As we speak my truck (listed in sig) is getting body work done, and painted. At that point the truck will be how I want it appearance wise, so the next step is the drivetrain.

I want to pull the 350/700R4/208 in favor of a LSx drivetrain, but I don't want to do the simple 6.0/4L80e dropout swap. I talked it over with a few buddies, and I really want to throw a turbo kit into the mix. Ive been wanting to do a turbo build for the last year, but I only know the basics when it comes to turbo's and I feel the truck would be a great way to get my hands dirty with some boost. My truck's engine bay has a ridiculous amount of room, and I can afford for it to be down for a few months. My TA on the other hand is my daily driver.



The goal is very modest boost on a stock bottom end 6.0. Say 4-5lbs low boost 7-8lbs high boost. Don't really have a HP goal in mind really. I have been doing as much reading and researching as I can, but this build is pretty different than any I have came across. The truck has 37" tires (Next set will be 40"s), and I do haul with it and will occasionally tow with it. It currently has 4.10 gears, and I didn't plan on going deeper until I swap a 1 ton front differential in but maybe the 4.10s are good for a turbo motor?

Now my questions:

I do haul/tow. What would be a safe stall speed to run?

Are the 4.10s good for a turbo motor?

What size/brand turbo? I've been told a MP70 wouldn't be a bad choice, and will spool fast.

I can get ahold of LS2 GTO factory manifolds off a buddy. Will those work just as well as truck manifolds?

Keep factory cam, or upgrade? If upgrade, what kind of specs for a turbo build with 37" tires and towing/hauling in mind?

I'd like to run A/C. Do I have wishful thinking?



I have other questions, but those are the main ones for now.

 

Anybody?

 

Post on www.performancetrucks.net and you will get a ton of replies. There is a link at the top of the page.

 

With an enormous engine bay you just have to be creative how you make the hot side for the turbo to keep a/c. Whatever manifolds you have laying around should work. If you need different ones they are cheap used.

Since you are towing and want to only make modest power leave the gearing alone. 4.10's with 37" tires brings the overall ratio to a taller overall number (ie 3.08) which is good as it will load the engine and turbos like engine load. The factory stall convertor in a 4L80E is crazy heavy (60lbs+). If you can afford it.... get something lighter/better.

Put in a small cam. Used ones work too. 114+ LSA if possible. Split duration cams work too, but most run same duration intake/exhaust. under 230 duration if you want it to drive/idle well and make power down low. Stock '03+ Z06 cams work great too with killer idle.

Try to get a 2005+ engine as they have the LS2 style rods which are stronger.

 

I will register there, and see what kind of info I get. Thank you

Okay so leave the 4.10s for now, and when I upgrade to 40" tires regear to 4.56s or a tad steeper? That works.

I don't mind upgrading the stall while doing the swap/build. What size stall would be best? I know towing applications you shouldn't run a high stall, and turbo's like smaller stalls anyway.

Is a MP70 good for my goals?

If I do upgrade the cam I don't want/need a big one. I have heard many people run the Z06 cam for turbo applications. **** my TA only has a 224/230 cam in it haha.

 

Personally, I would not tow with a gas/turbo vehicle and stock pistons. It will spool great, but I wouldn't even want to think about the heat vs stock pistons on a setup like that.

 

Looks like a perfect candidate for a cummins 12v swap! Perfect for towing, gas mileage and power. Not to mention the fact that its already turbo'd.

 

I've never towed with it yet. I figured at some point down the road I will need it to tow my car if I travel to a better track. I do haul a good amount of scrap tho. Turning boost down to 4ish pounds wouldn't help anything? If its just the pistons that will be stressed I'd upgrade them.

Nothing is set in stone yet. Just throwing ideas around for now. The truck is currently getting painted and I haven't picked up an LS motor yet.

Yes I have thought about a 12V Cummins swap. Problem is those swaps are getting very popular (for good reason) and I wanted to go a different route. That and I don't know much about building/maintaining diesels, but I do know enough about lsx motors so it's more of my comfort zone.

 

See if Kurt Urban from Urban Performance will talk to you. He already does similar to what you want on his personal truck. I think his screen name is 427.

He runs a T72 on a 6.0 and tows his race trailer with it.

 

I would go with a 78mm w/ .96 ar. 7 psi is very low boost for a turbo setup. You'll likely have a hard time getting it lower than that.

With regards to the converter, get a good one and talk to the guy. My personal choice is Greg @ FTI. I know for a fact that he has experience with turbo trucks that do everything from mud bogs to sled pull. I would think that the main thing for towing would be that it lock up.

 

I will try to contact him. Is his truck lifted like mine?

Yes I was told to go with a .96 AR no matter what turbo I chose. I would be happy with 7ish lbs for sure. Like I said I'm looking for very modest power. My buddy just threw a 75mm on his 6.0 El Camino with a 4L80 & 9in and made close to 600whp @ 8lbs. I don't need nearly that much power haha.

I agree on the converter. As long as it locks up, and I run a good tranny cooler with a temp gauge towing should be fine. I will get in contact with him to get his opinion.

 

I love that truck by the way. Sort of on topic question- What do you plan on doing with the intake? I've always wondered what the turbo guys do that use their trucks for bogging. I want to fab a snorkel for my duramax.

 

I have the 6.0 that is used for pulling my trailer (24ft enclosed) with a small turbo. I use a 72mm t4 based turbo, it will make 3psi around 2000 rpm, that helps when towing.
It is not lifted, I actually lowered it.
3.73 gears in mine with 20 inch factory wheel/tire for SS Silverado.
Factory AC is still on and working.
I added additional radiator where the spare tire was, water gets directed to it above 170F. It would overheat the water towing.
I keep my boost topped out at 9 when towing.
I run premium fuel.
I ran the first 40,000 miles with a 67mm turbo, it worked well. The next 100,000 has been the 72mm. It ran 11.70 with the 67mm, 11.40 with the 72mm.
I use a TCI converter that is a little tight for racing use, but it tows/drives well.

Kurt

 

I'm not exactly sure what they do. I've never entered my truck in a bogging contest. I mainly use it for hauling, winter driving, and fun in the woods.

That gives me a lot of good info. Now for my questions!

For my application should I use a smaller turbo like a 67-72mm or a larger turbo like a 74-76mm?

You're running 3.73 gears with 32" tires, so I should be in the 4.56-4.88 range for my 37" tires? That is something I would probably hold off doing until I find a Dana 60 1 ton front differential.

You added additional cooling in the rear, now with my truck I could run a big block radiator if needed.

Are you running a large trans cooler to help with the heat when towing?

What manifold setup are you running that you were able to keep the A/C? Also what size piping for the hot side/cold side, down pipe, etc? I've heard to run as large as you can possibly fit?

What size stall are you running? I won't be taking this to the track. Just street driving, towing, and some highway pulls here and there.

 

I use the smaller turbo so I can make boost with the converter locked while towing.
If you tow fast the BB radiator will not be big enough as the engine will produce more power than the BB. I have run my truck 75mph on a 7 mile 5% grade with the cruise set with the trailer at 10,000 pounds. I have also ran up the mountain at full throttle reaching 95mph with the trailer loaded, this builds more heat than the factory BB could ever make.
I have the largest B&M bar and plate cooler. It stays very cool except in traffic jams where I have seen 230-250 for short bursts.
I use the stock truck manifolds flipped upside down, it clears all the truck accy drive. My crossover is 2.25 and the down pipe is 3.0.
I use a full size TCI converter for the best clutch holding ability. It will go about 2600rpm on the footbrake. When I ran the 11's it had a converter that would go 3500rpm. That one towed awful.


Kurt

 

I agree 100% with the diesel idea. I have a 06 LBZ dually and she's amazing at everything. I couldn't imagine trying to lift a gas truck 8" on big *** tires and then try to tow with it while having a gasser. A diesel could care less about all of that weight lol The more the mirier.

Good luck bro

 

For something with low end grunt, the 67mm would be a better fit. The trucks we have spec'ed in the past for towing, most worked best with 64-67mm units with a larger turbine side to keep BP in check somewhat.

 

Turbo gas trucks have always interested me. Theyre cheap as hell and in the case of Chevys, come with very nice engines stock. My question is, with a turbo gas truck when towing, do yall think its best to size the turbo so it makes boost no matter what or size it so you can tow something out of boost and then mash the peddle a bit more for some boost when you need it? - for best mpg...

 

[QUOTE=Stippy17;16370336]I will register there, and see what kind of info I get. Thank you



You are registered on pt.net already. Use the same name and password you use here.

Lot of guys on pt.net have experience towing with turbos and can point you in the right direction.