Lets talk faster spool
If you want to get fancy - I've never done it, but I don't see why it couldn't work. Sorta the inverse of a nitrous timing system.
Use a WOT switch (NOS sells them) to activate a relay in parallel to your IAT sensor circuit. Size the resistor to dump the IAT signal to the far left of your IAT table (the coldest). Adjust this far left column to pull an obscene amount of timing.
Next, use a Hobs switch wired in series with the IAT relay to disable the relay above a certain boost pressure (say 2 psi or so).
This system (if it works) would kick your timing down 10-20 degrees when you smash the gas and add a bunch of fuel (because the computer thinks it is cold) and as soon as the boost comes in and activates the Hobs switch, ramp your timing back to normal settings.
It also wouldn't be affected by around town driving because it would only activate when you push your foot to the floor and activate the WOT switch.
Just thinking outloud here....
Watch the first part of this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rw2RPMJ9xVw
Check for any leaks, hot side and cold side. Wrap the pipes and install a turbo blanket if you do not have this already done. If you want to run 11lbs of boost install a 6lb wastegate spring and use a manual boost controller to raise your boost. This alone will increase spool more than anything. As the wastegate cracks at about half the boost it's rated at. Be aware that rich conditions and lack of timing create a ton of heat and is very hard on your turbo.
Check for any leaks, hot side and cold side. Wrap the pipes and install a turbo blanket if you do not have this already done. If you want to run 11lbs of boost install a 6lb wastegate spring and use a manual boost controller to raise your boost. This alone will increase spool more than anything. As the wastegate cracks at about half the boost it's rated at. Be aware that rich conditions and lack of timing create a ton of heat and is very hard on your turbo.
thats good to know that would be the end result.ill have to look at my logs,i belive im going in to be at 110 kpa.im gonna look into setting up a 2 step thru the idle timing table tonight thanks for the heads up. even though im running a ten bolt it still may come in handy the way i launch the car at the track.
checked the hot side last week all is good so far no leaks yet.i do need o run a pressure test one of these days.exhaust is all wrapped only thing i dont have is a blanket. idk if its really worth while on a rear mount but probly is,they are cheap enough tho.i currently already have a mbc in the car, i plan on eventually running up to 18psi.i had it turned up at one point on a differnt timing table and it deffinitly did spool alot faster, but i started blowing spark out around 14psi on tr6s gapped at .028.it even blew spark out at 6psi at times.not worried about the heat on the turbo currently due to running a on3 t76.at some point i may upgrade to a bw s475 but at the same token i may build a front mount that keeps ac and simaler to the ptk kit using manifolds
thanks
BTW put those BR7's in there.
I see you finally found the thread Jason
Your advice is always appreciated on the M6 matters. I know you have tried this stuff before. maybe just to show what we did differently you could post a screen shot of your old timing table and the new one.
Just to give others an idea.
Again I wouldn't pull any timing till around 115-120kpa. Your timing is very very conservative as is if you happen to get KR on tip in then of course pull the amount out that the KR is pulling out. I am 95% certain you won't though.
Your stuck with 91 octane like Nitroused though aren't you? If you haven't thought about it, a methanol injection kit is the best thing you can do for a boosted car on pump gas.
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Just to give others an idea.
Again I wouldn't pull any timing till around 115-120kpa. Your timing is very very conservative as is if you happen to get KR on tip in then of course pull the amount out that the KR is pulling out. I am 95% certain you won't though.
Your stuck with 91 octane like Nitroused though aren't you? If you haven't thought about it, a methanol injection kit is the best thing you can do for a boosted car on pump gas.
I guess this is why N2O is SOOO effective. Its an instant hit as soon as you go WOT!
Just to give others an idea.
Again I wouldn't pull any timing till around 115-120kpa. Your timing is very very conservative as is if you happen to get KR on tip in then of course pull the amount out that the KR is pulling out. I am 95% certain you won't though.
Your stuck with 91 octane like Nitroused though aren't you? If you haven't thought about it, a methanol injection kit is the best thing you can do for a boosted car on pump gas.
I think you are going to be really surprised when you put that timing table in it how much it wakes up.
I have 24* timing in your car until 3200 and at 3600 I backed it down to 13.0 from 3600-4400 and at 4800 IIRC you're at 13.5. If your car makes a good bit of boost (more than 3-4psi) @3200rpm we can back the timing retard start from 3200 to 2800.
It should really really help. If it's too much let me know and I can back the timing ramp down a few degrees in the spool regions. I think you will really like it though

Also injecting methanol before you get into boost wouldn't make the car run very well.
Anyone that has a methanol kit I'm sure as I have done on accident playing with your onset point the methanol begins to spray, setting it too early and it beginning to spray at 1psi or before it just sputters and doesn't want to run until it get's some boost going.
Yes you could pull fuel and do all that stuff, but I have seen just as good results with doing it this way. Most don't start to inject methanol until at least 3-4psi with most not starting until 5-6psi and then ramping it in to full at or near there max boost psi setting.
I would look into it at least stangtrader. It's a good safe guard. There is a very easy way to keep your tune safe running methanol injection.
The methanol injection helps the IAT's cool so much that there will be a big difference in the IAT's if it were not to work. Like you are doing now you can pull a bunch of timing out at a set F* in the IAT table so if it didn't work you don't nuke your motor.
It's 3.50-4.00 a gallon for M1 almost anywhere in the U.S. which is the same price as gasoline. I used a 85/15 to 80/20 mixture of water and methanol in my old turbo car. I found that the 15-20% of water in the mixture kept the IAT's down just as much as 50/50 and with 80% methanol instead of 50% I was getting more octane out of it that way also.
If you do start mixing things in with your methanol like water, you have to be 100% consistent on the amount you mix each time because even though methanol richens up the tune a good bit, water leans it out. So if you don't mix the same ratio's each time it doesn't work out the same. This is why most of the time I tell people just to run straight 100% M1.
Only reason I did it the way I did is because I was experimenting with getting every little last bit of power out of my car.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; May 25, 2012 at 02:25 PM.
thanks joe
original table


modified table thanks to fbodyjunkie

Last edited by stangtrader; May 26, 2012 at 04:02 PM.
With a stick you have no load on the turbo so you have to creat heat. Heat spools the turbine.
In an auto we use lean afr and lots of timing to initially spool the turbo and then retarding timing on the transbrake to take the combustion out of the chamber and into the exhaust piping pre turbine. Closer the bang is to the turbine the faster and harder it spools. By running negative timing and rich afr on a m6 you are effectively doing the same thing as the auto spool up routine minus the footbrake part. With the auto when you go from footbrake to transbrake, and you retard it on the transbrake it moves the bang out of the chamber. Same thing with rich afr and negative timing on a m6, it moves the combustion out of the cylinder and makes the headers/crossover so hot that it lights off the fuel and it bangs in there.
I agree with you 100% about using timing and lean afr's....with an auto
It doesn't work the same with a stick though. I think you have a table in your tune that is pulling timing out, because it is global across the board from .088 down to 1.0. It's really weird unless you just didn't copy and paste the last digits from those cells on down.
Hey heath,yeah the few times its seen rain its been fine untill I was headed out i90 towards hwy18 when we had a pretty good downpour.I should build one. I just hate working on the car at home. I'll probly build one next week for those just in case instances.
It should be a mirror image of your table cells.

