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Procharger & BR7EF Gap

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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Default Procharger & BR7EF Gap

I know that typically the tr6's are used, but id like to go ahead and go one more step colder. i can find all kinds of info on gap for those but not the 7's. if you could give me a few suggestions let me know. mods in sig.
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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Ive got .035 on my 408 YSI running well
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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My gap is .025 maxed out D1sc
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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i think out of the box they are 25 30

and i just leave them there, because by the time you need that plug you need that gap too lol
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 02:16 AM
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I ran mine at .030" and was having some issues....I re-gapped mine to .026" and all was well.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 06:18 AM
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Mine out of the box were 0.025-0.026 and I left them there.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Mine out of the box were 0.025-0.026 and I left them there.
awesome alchemist. that was my next question. i was like what in the hell are they coming out of the box as. ill still be sure and check them of course, but I think my skimping days are over now that I have signed on to the FI projects.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:24 AM
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just an interesting lil side note....all of them did indeed come out of the box just as the alchemist said ( 0.025- 0.026) except for one which was at .042.

I used a feeler gauge and set them all to .026. id always used a coin style, but i left it to where it would go in, but it was a tight fit, and a small amount of "hold" was still present. if that sounds wrong. let me know. other wise these are going to be put up , safe from the cats.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by I8UR4RD
just an interesting lil side note....all of them did indeed come out of the box just as the alchemist said ( 0.025- 0.026) except for one which was at .042.

I used a feeler gauge and set them all to .026. id always used a coin style, but i left it to where it would go in, but it was a tight fit, and a small amount of "hold" was still present. if that sounds wrong. let me know. other wise these are going to be put up , safe from the cats.
Interesting. I just installed mine last night and only checked maybe 3 or 4 of them and all were .025... I might need to pull them out and re-check.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidPHumes
Interesting. I just installed mine last night and only checked maybe 3 or 4 of them and all were .025... I might need to pull them out and re-check.
most def man. it aint worth it.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:51 PM
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At what point would it benefit going to these from the TR6's? Would the BR7EF help prevent detonation more so than the TR6?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6 SRT-8
At what point would it benefit going to these from the TR6's? Would the BR7EF help prevent detonation more so than the TR6?
i can share my experience,

my 4.8 turbo car running pump+meth

22lbs of boost, 125shot, 15deg timing broke a piston, only #7 to be exact, so it must have been just on the edge of the heat range.

ive since put br7ef's in and hit it just as hard with no problems.

the turbo truck me and my friend built makes 605rwhp on 17psi (locked 80e)
runs tr6 plugs, at 20lbs pump+meth and 16deg timing... on the track and goes 10.80@ 127 @4700lbs

and has never broken a piston or had spark issue with the tr6.

so ide say somewhere right passed that with the nitrous and **** i have in there was too much lol
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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.028 in my LS6 383 / D1 setup.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 12:41 AM
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Always run a non projected tip with ANY amount of boost or nitrous.

A TR6 is not a non projected tip plug.

NGK part number 3346 or 1049 is what I normally recommend for street cars on less than 20psi of boost.

Non projected tip plug keeps the porcelain from protruding so far into the chamber and keeps it from acting like a glow plug and also the colder heat range lowers tip temperature 140 degrees each cooler range you go. That's a big difference in temp. and could mean the difference in your stock bottom end or forged bottom end from imploding.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
Always run a non projected tip with ANY amount of boost or nitrous.

A TR6 is not a non projected tip plug.

NGK part number 3346 or 1049 is what I normally recommend for street cars on less than 20psi of boost.

Non projected tip plug keeps the porcelain from protruding so far into the chamber and keeps it from acting like a glow plug and also the colder heat range lowers tip temperature 140 degrees each cooler range you go. That's a big difference in temp. and could mean the difference in your stock bottom end or forged bottom end from imploding.

yeah 3346 is the # on my 7's. i figured why go 6 when you can afford to go a little colder with no fallbacks.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 05:59 PM
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I run a BR6 at .032 i will be switching over to the br7 during the next plug change.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 04BlackGmc
I run a BR6 at .032 i will be switching over to the br7 during the next plug change.
Better than having a projected tip, BR6 is better than a TR6, so you're on the right track.
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
Better than having a projected tip, BR6 is better than a TR6, so you're on the right track.
Yea i ran br7's when i was on bottle but when i switched to blower i started with br6's.
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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Get you some BR7's and you'll be fine.
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