender.
Goin in a 06 c6.
Roll beads into the ends of tubes, or weld beads. I bought and use a bead roller for all the cold side. Use good tbolt clamps.
Im gonna b building a single with a tc78 here soon.
stock ls2 with tc78, 38mm wg, hks bov, exapump or mocal pump.
For fmic gonna try to fit 2 mr2 intercoolers in each fender.
Goin in a 06 c6.
#37
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In my case it was a little shoddy workmanship from previous builder. Had 2 welds crack on me (they ground them down smooth after joining to make them look pretty). Pipe was paper thin and cracked under near where the K-member is. Also had 3 welds that were not complete. Pinholes that were leaking air that you cant see until you pressure test the system and hear it escaping. I've since sealed them with JB Weld. You'd think they would have checked that BEFORE sending out for powdercoating. Just keep a close eye on any place that has a joint, essentially.
Oh, for a pressure tester, Here's what I did. I went to Home Depot, bought a 2.5 inch PVC Schedule 40 Cap. (my charge pipe is 2.5 inch) (like this one from Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MUE...3597-_-Generic )
![](http://i.s.shopwiki.com/i/data/120x120/16/4/2/aHR0cDovL3Byb2R1Y3RpbWFnZXMuZ3JhaW5nZXIuY29tL2lzL2ltYWdlL0dyYWluZ2VyLzVXUFc0X0FTMDE@JHByb2R1Y3RkZXRhaWwk==.jpg)
and drilled a hole in it and screwed in an air tool quick connect fitting (like one of the 3 on the right of this: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-68192.html )
![](http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/160x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13967.jpg)
Don't forget to wrap with teflon pipe tape to seal.
Disconnect the turbo from the charge pipe, attach the pressure testor to the charge pipe using a silicone connector.
Then turn your air compressor regulator to about 10 psi and connect your hose to the quick connect. You will then hear your system pressurize from rear to TB. If you have a Methanol Injection setup, turn the start PSI to something higher than 10 PSI so that it doesn't kick in when under pressure. Then walk the line and listen for leaks. You can also blow cigarette smoke along the joints to see if any air escapes.
Oh, for a pressure tester, Here's what I did. I went to Home Depot, bought a 2.5 inch PVC Schedule 40 Cap. (my charge pipe is 2.5 inch) (like this one from Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MUE...3597-_-Generic )
![](http://i.s.shopwiki.com/i/data/120x120/16/4/2/aHR0cDovL3Byb2R1Y3RpbWFnZXMuZ3JhaW5nZXIuY29tL2lzL2ltYWdlL0dyYWluZ2VyLzVXUFc0X0FTMDE@JHByb2R1Y3RkZXRhaWwk==.jpg)
and drilled a hole in it and screwed in an air tool quick connect fitting (like one of the 3 on the right of this: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-68192.html )
![](http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/160x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_13967.jpg)
Don't forget to wrap with teflon pipe tape to seal.
Disconnect the turbo from the charge pipe, attach the pressure testor to the charge pipe using a silicone connector.
Then turn your air compressor regulator to about 10 psi and connect your hose to the quick connect. You will then hear your system pressurize from rear to TB. If you have a Methanol Injection setup, turn the start PSI to something higher than 10 PSI so that it doesn't kick in when under pressure. Then walk the line and listen for leaks. You can also blow cigarette smoke along the joints to see if any air escapes.
#39
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Yeah, I saw some posts already. It's an "entry level" turbo. Mine's been holding up pretty good so far. From the threads I've read, it looks like the owner is working with customers to address any issues. We gotta keep in mind, they're not $1500 turbos. Profit margin is probably super thin, which is why they only get a 30 day warranty vs. 1 year or more. I knew that going in. Performance wise, mine's held up fine for the past 6 months. If it goes out on me in the next year, I can still get 2 more for the price of one of the more expensive units. Happy with it so far.
#40
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Yeah, I saw some posts already. It's an "entry level" turbo. Mine's been holding up pretty good so far. From the threads I've read, it looks like the owner is working with customers to address any issues. We gotta keep in mind, they're not $1500 turbos. Profit margin is probably super thin, which is why they only get a 30 day warranty vs. 1 year or more. I knew that going in. Performance wise, mine's held up fine for the past 6 months. If it goes out on me in the next year, I can still get 2 more for the price of one of the more expensive units. Happy with it so far.
Well put! most of the reviews I read were good. The biggest complaint was the fitment of the kits. I'm building my own so No big deal. Not all of us have to have the biggest name brands, don't get me wrong I'd take a 1500 Turbo over a on3 but the price gets me playing sooner vs waiting to buy that big name Turbo.