whats the best thing to add to a WtA intercooler to keep it cold??
#1
whats the best thing to add to a WtA intercooler to keep it cold??
i have two water to air intercoolers and i have been looking around for what people are adding to the system to make it cold enough.. i only have two intercoolers and a ice box with bosch pump.
1st. just plain water and ice.
2nd. dry ice and alcohol.
3rd. gel.
4th. water and ice with salt.
5th. heat exchanger.
any more and what would be the best to do for a street car?? i like the WtA and i dont see any twin turbo AtA intercoolers that will work for what i have and hp.
another thing is how good does e85 work by it self to cool the intake temp down??
1st. just plain water and ice.
2nd. dry ice and alcohol.
3rd. gel.
4th. water and ice with salt.
5th. heat exchanger.
any more and what would be the best to do for a street car?? i like the WtA and i dont see any twin turbo AtA intercoolers that will work for what i have and hp.
another thing is how good does e85 work by it self to cool the intake temp down??
#2
Straight up ice cubes.
No water, no nothing else but ice cubes in the ice box. Do this about 5-10 minutes before you drive to the lanes to run the car.
By the time you get to the line it will be half melted or more and it will be nice and cold. When you get done with the run there might be a few ice cubes left(10-20 out of 100 or more) and a lot of 60-65* water. Drain it out and refill with ice cubes before another run.
No water, no nothing else but ice cubes in the ice box. Do this about 5-10 minutes before you drive to the lanes to run the car.
By the time you get to the line it will be half melted or more and it will be nice and cold. When you get done with the run there might be a few ice cubes left(10-20 out of 100 or more) and a lot of 60-65* water. Drain it out and refill with ice cubes before another run.
#3
what about for a street car? and im getting my car tuned with e85 and my WtA intercoolers?? can i ditch the intercoolers because im running e85. i have been reading places that the air temp can get as hot as 180 to 220 but the cumbustion chambers with e85 is much lower due to the e85???
#5
what about for a street car? and im getting my car tuned with e85 and my WtA intercoolers?? can i ditch the intercoolers because im running e85. i have been reading places that the air temp can get as hot as 180 to 220 but the cumbustion chambers with e85 is much lower due to the e85???
Trending Topics
#8
I have a 5 gallon custom tank from Don at "dads tanks" I plan on putting as much ice that will fit and a little water to make sure there is enough water to flow through all the lines and intercooler.
#9
what about for a street car? and im getting my car tuned with e85 and my WtA intercoolers?? can i ditch the intercoolers because im running e85. i have been reading places that the air temp can get as hot as 180 to 220 but the cumbustion chambers with e85 is much lower due to the e85???
#10
For the ultimate in cooling it HAS to be dry ice! see the link below for more info. Im not saying this is for everyone, but its pretty f*cking impressive stuff!
http://www.are.com.au/Big%20HP/Dry%2...%20cooling.htm
http://www.are.com.au/Big%20HP/Dry%2...%20cooling.htm
#11
Straight up ice cubes.
No water, no nothing else but ice cubes in the ice box. Do this about 5-10 minutes before you drive to the lanes to run the car.
By the time you get to the line it will be half melted or more and it will be nice and cold. When you get done with the run there might be a few ice cubes left(10-20 out of 100 or more) and a lot of 60-65* water. Drain it out and refill with ice cubes before another run.
No water, no nothing else but ice cubes in the ice box. Do this about 5-10 minutes before you drive to the lanes to run the car.
By the time you get to the line it will be half melted or more and it will be nice and cold. When you get done with the run there might be a few ice cubes left(10-20 out of 100 or more) and a lot of 60-65* water. Drain it out and refill with ice cubes before another run.
You need some water to circulate through the system. Also, not having water in the pickup are could potentially allow ice to get to the pump you are using to pump the water and damage it.
Every system is different, and there's lots of "voodoo" on what size ice, shape, and when to load it.
We prefer cubed ice and leave a little water in the tank. we also build a screen in front of the inlet from the pump in the water tank to prevent ice getting to it. In addition, I like to fill it about 85% full, then in the lanes when they call us to belt up, we throw in the last 15% to get a nice fresh set of ice on it(we keep the ice in a small ice box on the cart). We really only have to do this in the lanes on HOT days. If it's cold, just leave some water in the tank, and throw in the ice. If you want a slower heat soak of the ice and slow down how fast it melts, use larger cubes of ice (like cutting a 1/2 gallon milk jug in half, filling/freezing, and throwing in these big blocks into the tank). Obviously, it's not as good at extreme low temps, but it does last longer if you are having that problem.
#12
run ice water, if your temps are still not 'cold enough' then you have bought the wrong intercooler(s)
dunno where your tank is but if its in the engine bay and or metal, you will struggle with conducting heat to the water inside.
dunno where your tank is but if its in the engine bay and or metal, you will struggle with conducting heat to the water inside.
#13
that is incorrect and dangerous.
You need some water to circulate through the system. Also, not having water in the pickup are could potentially allow ice to get to the pump you are using to pump the water and damage it.
Every system is different, and there's lots of "voodoo" on what size ice, shape, and when to load it.
We prefer cubed ice and leave a little water in the tank. we also build a screen in front of the inlet from the pump in the water tank to prevent ice getting to it. In addition, I like to fill it about 85% full, then in the lanes when they call us to belt up, we throw in the last 15% to get a nice fresh set of ice on it(we keep the ice in a small ice box on the cart). We really only have to do this in the lanes on HOT days. If it's cold, just leave some water in the tank, and throw in the ice. If you want a slower heat soak of the ice and slow down how fast it melts, use larger cubes of ice (like cutting a 1/2 gallon milk jug in half, filling/freezing, and throwing in these big blocks into the tank). Obviously, it's not as good at extreme low temps, but it does last longer if you are having that problem.
You need some water to circulate through the system. Also, not having water in the pickup are could potentially allow ice to get to the pump you are using to pump the water and damage it.
Every system is different, and there's lots of "voodoo" on what size ice, shape, and when to load it.
We prefer cubed ice and leave a little water in the tank. we also build a screen in front of the inlet from the pump in the water tank to prevent ice getting to it. In addition, I like to fill it about 85% full, then in the lanes when they call us to belt up, we throw in the last 15% to get a nice fresh set of ice on it(we keep the ice in a small ice box on the cart). We really only have to do this in the lanes on HOT days. If it's cold, just leave some water in the tank, and throw in the ice. If you want a slower heat soak of the ice and slow down how fast it melts, use larger cubes of ice (like cutting a 1/2 gallon milk jug in half, filling/freezing, and throwing in these big blocks into the tank). Obviously, it's not as good at extreme low temps, but it does last longer if you are having that problem.
Most of the time you sit for another 10 minutes at least. In 85*-90* weather it's going to have plenty of time to melt.
I'm just saying what I see done all the time. Yes when you load the intercooler with ice there is going to be some water in the ice chest. This goes in the tank also. End up with about 85% ice and 15% water as you said when initially loaded. I didn't mean you want straight ice cubes during the run obviously there wouldn't be any water for the pump to circulate.
If you do it the way I said by the time you go to make your pass there will be plenty of water in the tank.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; 06-01-2012 at 12:39 AM.
#14
Im collecting parts for my ta tc78 a2w build.
Im thinking of using a cool fuel can inline for water circulation lines. purpose.is to drop dry ice pellets in the can. Dry ice will not come into contact with water. It woill cool the coiled line inside the can externally. The can will need to be shielded and insulated from heat and also located in a remote cool area. I think it will drop the temps some.
Also dry ice does not melt like real ice. I seen it lasts up to 3 days in an appropriate container. Got the idea from the.local ice cream vendors cart. Buying ice.pops for my nephews.
Also i know the dry ice will melt/vaporize alot quicker than in a a2w setup, than a ice cream container/freezer. Just a thought. The dry ice run may last longer than real ice if everything is adequate.
Combined with an a ice tank, i think it will plummet the temps even lower. And yield remarkable gains. Even more so if spraying meth. Literally ice cold iat's.
Im thinking of using a cool fuel can inline for water circulation lines. purpose.is to drop dry ice pellets in the can. Dry ice will not come into contact with water. It woill cool the coiled line inside the can externally. The can will need to be shielded and insulated from heat and also located in a remote cool area. I think it will drop the temps some.
Also dry ice does not melt like real ice. I seen it lasts up to 3 days in an appropriate container. Got the idea from the.local ice cream vendors cart. Buying ice.pops for my nephews.
Also i know the dry ice will melt/vaporize alot quicker than in a a2w setup, than a ice cream container/freezer. Just a thought. The dry ice run may last longer than real ice if everything is adequate.
Combined with an a ice tank, i think it will plummet the temps even lower. And yield remarkable gains. Even more so if spraying meth. Literally ice cold iat's.
#17
that is incorrect and dangerous.
You need some water to circulate through the system. Also, not having water in the pickup are could potentially allow ice to get to the pump you are using to pump the water and damage it.
Every system is different, and there's lots of "voodoo" on what size ice, shape, and when to load it.
We prefer cubed ice and leave a little water in the tank. we also build a screen in front of the inlet from the pump in the water tank to prevent ice getting to it. In addition, I like to fill it about 85% full, then in the lanes when they call us to belt up, we throw in the last 15% to get a nice fresh set of ice on it(we keep the ice in a small ice box on the cart). We really only have to do this in the lanes on HOT days. If it's cold, just leave some water in the tank, and throw in the ice. If you want a slower heat soak of the ice and slow down how fast it melts, use larger cubes of ice (like cutting a 1/2 gallon milk jug in half, filling/freezing, and throwing in these big blocks into the tank). Obviously, it's not as good at extreme low temps, but it does last longer if you are having that problem.
You need some water to circulate through the system. Also, not having water in the pickup are could potentially allow ice to get to the pump you are using to pump the water and damage it.
Every system is different, and there's lots of "voodoo" on what size ice, shape, and when to load it.
We prefer cubed ice and leave a little water in the tank. we also build a screen in front of the inlet from the pump in the water tank to prevent ice getting to it. In addition, I like to fill it about 85% full, then in the lanes when they call us to belt up, we throw in the last 15% to get a nice fresh set of ice on it(we keep the ice in a small ice box on the cart). We really only have to do this in the lanes on HOT days. If it's cold, just leave some water in the tank, and throw in the ice. If you want a slower heat soak of the ice and slow down how fast it melts, use larger cubes of ice (like cutting a 1/2 gallon milk jug in half, filling/freezing, and throwing in these big blocks into the tank). Obviously, it's not as good at extreme low temps, but it does last longer if you are having that problem.
#18
PLEASE tell me you guys thinking about dry ice are gonna use an airtight tank with a good sized exterior vent! On top of displacing breathing air when it sublimates, it can build pressure quick too. Makes excellent pop bottle bombs for example (not that I'd have ever done that).
#19
mighty mouse im running two cx racing intercoolers in the nose and a metal icebox in the hatch with a built in screen for the ice. im putting in a heat exchanger to see the diffrence so i can drive it one the street.
what is a safe ait temp with e85 i know the lower the better but what is safe.
and when i said the temp has got to 180 it was with no ice just water and about 30 to 45 min tunning it then adding ice to cool it. i have to go back wed for my final tune. we ran out of time last time.
but tpis told me to bring a **** ton of ice so im bringing probley 100 to 150lb of ice in 3 or 4 coolers ( just to make sure i dont run out)
my question was for street driving. not drag strips. the ice does cool it but only for a short period.
what is a safe ait temp with e85 i know the lower the better but what is safe.
and when i said the temp has got to 180 it was with no ice just water and about 30 to 45 min tunning it then adding ice to cool it. i have to go back wed for my final tune. we ran out of time last time.
but tpis told me to bring a **** ton of ice so im bringing probley 100 to 150lb of ice in 3 or 4 coolers ( just to make sure i dont run out)
my question was for street driving. not drag strips. the ice does cool it but only for a short period.
#20
all the heat exchanger will do is melt your ice.
here is what you do:
when the water gets hot, drain it out and put more free cold water back in.
when i am street driving i dont even run the water pump, i dont need the iat to be cool when just cruising, and running the pump would only heat the water up as it takes it to the engine bay and back.
i can drive 30 minutes to the track, and the water in the tank is still cool to the touch from sitting in the garage prior to the trip, and can make a pass immediately.
here is what you do:
when the water gets hot, drain it out and put more free cold water back in.
when i am street driving i dont even run the water pump, i dont need the iat to be cool when just cruising, and running the pump would only heat the water up as it takes it to the engine bay and back.
i can drive 30 minutes to the track, and the water in the tank is still cool to the touch from sitting in the garage prior to the trip, and can make a pass immediately.