why is everyone choosing a 5.3 over a 6.0 lq?
07-20-2012, 09:24 AM
#22
I went 6.0 and picked one up for $1000 with 103k miles on it. They were pricey around my area. I wish I would have just done a simple H/C/n2o setup though, lol. This build is nickle and dime'n me to death. Would have had a running car 3 months ago if I would have stuck with my guns. Oh well, should be worth it in the end.
07-20-2012, 09:47 AM
#24
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dont forget about the 4.8........ there are some straight nasty turbo 4.8's out there... in some instances i think its more of a macho thing saying you have a big motor.....getting punked by a turbo 4.8 would sting a little more than a turbo 6.0
07-20-2012, 10:45 AM
#29
Ic,piping,bov - 450
Bw turbo - 800
60mm- 600
Manifoldpiping - 300
Oil lines - 150
Injectors - 600
Fuel rail - 200
A1000 pump - 350
A1000 reg - 160
Fuel lines - 100 (have return already and fittings)
FAST intake/ TB 102mm - 1400
Motor - 500
Accesories - 500
Moroso pan - 400
Dual springs - 250
Ls9 cam - 250
Thats mine so far. I managed to get some stuff cheaper off forum and some areas i may spend tiny bit more. I also am putting inside nissan 300zx so need moroso pan and extra for mounts with accesories.
All welding on ic pipes and manifold is done by me so cheaper there and i didnt included downpipe and exhaust but my setup is pretty average from what ive seen and there is only so many things that can be spent less on.
Bw turbo - 800
60mm- 600
Manifoldpiping - 300
Oil lines - 150
Injectors - 600
Fuel rail - 200
A1000 pump - 350
A1000 reg - 160
Fuel lines - 100 (have return already and fittings)
FAST intake/ TB 102mm - 1400
Motor - 500
Accesories - 500
Moroso pan - 400
Dual springs - 250
Ls9 cam - 250
Thats mine so far. I managed to get some stuff cheaper off forum and some areas i may spend tiny bit more. I also am putting inside nissan 300zx so need moroso pan and extra for mounts with accesories.
All welding on ic pipes and manifold is done by me so cheaper there and i didnt included downpipe and exhaust but my setup is pretty average from what ive seen and there is only so many things that can be spent less on.
07-20-2012, 10:52 AM
#30
Holy crap just counted what i spent so far... with stock motor too. If my girlfriend ever seen this id be living along in court for child support lol. Its funny how you go from one setup to another cause one is cheaper in your mind then all the little things pop up and you always end up paying way more.
07-20-2012, 10:55 AM
#31
I'm doing mine on the cheap, friend is welding everything for me and so far:
ls6 intake $300
used billet rails $150
105lb/hr inj $450ish
truck manifolds w/hardware $75 (new)
piping and intercooler @$250ish
roll cage $249 (spohn)
and then all the crap to rebuild the motor @$1200 lol (arp studs, bearings, gaskets etc) next one I'm taking motor out of jy and just putting in car as is.
ebay t88 $465
jgs wategate and bov @400 or so
dual walbro 255's @150
misc fittings and -an stuff @$300 or so.
ls6 cam $75
ls6 springs $50 (used)
then paint oil, gas and rod for tig @600 or so.
it defintely ended up costing more then I originally wanted to spend.
ls6 intake $300
used billet rails $150
105lb/hr inj $450ish
truck manifolds w/hardware $75 (new)
piping and intercooler @$250ish
roll cage $249 (spohn)
and then all the crap to rebuild the motor @$1200 lol (arp studs, bearings, gaskets etc) next one I'm taking motor out of jy and just putting in car as is.
ebay t88 $465
jgs wategate and bov @400 or so
dual walbro 255's @150
misc fittings and -an stuff @$300 or so.
ls6 cam $75
ls6 springs $50 (used)
then paint oil, gas and rod for tig @600 or so.
it defintely ended up costing more then I originally wanted to spend.
07-20-2012, 11:45 AM
#32
5.3 has thicker cylinder walls and can be had in aluminum for about the same price as a 6.0. I just picked up an all aluminum 5.3 with wiring and computer for 1150, about the same price as any local 6.0s and this only has 66k miles. It weighs a lot less than the 6.0, should get better fuel economy, was same price if not cheaper, etc.
Something you have to realize is that a turbo is only capable of flowing so much air, so its not going to flow more air than its able being on a 6.0 rather than a 5.3. It will take more boost to do it, but one way or the other the turbo will be moving about the same amount of air when maxed out regardless of engine size.
A good example, a small 50 trim on an average small block will usually spike its boost up early in the rpm range and then taper off as it runs out of steam. Itll be able to make about 450-500the hp. the same turbo on a 4 cylinder will continue to build boost as RPM rises but once its maxed out, it should still be around 450-500 hp. There are factors such as surge limit and head flow that might cause a smaller engine to make less power with the same turbo, but the differences between the 5.3 and 6.0 should be almost minute.
Something you have to realize is that a turbo is only capable of flowing so much air, so its not going to flow more air than its able being on a 6.0 rather than a 5.3. It will take more boost to do it, but one way or the other the turbo will be moving about the same amount of air when maxed out regardless of engine size.
A good example, a small 50 trim on an average small block will usually spike its boost up early in the rpm range and then taper off as it runs out of steam. Itll be able to make about 450-500the hp. the same turbo on a 4 cylinder will continue to build boost as RPM rises but once its maxed out, it should still be around 450-500 hp. There are factors such as surge limit and head flow that might cause a smaller engine to make less power with the same turbo, but the differences between the 5.3 and 6.0 should be almost minute.
07-20-2012, 05:37 PM
#35
5.3 has thicker cylinder walls and can be had in aluminum for about the same price as a 6.0. I just picked up an all aluminum 5.3 with wiring and computer for 1150, about the same price as any local 6.0s and this only has 66k miles. It weighs a lot less than the 6.0, should get better fuel economy, was same price if not cheaper, etc.
Something you have to realize is that a turbo is only capable of flowing so much air, so its not going to flow more air than its able being on a 6.0 rather than a 5.3. It will take more boost to do it, but one way or the other the turbo will be moving about the same amount of air when maxed out regardless of engine size.
A good example, a small 50 trim on an average small block will usually spike its boost up early in the rpm range and then taper off as it runs out of steam. Itll be able to make about 450-500the hp. the same turbo on a 4 cylinder will continue to build boost as RPM rises but once its maxed out, it should still be around 450-500 hp. There are factors such as surge limit and head flow that might cause a smaller engine to make less power with the same turbo, but the differences between the 5.3 and 6.0 should be almost minute.
Something you have to realize is that a turbo is only capable of flowing so much air, so its not going to flow more air than its able being on a 6.0 rather than a 5.3. It will take more boost to do it, but one way or the other the turbo will be moving about the same amount of air when maxed out regardless of engine size.
A good example, a small 50 trim on an average small block will usually spike its boost up early in the rpm range and then taper off as it runs out of steam. Itll be able to make about 450-500the hp. the same turbo on a 4 cylinder will continue to build boost as RPM rises but once its maxed out, it should still be around 450-500 hp. There are factors such as surge limit and head flow that might cause a smaller engine to make less power with the same turbo, but the differences between the 5.3 and 6.0 should be almost minute.
Only reason I run a 6.0L over a 5.3L is I have a near 5000lb truck, and run on pump 91. I like the extra out of boost tq, and quick spool up at the track. I don't run a trans brake, and can start to spool as lights start counting down and still cut a bottom 1.4 60' with .00x reaction time. Another very important fact is if you took the E85 away most of the hot 4.8L, and 5.3L combos would have to run race gas. The larger engine making the power with less boost will take you farther on 91 oct.
07-21-2012, 11:33 AM
#38
I went 6.0 and picked one up for $1000 with 103k miles on it. They were pricey around my area. I wish I would have just done a simple H/C/n2o setup though, lol. This build is nickle and dime'n me to death. Would have had a running car 3 months ago if I would have stuck with my guns. Oh well, should be worth it in the end.
Take your time and research ****.
07-21-2012, 12:21 PM
#39
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^^^^This is very true.
Only reason I run a 6.0L over a 5.3L is I have a near 5000lb truck, and run on pump 91. I like the extra out of boost tq, and quick spool up at the track. I don't run a trans brake, and can start to spool as lights start counting down and still cut a bottom 1.4 60' with .00x reaction time. Another very important fact is if you took the E85 away most of the hot 4.8L, and 5.3L combos would have to run race gas. The larger engine making the power with less boost will take you farther on 91 oct.
Only reason I run a 6.0L over a 5.3L is I have a near 5000lb truck, and run on pump 91. I like the extra out of boost tq, and quick spool up at the track. I don't run a trans brake, and can start to spool as lights start counting down and still cut a bottom 1.4 60' with .00x reaction time. Another very important fact is if you took the E85 away most of the hot 4.8L, and 5.3L combos would have to run race gas. The larger engine making the power with less boost will take you farther on 91 oct.
